mad082

i'd guess that it's a primitive torque split controller, but instead of it being adjustable it is just an on/off type setup. so it may allow you to toggle between just rwd or normal awd mode. or it may be that it goes from working normally to having the front drive engaged regardless of the g-sensor reading.

that still makes it a pig as a daily.

t28bb is a bolt on job. unlike the girly ecu in the skylines which has a cry at about 12psi on the stock turbo, the s13 ecu will take 15psi from the bigger turbo without missing a beat. i know plenty of people doing it. infact my mates missus had one on her 180 before they put the rb25 in it. sr20 are timing chain motors, so no need for the big 100,000kms change like in the skylines. as for lack of ecu upgrades, as i said above, the stock ecu on them will handle much higher boost levels than the skyline ecu. a mate of mine had his wastegate actuator stop working on the sr20 in his sigma at powercruise a few years back. he did the most of the weekend with unlimited boost and the ecu never cutout once. of course the turbo was blowing a bit of smoke by the end of the weekend, but you get that running 30psi or so through a stock turbo.

i think you have me mistaken for eps, dumbass and if you want to monitor your AFR's just stick it on a dyno every 6 months or so. you should notice any issues with it starting to lean out as it won't feel like it normally does (like hanaldo said).

if you must have a rwd then get a natro s13. similar power and a lighter car. if you don't care so much about rwd then look at something like a SSS pulsar. natro sr20, lighter than both the s13 and r32, and good fun to drive and much less attention from the boys in blue. the missus has one, i owned it before her and we've had it for about 7 years now. never missed a beat, nice to drive, less dated looking interior (if you go an n15 version) and much easier to find a clean example of that hasn't been raped. they are great unless you are a drifter wannabe and want the rwd so you can go do hectik skids. only other downside is that you get a heap of morons telling you how shit fwd's are despite them never having driven one. simple fact is that if you can't drive a fwd car fast then your driving talent is dramatically lower than you think it is.

from what i understand, not really no. but then i've never closely looked into it, but i know people who have been booked for them

a little bit more on the track maker

all 180sx are s13's, even the very late model ones. that is why the engine is the same, despite having the black rocker cover. however plenty have had the 'real' black top motor transplanted into them. the difference in some of the prices on redbook will be down to 1 of 3 reasons. 1: early 180sx (pre 1991 i think) were CA18 powered and had an ugly front bar (often refered to as pig nose). 2: after that they went to the sr20 and a nicer front bar. more people want the sr20 and they are newer and generally tidier examples, but not always (like any car). 3: from about 95 or so onwards (can't remember exactly and too lazy to look it up) they went to the type x models which were basically just like a series 3 version. they changed the tail lights, the dash cluster (colour of needles) and put a black rocker cover on them. they are a bit more rare and also trick a lot of people into thinking that they have the same black top motor as the s14, so they go for a higher price. also i should point out that if you are worried about general day to day running costs, fuel economy wise the sr20 isn't much better than a rb25, especially if you like to give it the beans on a regular basis.

as above. the narrowband o2 sensor will read anything richer than about 14:1 as rich and anything leaner than about 15:1 as lean. they will read stoich as anything in the middle. yes people are right when they tell you that the air fuel gauges that hook into your factory o2 sensor aren't accurate. when you floor it it simply goes into the rich section of the gauge, even if the AFR is leaner than what you want (such as 13.5:1 at WOT). the only thing they are good for is telling you if your o2 sensor is working properly or not. and they look cool if you like flashy lights like i do, which is why i bought one back before i even knew the first thing about air/fuel ratios. i just wanted it because it had flashy lights. it could've been a gauge to tell me what the air condition was doing and i probably would've bought it at the time, LOL

yeah as been said above, take it easy when the car is still cold and don't boost it hard then just pull up and get out. personally i don't think you should even boost it hard then pull up and let it sit on the turbo timer as this doesn't cool it as well as driving sensibly for 30 seconds or so. you get more airflow through the radiator when moving than when idling, as well as it lets things like the brakes cool down a bit too if you have been hard on them as well.

ok, i've owned a 180sx and a 33. they are different beasts. if going a 180sx then just get one with a sr20. the ca18's aren't a bad motor but they are generally getting a bit long in the tooth now and don't quite pack the punch of the 20. don't specifically go with a later model black top as the black top engines in the 180sx is just a red top with a black rocker cover. they didn't get a t28 turbo or anything like the s14 did. just find a tidy example in your price range and buy it. just stick a BB t28 on it and it will be a bit happier lower in the revs. with the stock bush bearing t25 they are a little bit laggy lower in the revs while the r33 will have plenty of go from much lower in the revs and will drive much more like your 34 did. the 180's are a bit rougher ride than the 33 is, and they have less down low. both are good for everyday use, but if the roads are crappy in your area then i'd go the 33. of course if you happen to get a 180sx with a 25 in it then you will have a lot of fun. i'm not sure if my mates missus is still trying to sell her 180sx with a 25 in it. i'll have to ask her.

