mad082

why do you say that? they are only 103kw at the fly wheel stock. that works out to be about 100hp at the wheels. also the missus pulsar with the 105kw version of the engine makes between 110 and 120hp at the wheels with full exhaust (depends on dyno).

reving in neutral is totally different to reving in gear while moving. the mapping used by the ecu is different for starters. so are the coils brand new as well as the spark plugs?

+1 for being fuel related. the fuel pump making noises is a good clue to that. the fuel pump won't start making funny noises if it is something to do with the AFM as the pump would just keep on doing it's thing. so as people have suggested, check fuel pressure, check fuel pump and possibly replace fuel filter. fuel pressure issue could be caused by either dodgy fuel pump or dodgy fuel pressure reg, or possibly even blocked fuel filter.

sounds like it's in limp mode. this can be caused by a dodgy afm. try unplugging the afm and see if it makes any difference to how the car runs. also try disconnecting the battery to reset the ecu. might also be worth checking the fault codes.

they reviewed it on good game last night. looks interesting, don't think it's for me though.

so you are only running stock boost levels? what other mods do you have? if it is stock boost and the rest of the car is pretty stock then it doesn't sound like you are hitting any sort of boost cut (as it generally doesn't result in a missfire in the skylines). it sounds more like either your coils are stuffed, or your spark plugs are, or both. how old are the spark plugs, and do you know what type, gap and heat range they are?

i wasn't saying that it will alter compression, i was saying that it removes the spark plug from the chamber a little bit. yes it's SFA, but the more central to the chamber the spark plug is the better the burn will be. if you light a fire from the centre it will burn outwards and burn faster than if you start it at 1 side

the problem is that by using the fuel pressure to adjust the fuel you doing it in possibly the worst possibly way. lets say that at 3000rpm the fuel is right, but you need 10% more at 4000rpm and 15% more at 5000rpm and then need to take out 5% at 6000 rpm. how would you plan on doing that with a FPR? you can't. if you add in 10% more fuel then you are going to make it less powerful at 3000rpm and 6000rpm.

only do the cam covers if they are leaking, if not, don't touch them. also don't bother with the harmonic balancer unless yours is dodgy.

i used meguires scratch-x with a woolen buffing pad on the drill. takes like 10 seconds per light (takes you longer to get the drill, etc). advantage of scratch-x is that you can use it on the paint as well.

yeah it's supposed to put the open side of the spark closer to incoming air/fuel mix. there is 1 major flaw in this idea and that is that by the time the air has come into the cylinder, the valve has closed and the piston has then travelled all the way back up the bore and compressed the mix, the air is going to be all over the place so it's not going to do much at all. i reakon that you'd struggle to notice the difference even on a dyno. the reason being that by using washers (even small ones) to get the plugs pointing in the direction you want, you are removing the spark plug from the chamber a bit, so you may be slowing down the amount of time it takes for all the fuel to burn, and you want it to burn as fast as possible so it is expanding while the pressure is at its peak.

no and no for being straight plug in swap. ecu requires a few wires to be swithed around, as does the AFM. both will go in easily, but not straight swap. also unless your AFM is cactus, don't bother with the Z32 AFM as there is no point to it. you would be well short of maxing out the stock one.

they don't have the collectors edition on their site, and i'm guessing it wouldn't be that much cheaper than buying it from a local store once i add on the cost of postage (since postage is $15 and they are only $4 cheaper than shops here for the standard game). and then if there is anything wrong with the game i have to post it back, rather than just driving to where i bought it. and i would get it quicker through my local store. i'd also hazard a guess that they are losing a few dollars on the game at that price. unless sony has changed the amount of mark up they put on games from back when i worked at a toy shop where a ps2 game that sold for $100 would wholesale at around $70 to $80 from memory.

you sure about that shaun? it could just have a dodgy CAS, LOL

yes it is. it is even ok to mix different RON fuels (provided your car is designed to run on the different ratings). so for example you have a car that runs on regular unleaded, you could put in regular 1 time, 98 the next and E10 the next and it shouldn't really make a difference. i do actually remember hearing once about some stupid law from back in the dark ages (so to speak) about it being illegal to mix different fuels. basically that it was illegal to fill up from different fuel stations. just one of those stupid laws like how it's illegal to reverse onto a road (so reversing out of your driveway is actually illegal, as is reversing out of nose in angle parking spaces)

i have heard of these places too, LOL seriously though, if you find someone selling a set of tyres with a decent amount of tread on them (highly unlikely for someone selling tyres by themselves for a set of 19's) and they happen to be in the eastern states, by the time you pay freight to get them, you probably won't be too far off getting a set of cheap new tyres from your local tyre shop. and why do you want cheese cutter width tyres? clearance issues?

