mad082

and unless you spend all your time above 5000rpm then the 3" is just a waste of time and will attract unwanted attention from cars with disco lights on the roof.

idle temps will be rather low because there is little air going into the cylinder and only a small amount of fuel. the actual explosion is only small so there isn't that much heat generated from it.

on a NA 95 octane should be fine. any misfires on 95 won't be from the octane rating. might be from the quality of fuel, but not the octane. you could also try backing the timing off a bit if you are worried. japan's octane ratings are the same as ours, they just happen to have one that is even higher, but they still have 91 and 95 octane fuels over there from what i gather.

Anyone know the maroon r33 that crashed last night? think someone was killed in the accident

personally i'd go with the genuine water pump. i'm not against non genuine stuff, but certain stuff i would stick genuine.

you can just disconnect the coil pack loom and injector loom, or the CAS (or all 3 if you want to be sure). when you are putting your turbo onto the new motor, before you connect the oil return line crank it over until oil comes out of the turbo. then connect up the oil return line.

1: how many factories have cars with that much power in RWD cars these days? not many, and those that are are generally quite a few hundred kgs heavier than most fwd cars. fwd cars don't need as much power to be fast since they are light to start with. also in 1970 there was a 400hp oldsmobile that was fwd. 2: fair enough 3: have you ever seen a 4wd F1 car? nope 4: i'm guessing you have never driven a decent FWD car and like rwd cars so you can do fully hektic skids to impress your boyfriend and/or 12 year old girls.

ok, firstly, GT5 has a penalty system. ram cars too hard and you get a penalty. sure it isn't a drive through, but there is still a penalty. as for no rev limiters, well pretty much all the cars in GT5 do have rev limiters in real life, so taking them away would be making it less realistic. also a lot of cars will take a suprising amount of bashing on the rev limiter without blowing up. pretty sure GT5 damage will have things like altering wheel alignment from what i'm told.

i assume you are talking about the type m kit? m spec is a version of the r34 GTR. as for what it's worth, depends on the buyer. one person may offer you $50 for the lot, another $500

a mechanic mate of mine rings me up for help on skylines, LOL. he knows i spend most of my day on here so if he wants wiring diagrams or fuse box translations, etc he rings me up to get me to look for them.

pfft, traction control doesn' really count as an assist. the real cars had it till 2 years ago, lol

don't want to burst your bubble, but the plugs come pre-gapped at 0.8mm (unless they have -11 on the end of the part number which means they are the 1.1mm gap), so they didn't really do a thing.

metal intakes give a different noise due to the different properties of the steel/alloy they are made out of, in a similar way that stainless steel exhausts can sound different to mild steel exhausts, due to thinning piping, etc.

something tells me they are. i have a feeling that s1 are the same as rb20, like the coils are, but i think they can be swapped over easily. i think there is only 1 wire different

does it die if you lift off slowly? if only when lifting off quickly then i'm guessing that not having the resonator box is causing a fluctation of air when you lift off, which is making the AFM think there is more air going through it than there actually is, and therefore it's adding in more fuel which is making the car stall. pretty much the same principle as when people put atmo bovs onto RB engines. EDIT: i just looked at the pics, yeah you will need the AAC line hooked back into the plenum. without it the AAC is useless and the ECU has no way of controlling the idle.

there are plenty of places that have the parts, but i can't think of too many places to try (it's friday arvo, my brain went home at lunch). just jap should have the timing belts, water pumps, etc. if the engine you have bought has been sitting for a while, make sure you put in fresh oil and filter, then do it again after a few weeks. old oil can turn to sludge a little bit. may also be worth getting the inectors cleaned while they are easier to get to (if the new engine came with it's own plenum).

when you say 'dieseling', do you mean that you turn the key off and it continues to run? if so, that's a bad sign. it means you either have a short in the electronics somewhere that isn't telling the ignition and fuel to stop, or you have seriously leaking injectors and possibly have hot spots in the cylinder that are igniting the fuel (generally the cylinder temps won't be hot enough to keep igniting fuel). the missus old datsun stanza used to suffer from 'run on' only after giving it a thrashing and the engine got really hot (hot enough to continue the ignite the fuel at idle). i'd be taking it back to where you got the injectors put in. maybe they damaged an O-ring in the process and it is causing the leak, or possible one of the injectors is faulty. if this is the case then there is potention for serious damage to occur. the last thing you want to do is to try to start a car with a substantial amount of fuel in the cylinder

is there a bung under the carpet in skylines?

the 34 is a heavier car (but not that much heavier), and the handling has been refined from that of the 32. it will feel different to the 32. whether it is better or worse is purely a matter of opinion. you may like it more, you may prefer the feel of the 32. where the 34 will feel better is in the power department. it should be noticably faster than your 32.

oh and not long now. only about 5 weeks

wanting the DNF stuff i sort of understand, but i think they have to draw the line somewhere. i know that i would epicly rage quit if i was doing one of the 24 hour races and with only a few laps left to go one of the AI cars ran into me and i couldn't finish the race. also you'd get online races where someone might just get in a big yank tank and just ram everyone off the road and win because they are the only car still able to drive. or in a race against f1 cars you'd simple race in a normal car and just sit on the inside of a corner making the AI cars swerve around you and get stuck in the sand or clip wheels and they would all be out. so you could win races against f1 cars in a suzuki swift. you have to remember that it is just a simulator and not real life racing on a computer, otherwise they'd need to strap you into some machine where if you have a high speed crash it breaks some of your bones or kills you. what will be interesting to see is whether damage costs money to fix, and whether when fixing you can chose what bits to fix, so if you only have panel damge which doesn't affect performance, if you can simply leave it and not fix it until you have more money.

it may be a damaged solder inside the unit. if you happen to know someone with a s2 r33 who will let you borrow the AFM to try out is going to be the best solution. also don't bother looking at the o2 sensor when trying to diagnose the problem. it does next to nothing and the car can be driven without it even being hooked up (i did for a few months). your fuel economy just won't be as good.

you will find that part of the reason why fwd cars are kept lower powered is that gearboxes and drive shafts of fwd cars are generally weaker than rwd cars unless you spend big bucks on getting straight cut gears, etc. as for the issue of fwd causing more loss of traction, if you start to get understeer in a rwd car (or are even just approaching the grip threshold of the front tyres), using the accelerator will cause more understeer, just like a fwd car. the only difference being that loss of traction during acceleration will cause oversteer, however the amount that it causes will vary. fwd have the key advantage that they allow you to correct oversteer when braking/cornering better than rwd cars. in a rwd car you can only use the steering to try and catch it. in a fwd car you can use both steering and acceleration to catch it (like in the video i posted above). i've owned many fwd and rwd cars over my time, done plenty of silly things in both. if you adapt your driving style to suit what you are driving then they are equally fast and fun. the only advantage from a performance point of view that the rwd has over a fwd is getting off the line as weight transfer aids the rwd with getting traction off the line.

exactly. you can have them set up the ecu so that you can put the afm and injectors in while the board is being done, then when you get the ecu back, just plug it in and it will drive fine.

depends on what turbo it is running, it may be a highflow. the engine has been rebuilt so the compression may be a bit higher. i'm also guessing it probably has some form of aftermarket ecu, especially since it says it has an extra injector (crude way of adding in more fuel). i'd say that it is entirely possible for it to be making 210kw at 11psi. only way to find out more would be to talk to the guy.