mad082

LOL korbats, you forgot to add which nigerian prince used to own this character.

no it doesn't. only for ps3

if you put the legs on like i suggested you could always just drill some holes in the base and have a small dowel that acts like a stopper that you can just pull out and move into a different hole to adjust the height. it would also mean that you can leave the bolts in the legs loose enough that if you want to hop up off the couch you can just lift the wheel up a bit and get up, then when you sit back down it will go back to the exact same spot.

i do, pm me your email adress and i'll send it to you.

you can turn the sensor on the throttle which will adjust the voltage the tps is sending to the ecu.

in a perfect world you might get 10 or 15% worse fuel economy on LPG, but more often than not it will be about 30% worse (which is about what you are getting), so the actual savings per L of LPG take a hell of a long time to cover the cost of the conversion if you don't do a lot of kms. as for the ecu reset, the amount that the ecu learns is very little, and without it still using petrol it will be using very little of the small amount that it does learn. the simplest way to explain the self learn on an ecu is to say it's like a calculator. you can make it do all sorts of calculations and save stuff in the memory, but at the end of the day, even if you reset it, 1+1 will always equal 2.

Looks good man. if i could make a suggestion though, i'd put some sort of brace on the uprights to stop there being any chance of the top bit sliding dropping down. you could just have them so they hold it at the right height and swing up out of the way

Went in to see my mate at harvey norman today. told him about gt5 being delayed. he hadn't heard tey. he went and asked the big boss who confirmed it and also said that his money was on it not making it to shelves till january. don't think he has any inside knowledge, think that's just his guess. lets hope he's not right

check the spark plugs. possibly a bit fouled up. also do a search on how to clean the IAC and AAC valves. they are probably part of the problem as well.

why not look at a set of GTR injectors? they are top feed and from memory 440cc, but for 300kw may be getting close to making out, so i'd look at 600cc ones mentioned above

when you load up datascan with the consult plug in and just go to the main gauges screen you will see a heap of boxes down the bottom of the page. they will be green and red (i think) and should also have text next to them. one of them should say neutral on. this should change to off when you put it into gear here's a pic i just found. the neutral one is the top of the second column

what do you mean by not turning over? do you mean not firing? because that is totally different to not turning over. not turning over means you turn the key and nothing happens. if this was followed by it finally firing and blowing smoke then i'd say head gasket. if it was turning over but firing then it is a different issue.

there are a suprising amount of mitsubishi parts on a lot of cars. it doesn't mean the cars were made by mitsubishi, just some of the parts were. the mitsubishi bov is nothing rare. pretty sure a wrx i put a front mount and new bov on had one as well. and i had a festiva that had a mitsubishi made throttle body on it. as for the flutter, did you change the vaccum line that runs from the bov to the plenum? if yes, that is more than likely the cause of the flutter. if you went to a skinnier hose then it isn't able to suck the air out of the bov quick enough to allow it to open fast enough.

honda f20c

the fuel pump priming only means that fuel is getting to the injectors, doesn't say what pressure it is at or whether the injectors are actually firing. if you have a problem with something like the crank angle sensor then it will stop both the spark and the fuel. the easiest way to check the spark is to remove a spark plug from the motor, leave it in the coil pack, earth the bottom of it against the engine and have someone turn the car over. you should see a spark arcing across the gap of the spark plug. before doing this it is best to unplug the injector loom at the front of the plenum as you don't want it to be pumping in fuel with no spark plug to block the hole. if you have a spare spark plug then you can put this back in the motor and leave the injector loom plugged in.

if it is starting fine when cold but then dying when it gets hot it may possibly be an issue with the coolant temp sensor. next time it dies try unplugging the coolant temp sensor (2 wire plug on the top radiator hose where the hose goes onto an alloy housing). if it starts straight away then you know it's the coolant sensor. i have a feeling people have also had issues like this when the fuel cap or breather hose or something like that has been playing up and you get a vaccum in the fuel tank, and after a while the vaccum in the tank stops fuel from pumping. once the car has been able to sit for a while the vaccum pressure drops and it will run again. i used to have this problem with my old whippersnipper all the time. simply removing the fuel cap and putting it back on would temporarily solve the problem, until the vaccum got strong enough again to cause the same problem.

no it shouldn't affect the car starting as it is purely a warning light. the car not starting will be either a fuel or spark issue. fuel side could be caused by a dodgy fuel pump, low fuel pressure or injector issue (or wiring to fuel pump or injectors). ignition side it could be dodgy coilpacks, ignitor (is series 1), spark plugs or crank angle sensor, or again, wiring for any of those items. could possibly also be a AFM issue.

post a pic so we can see exactly what you mean. you may be able to sand it with fine sand paper to get the light smooth and then a bit of polish to make it clear again. i used meguires scratch-x on headlights and it worked great. other people have used other products and found them to work well too.

no that is the cat temp sensor. usually comes on when the sensor is shagged (or the wire to it). if it comes on when the car is cold then you know that the sensor is faulty of the wire is damaged. cutting the wire (or unplugging it if you can be bothered finding the plug under the passenger seat) is the best solution.

well it seems that the actual reasons have been due to having to upgrade the game to run on the more secure 3.50 firmware (forced to do so by sony) and then they took a bit longer than expected to do so and missed the start of the production window by 3 days.

gt5 will also require 3.5 to run, so no jail broken ps3 will run GT5

you will find that there is actually some registered in australia despite technically not being legal. possibly somehow brought in and complianced as a 2.5L (i'm just guessing), but there is indeed at least 1 rb20 powered 34 on this forum and i know of a rb20E powered r33 in gympie.

did he contact them to borrow or to hire? if it was to hire them then you can understand it, but if it was to simply get dropped off in them for free there could be nothing they could do about it as you aren't gaining finacially from it. i'd like to see them wait at some of the formals round here though. people get dropped off in fire trucks, police cars, ambulances, etc. would be interesting conversation to hear them trying to book a police officer (yes i know that he actually could).

you could just use some liquid nails to stick the timber there. or get some concrete and make a bit of a ramp. just leave a gap at the back or put a bit of pipe under it to allow water to flow past better.

how much do you want to spend? do you want to have to upgrade fuel injectors and AFM? are you planning on running an aftermarket ecu?