mad082

will this be compatiable with my dragon? no? ok then screw you spammer

go to your local exhaust place and tell them you want a nice big decent quality oval muffler. will be cheaper than a full system and probably be quieter than half of them.

+1 for nistune

box has to come out unless you have the hands of a 3 year old but with the strength of an adult. and if you don't have a hoist it is a bit of a pain to do (i found out the hard way). you only need to lower the gearbox enough to be able to work in it, so it can be done with just the car jacked up, but it isn't the easiest

no, you haven't seen how we treat people, you have seen how we treat idiots who have no grasp of the mechanical aspect of a car, or physics, which in this case just happens to be you. LOL

baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahaha. noooooo the gear ratio has absolutely nothing to do with the speed a car does at a certain revs. epic troll is epic

he might've only been doing the speed limit because his clutch is totally stuffed and is so stupid that doing 6k in 5th gear at 100kmh wasn't enough of an indication that there was an issue.

getting slightly off topic now, but aussie cars will take a thrashing just as well as nissans do. look at how many junked out old vn's, etc are still going with over 300,000kms on the clock and getting thrashed by young idiots who usually do very little in the way of maintenance. on topic though, just treat it with respect like you would any other car that you cherish. they aren't some super spectacular motor (depsite how a lot of people on this forum make them out to be). just regular servicing, not thrashing the arse out of it then pulling up straight away without letting it cool down first, use decent quality parts, etc.

it's all done during business hours because i'm bored.

cherie is getting one of these (womens specific road bike) then i'm going to order 2 of the mens version of this. 1 for myself and 1 to strip all the parts off to put on cherie's bike and all the parts off cherie's bike onto this so she can have a bike running 105 10 speed but with the pink and white frame, LOL

just because it's clean doesn't mean the kms are genuine. i've seen immaculate grandpa spec commodores with over 300,000kms on the clock.

how far from work do you live? lol

+1 for not putting a GTR badge on your car. it will just make you look stupid to other skyline owners and a large portion of other car enthusiasts who know that a GTR isn't in fact a 4 door non turbo. as for motor internals, as said above, they are different to the turbo models. for power they put out, it's generally around the 110kw at the wheels but will vary from car to car and dyno to dyno (they are 147kw at the flywheel). they are only really as fast as a 6 cylinder commodore or falcon (a touch slower if you have an auto).

the ecu is only as good as the person tuning it. if the tuner is good with wolf ecu's then it will be better than a pfc tuned by some halfwit.

you will easily get 10,000kms out of a set of copper plugs. should get 15,000kms out of them if your coilpacks aren't dead/dying. no point spending the extra money on irridiums. the set i pulled out of my 33 were dead after about 20,000kms.

i wouldn't trust those 5,500kms as far as i could throw it. also i wouldn't buy it if they were genuine kms either as there is a good chance that a lot of things will have stuffed up from not being used. a lot of seals will dry out, go hard and then leak. possible rust inside the engine if any moisture has gotten in and not had the engine running to circulate oil or heat up to get rid of the oil. or the wheels have only turned 5,500kms but the engine has done a lot more hours due to sitting in traffic.

any exhaust shop will be able to make you one up for a decent price. may even be something that they can order in as a complete.

why didn't you buy a pair of globes? that way you could've ruled out any issue with the globes being different type. also try swapping the globes from 1 side to the other. if the side that was bright is still bright then you know it isn't to do with the globe and it's a wiring issue. if the globe that was bright is still bright despite being in the other light then you know you have different types of lights.

it's easy to spot the nerd in this thread, LOL. anyone who is willing to line up ad midnight to get a game needs to get a life. i probably won't even get it in the first day. it will be the weekend after it's released that i get it.

here's how you can smoke your tyres without removing the drive shaft 1: remove tyres from car 2: cut up tyres with a jigsaw 3: put pieces of tyre in a blender 4: roll tyre crumbs in tally-ho paper 5: smoke tyres as much as you like

ok a few things. 1: it wasn't aquaplaning, it was just plain wheelspin caused by dodgy tyres and possibly some contaminant on the road or even a man hole cover and having the accelerator floored. 2: the reason it went sideways (even though you were driving straight) probably had little to do with the wheel alignment and more to do with the diff and any camber in the road 3: jumping on the brakes is the worst thing you can do when a car is sideways. the best thing to do is to simply lift off the accelerator. it has very little to do with weight transfer, etc, but more to do with the fact that the front wheels have traction and the rears don't, so if you apply the brakes when the arse is hanging out then the front of the car will slow down and the rear of the car will simply overtake the front and you'll end up pointing the wrong way. watch topgear, etc and you will hear them talking about lift off oversteer on the fwd cars. it is the same principle. have the weight shifting in the car sideways then lift off the accelerator resulting in a braking force being applied to the front wheels but not the rear and the rear will step out.

actually it isn't. all it does is thin the grease a bit, just like how petrol or even oil will. it is actually a water dispersant. that is what the W and D stand for (well actually the D stands for displacement, but means pretty much the same thing) and the number 40 refers to it being the 40th formulation before being perfected. wd-40 is a jack of all trades, master of none. it isn't a very good lubricant, penetrant or pretty much any thing else it is supposed to be good at other than repelling water.

i am assuming you have some form of aftermarket management (nistune, or remap, etc). if so that may be part of the issue. was it definately working properly before the drag day? and was it definately working properly after the tune? it may be that when they did the tune they partly cancelled out some of the closed loop mapping and simply tuned it to run at the desired AFR when cruising.

i had the clutch fork pivot bolt break in my 33, but that resulted in the pedal shooting to the floor and staying there.

you might want to add some of these to your reliant robin