mad082

i'm not sure if i still have it, but i used to have a motor magazine where they were at avalon airport or whatever it's called in victoria and they were testing out the top speed of a few cars. a lambo got to around 300kmh. they had some other exotics arranged but the person who was supposed to organise them wasn't able to deliver but they did have a 350kw r33 gtr turn up. test driver got it to close to 300kmh showing the car a small amount of mechanical sympathy. then the owner got in and managed to crack 300kmh. if doing this on a public road you would want to make sure that the road is in very good condition and nice and smooth. bumps that feel like nothing at 100kmh will feel a lot bigger at 3 times that speed. *wanders off to look through magazines for the article.

buy some pigeons. or a vl. or just take off your bov and feel the joy of lag on gear changes while you impress all the hektic kebab spec vl owners with your epic dose.

saw a gunmetal grey 34 4 door in gympie on saturday lunch time. was at the traffic lights in the centre of town heading north. had personalised plates but i didn't get a good enough look. were black with white lettering i think. had a car load of guys. sau sticker on the rear quater glass on the drivers side.

apparently you will need about 10gb on the hard drive to get the most out of gt5 as far as loading speeds go.

you need to pull the light assembly off and reapply the silicone that seals them to the body. the assembly can be hard to get off because the silicone makes it stick to the body.

pulsar group of australia is one of the aussie pulsar sites. give it a try. http://www.pulsar.org.au/

muffin i got a mate that does dodgy shit like this all the time. he's a wrecker. i'll give you his address. just ignore the big POLICE sign out the front and all the cop cars parked there, it's just a cover.

you'd be better off asking on the pulsar forums rather than the skyline forums. the 200sx bit threw me off for a second there when you started talking about gtir rear end and avenir boxes. over here the 200sx was the australian version of the silvia, which america got as the 240sx (although ours still kept the sr20 rather than the ka24). so as i said, try the pulsar forums, as the guys there will have a bit more info on the fwd/awd stuff. or have a look through a few american sites to see if you can find info.

if it was stuck fully open it would take longer than 20 mins to heat up (depending on driving/location, etc). in my old n14 i had the seal around the hole where the moving part of the thermostat disintegrate and it was only a 2mm gap or so and it was enough to make the car take ages to come up to temp.

yeah i know it's called pitch, but didn't want to confuse the fella too much lol. he might've though we had started talking about cricket.

yes there is a series 1 and 2 r34 (but the differences are minimal. no difference in performance, just cosmetic). there isn't really any model variations of the turbo versions of the gt-t. some may have a few different options, but that simply comes down to what options the original owner wanted

what craig said above is right. but he also should've pointed out that the 1.25 bit of it is what the thread spacing is. in this case it means the thread is spaced at 1.25mm apart. you will need to know this when your mate taps the thread into it.

i run the phillips power 2 night ones. they are a 50%+ bulb. i had to buy a new set the other day and they were only $45, but that was for H4's. the phillips blue vision are also good. i prefer the power 2 night though as they are a brighter light, but they are a fraction more yellow than the blue vision. they appear to be close to the narva power blue ones. they still give off a white light, but it isn't as white as the fully blue coated bulbs. but all of the fully coated bulbs always have a lower light output than partially coated or fully clear bulbs, and i'd rather be able to see where i am going than have some fully sick ricer globes.

yeah sounds like the thermostat isn't closing properly. best to replace it now before the weather heats up because then you may find that it also doesn't open wide enough on a hot day and the car will overheat.

why not 'sunrice' (brand of rice for those that don't know)

the speed limit comes down to what the maps were written as being. when i go down the coast mine says 1 stretch of road is 50kmh but it is actually 90. also the highway has been 90kmh for a few years now and it still says it's 100. i don't get warnings of school zones or speed limit changes on mine (some roads it shows the speed limit down the bottom and it will change when i hit a new speed zone, but no warning). i also get random warnings of "safety camera area". once got this warning in my driveway, LOL.

britney spears and nicki webster

here is a quick rundown on coil compatiability r32 and s1 r33 are the same r33 s2 are different to everything else r34 are different to everything else. i know that in the r32 and s1 r33 coils the gtr are the same as the gtst, gts, etc. i'm not sure about any of the rest.

baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahaha, love your work. to be somewhat helpful to the OP, yes the turbo can be removed, however you would be better of buying a hyundai excel as it will be faster, and i'm not joking. even a commodore with 2 million kms on the clock that is only running on 4 cylinders will be faster than it.

and batman................. wait a minute......

as above, the issue you are having has nothing to do with the bov, because the bov shouldn't really be opening much on the gear change in an auto unless you are one of those people who lift off as it changes gears to try and make it sound like you have a manual. the problem you have is with the gearbox. i'd start with a service on it and then a shift kit if you want.

the impul ecu is a generic tune, so you could put the pfc in, get it tuned properly and find that without changing anything else you pic up 10 or 20kw. or you may gain 2kw. it just depends on how well the tune on the impul suits your setup.

i haven't played many racing games with a wheel, so don't know what they are like. i played wrc and it's damage wasn't too bad. made the car pull to one side if you crashed. i don't know how many racing games the guy at harvey norman had played with a wheel but he liked the fact that not only did the car handle differently, but the force feedback wheel also would sit crooked after a crash as well. so other games may do it as well, but as i said, i don't know, and i'm not sure about his experience.

the r33 ecu is only able to be remapped by a few people because a new chip has to be burnt and installed into the ecu. using a z32 ecu with a nistune you essentially end up with full aftermarket ecu that can be tuned by a lot of people (even yourself if you have the nistune software, a consult cable and a laptop)

Was talking to a guy at harvey norman yesterday. He had been to a conference and played the demo version of gt5. Said the damage is really good. He said that if you hit a wall and bend the steering then the wheel will actually pull to the side and shake, etc. Also release date here is nov 2