mad082

hmmmm, things idiots say about skylines.......... how about "i raced a new 6.0L commodore in my dead stock r32 gts-t and shat all over it. they backed off at 60kmh cause i was already winning.........."

ok, no the cams can't be seen by the cops. this picture indicates where they are in the engine then once you pull those covers off it looks like this. the arrows point to the 2 cams and here is how a cam shaft works http://www.howstuffworks.com/camshaft.htm

more info on the collectors edition. going off that, anyone who has put their name down for the collectors edition thinking they will get a model GTR is going to be a bit upset

they would've only charged you an extra $160 at most (if it was a V8) for the extra 4k they added to the value of the car. that isn't exactly a huge amount of money. so i'd just put the phone down, stop having a whinge, go buy the car and pay whatever is required when transferring the rego.

having owned 2 magnas, i would say go the 3.5L if possible. and if possible get a manual one as they are pretty fast as well (14.8 at willowbank with just a catback exhaust). i had no mechanical problems with mine despite them having a reasonably hard life (especially the first one). only downside to them is the turning circle is pretty shocking, and the front seats really need seat covers as the cover they have from standard is pretty ordinary and a bit coarse.

they are a piggy back ecu. depending on what version it is determines exactly what and how much you can tune it. the emanage ultimate will allow tuning of both timing and fuel and aren't a bad system to use (rather user friendly with the software setup). they are better than something like a SAFC. as for what mods will warrant having one, you would see gains on just a stock engine, however i wouldn't bother using one until you were upgrading turbos and/or injectors, etc. and even then it wouldn't be my first choice in ecu's.

the biggest difference between a 20 putting out 300hp and a 25 putting out similar power will be the low down power. the 25 will leave the 20 for dead in the lower rev range

pretty sure this is a no. from memory they have a different plug and are pretty different inside.

yeah you can just use a multimeter to check the voltage. the voltage should be around 0.45v when closed. this is pretty standard for a lot of nissans. pretty sure the sr20 is also the same. there will always be a slight variance though. i'm not sure exactly what the allowable margin is, but if yours is dramatically different then i'd have a play around with it. if i get time i'll have a look through some stuff i have and see if it says.

may possibly have to do with gearbox location and clearance. may come down to the gearbox manufacturer. it is just one of the many things in cars where there are multiple options and you have to wonder why. things like timing belt vs chain, different headlight bulb types, what side of the engine the exhaust is on, etc.

just had the cockhead from the other bike shop in telling me i should get a roady with ultegra instead of 105 because it's better. what a cockhead. yes it's better but for the amount of riding i will be doing it certainly isn't worth the extra $1500 it will cost me to get it, and there is pretty much zero noticable difference between the 2. 105 is pretty much ultegra from a year or 2 ago anyway, so it doesn't really matter.

exactly. there isn't really a 'better' option because there isn't an option at all. you just get whatever fits you car

i tried disconnecting the boost sensor once, made no difference to my boost cut issue because it is based off the AFM voltage. as for people saying that it is stupid to run higher boost without getting it tuned, it's pretty safe to do so. the AFR shouldn't lean out unless there is an issue with the fuel pump or something like that as the stock ecu is tuned from factory pretty rich. you will have more chance of doing damage with a tuned ecu than with the stock one. my 33 when running a fraction under where it would cut out (so about 12psi) was running about 10.5 or 11:1 AFR, so there was no issue with it leaning out. unlike a tuned ecu where you can put as much boost through it and it will just lean right out if you go off the mapping, the stock ecu will pack it in if you go off the mapping.

don't need to disconnect the battery first. just make sure that you change over the wires that need to be swapped when putting the z32 ecu in

didn't realise you were in WA where the restirctions are only just coming in. you'd be suprised how many dicks we get coming on here who buy a turbo skyline knowing that they can't drive it because they think you can simply pull the turbo off it and have it go like a NA.

not another one of these threads........... if you take the turbo off the engine and then don't rebuild the engine with higher compression pistons you will only make about 70hp and will have a skyline that is slower than a toyota echo/yaris and i'm not joking about that. sell the car and buy a natro one, or just buy a cheap car to use until you can legally drive it.

yeah the turbo models have a lower compression. i don't know much about the strength of materials used in the internals though. and yes ecu is different. the gearbox is also stronger on the turbo model. yes the k&n panel will be fine and i wouldn't bother too much about modding the intake piping. very little (if anything) to be gained from that unless you really start making big changes. i also have a feeling that the bmx wheels won't fit on the skyline as i think they are the same stud pattern as a commodore and the skyline is the same as a falcon.

yeah you are hitting the limit that the ecu will take and it is throwing a tantrum. only solution is to lower the boost. there isn't really a safe or easy way around it until you get the nistune. i had the same thing happening to me in my 33

1 thing i would check is the alternator with a multimeter. i've heard of funny things happening with lights when the voltage regulator stuffs up and starts to over charge the battery.

mum's corolla is a pain for this also. i find that, as has been said above, changing the angle of the noxxle helps.

i had an ea falcon (the worst of them) and in the 2 years i owned it i had the bonnet up less than the 18 months i owned my 33. only problem i ever had with the falcon was a head gasket and the leads needed replacing due to old age.

sell the car and buy a NA version. as iseekool said, a turbo engine running without the turbo will put out much less power than the NA version. i'm guessing it would be somewhere around 40 to 50kw at the wheels. in all seriousness a 1.3L car will more than likely be able to beat you in a race. it will be beyond being "not fun" to drive. it will be dead set shocking to drive. you really should've done some research before buying the car.

brendan, you may want to try altering the angle you pedal at to see if that helps at all. by that i mean try pointing your toes down or up a bit and see if that helps with your knee strength.

i've got a racing seat office chair at home, i just need the wheel setup and i can weld up a frame. don't see the missus letting me buy a wheel setup though.

mate of mine has limited use on his old 1940's harley. it's limited to a number of kms. something like 4000kms a year, or maybe it's only 400kms, or something like that, but i know it's not much, but it's not the sort of bike you would ride far anyway. it's a bit of a collectors item.