ok so gamescon is on at the moment and lots of info has come out. i will just give a quick summary. for more indepth go to http://www.gtplanet.net 1: japan is getting a bundle pack of gt5 (basic collectors edition) and a limited edition titanium blue console. release date for japan is nov 3 2: skidmarks 3: don't think there will be any car graphics editor 4: track editor is just that. it seems to be an editor rather than outright creator. you just sort tweak tracks 5: changing light and weather not on all tracks on gt plantet they have videos from the new monza track as well as go-karting.

i don't know anyone going to jambo, but i got a bunch of mates going to powercruise.

no it doesn't. the reason why NA cars need smaller diameter exhausts isn't because of a need for backpressure. this is a myth. the reason they need smaller tubing is all about exhaust gas velocity and the scavenging/syphoning effect that happens. backpressure is a byproduct of smaller tubing and is bad for both turbo and NA engines.

well actually technically it is right because you do start to lose power. the peak power it puts out may be the same or a bit higher than the smaller exhaust but the low down power will start to drop, which means you have lost power. it really comes down to what sort of driving you do. if you do a lot of track days and want it to be a bit of a dyno warrior (well as much of a dyno warrior as a NA skyline can be.....) and don't mind a bit of police attention then go a nice big 2.75 or 3" system. just remember that it will start to become a bit of a slug in the lower rpm so you may want to use 2nd gear in the 50kmh zones if there are any hills, lol.

i have a garmin that i got from dicksmith a while back for about $160. works well.

as long as they are r32 and r33 (i think just series 1) gtr coils they will work. as will s1 r33 gts-t

2.5" exhaust (even just one made by a local exhaust shop) will be fine, and as for computer, get a 300zx ecu and put a nistune board in it.

+1, and then take a video of you racing an old granny in a yaris and her kicking your arse

i had a similar issue with my laptop where during anything with a high memory usage (such as playing games) it would shut down. it was an overheating issue due to the heatsink being full of dust and fluff so airflow was dramatically reduced. when playing games, etc the fan was always roaring. even just using photoshop made the fan roar. cleaned out the heatsink and it's all quiet again and haven't had any issues with overheating or switching off. also when i got this current computer off my brother the fan was loud to start with so i cleaned the heatsink as it was moderately dirty. made it run a bit quieter. whether that is the same problem as you are having i don't know, but it would be worth opening the box up and just seeing if the heatsink is clean and the fan is able to get enough airflow through it to keep it cool

i bet they aren't noticing your car out of interest for it though.

your speedo was out because of the tyres, and they certainly won't let you off the fine because of that because the tyre size has been increased more than the legal limit (which is only 15mm bigger in vic, and i'm pretty sure that the stock tyres for a hilux are only about 30", so you are 50mm bigger). unfortunately you are screwed if you do get the fine in the mail because you were speeding due to illegal modifications. unforetunately the old "i bought it like this and it had a RWC" won't help you much. RWC's aren't so much a certificate of legality of a vehicle but of the general safety of the vehicle. also the seller may have put smaller tyres on to get the RWC and then put the 32's back on after it was done. my mate is a mechanic who does RWC's and he takes pictures of every car that he does for that exact reason so if someone buys a car and then comes to complain he can show them how the car was when he did it.

when my pivot bolt broke it cost me 90 cents to fix but 3 hours of my time lying under the car (broke in the garage and my mechanic mate was away at the time so had no access to a hoist.

damn, a bit hard to start an argument off that.

the amount that it gets diluted it's not worth thinking about though. but in case you wanted to think about it..... fill 1: 50L of fuel put in. for arguments sake we'll say it's a 50L of fuel and was drained prior to filling fill 2: filled up with 10L left, so there's 40L fresh fuel and 10L 1 week old fuel fill 3: filled up with 10L left, so now there's 40L fresh, 2L from fill 1 and 8L from fill 2 fill 4: filled up with 10L left, so now there's 40L fresh, 400ml from fill 1, 1.6L from fill 2 and 8L from fill 3 fill 5: same as above but now the 10L consists of 80ml of fill 1, 320ml from fill 2, 1.6L of fill 3 and 8L of fill 4. so when you look at it like that, 40L is from the current fill, 8L is only 1 fill old and the remaining 2L is 2 fills or older and the stale fuel from fill 1 is going to be negligable (only 400mls of fuel in the tank is from 3 or more fills ago). the amount of fuel that is multiple fills old is always going to be small even if you will up with more than 10L to go. but theoretically speaking the fuel tank still contains an extremely tiny amount of fuel from the very first time it was filled up.