depends on the gearing though. while you can get back into better torque values, the speed that the car accelerates in the lower gear can cancel this out. in higher gears where you are spending time at the high rpm for a longer period of time this is more where you may want to shift earlier. in the case of first gear though (and second to a lesser extent), it revs up so quickly that the time it is spent past peak power outweighs being at a slightly thicker part of the torque curve. and since the OP is only talking about 0-100kmh then we don't need to bother much about the higher gears, which is why i also made the comment about whether or not it will do 100kmh in 2nd or not, because changing out of 2nd at 6500rpm will produce a slower time than reving out that last 1000rpm to get over 100kmh. this is actually the reason why in the early 90's the manual falcons were slower in 0-100kmh than the manual commodores, but were faster over the 1/4 mile. second gear in the falcon maxed out at just under 100kmh and the commodore was just over 100kmh. then it comes down to how the car revs out as well. if the car had stock exhaust then it would start to choke at well below redline so even reving out first would be a waste of time. but the car in question is stated as having extractors and a 3" system, so it should rev out to redline reasonably well.

mad-082

there is a chance that they might not even know. the truck that turns up to fill up the tanks may be the same as their brand and they may pay the company they are branded, but it is simply shipped out from another brands refinery. as for different brands giving different performance, etc, a lot of it can come down to the individual servos, as well as what day you get fuel. some servos tanks are in better condition that others. if you get fuel and the tanks have been recently refilled then there will be more crud floating around in the fuel as it hasn't had time to settle to the bottom. or if the tanks were filled the night before and you are 1 of the first people to get fuel in the morning then you may suck up some of the crap that has settled around the pick up and hasn't been sucked away yet. i have noticed what appears to be different fuel economy from different fuels, if i go off how many kms i do for the gauge to get to a certain point, however once i actually calculate it properly it isn't much different because different pumps seem to fill up to a slightly different level, so if i get an extra 1 or 2L in the filler neck of the tank then i will get an extra 10 or 20kms out of the first 1/4 of a tank. however if you then change servos it can then make the last tank of fuel's economy look either really good or really bad (or the same) depending on how different it is at saying the tank is full. ah crap, i just realised that i have to drive 400kms on the weekend and will need to get fuel before i go and it's the first weekend of the holidays so getting fuel is going to be a nightmare.

you see now after reading what you have said about what you are classing as hig powered rb's i sort of have to laugh a bit. especially the bit about your extremely mildly modded rb25 being a rb20 eater. sure it probably beats relatively stock rb20's. hell i had a stock v6 magna (with just a catback exhaust) that would beat relatively stock rb20 turbos. all of the motors you have listed wouldn't have enough power to get the car to low 14's or high 13's, which a lot of turbo rb20's will do. how do i know this? i have a mate who had a rb30 powered 31 that did run high 13's (was still only a single cam head). the list of mods was much much longer than yours and included a butt load of headwork, twin throttle bodies, custom plenum, lightened flywheel, crank work, raised compression, rb26 oil pump, bloody big cam, big injectors and it reved to 8000rpm. this thing was an absolute pig to drive on the street (locked diff and button clutch didn't help either). i'm also pretty sure that at the drags he didn't run it on pump fuel either. now back to 'chips'. you first stated about getting a chip off tradme. well the problem is that generic 'chips' are just that. generic. they will maybe give you 1% more power if you are lucky, and certainly aren't worth the money. there is also a chance that it will rob you of power or damage the engine. getting the ecu remapped or an aftermarket ecu will give you more power, but if that mod alone you will still only get maybe 10kw out of it if done well. and you don't need to play around with fuel pressures until you get close to maxing out the stock injectors. if you raise the fuel pressure without a programable ecu you will actually lose power rather than gaining it. stock ecu's run richer than they need to as it is safer to be richer than leaner. if you lean things out then you will make more power, up to a point.

an aftermarket ecu will help you. but ultimately there is only so much that you can do to the car without spending big bucks, and if you are the weakest link in chain then fixing you is the easiest way to drop the times. reving out to 7000rpm or 7500rpm will drop the times a bit as even though power is dropping off you will still accelerate faster in 1st gear than in second. also not sure on the gear ratios of the natros, but the turbos will do over 100kmh in 2nd, as will the natro sr20's (the missus pulsar will do about 110kmh in second). tyres can make a difference. grippier tyres will allow you to get a better launch. also make sure you have the correct pressure in them. lower in the rear will give you better grip off the line, but after that it slows you down. too low in the front will slow you down from the moment you start moving. if you have stiff suspension, such as coil overs, then that will be slowing you down as well because you can't get off the line as quick with stiff suspension. you will get more wheel spin.

that's only the basic version, not the collectors edition. and you have to buy a wheel to get it. so while i may be paying $60 more for the game, my total outlay is only $130, not $475 more info revealed at the tokyo game show yesterday.

yeah but you like fatties, LOL

possibly an issue with the axle stub or the hub.

in every gear including 6th, LOL