mad082

the 4 speed autos are a pretty tall geared car, so they are no racer in the traffic light grand prix, but they aren't too bad.

How is the issues u are having to do with the game? wouldn't they more be to do with the server that you are logging on to. or possibly your connection at your ISP's end? or maybe it is other people you are racing against having issues that is screwing up the race.

The sony update has already been released a few days ago. you can't log into they playstation network without installing the update, so already the usb stick hack is useless, or so i gather

spotted, r32 gts-t out the front of my shop. and i think the owners mate just snapped the key off in the passenger side door. and for some reason thinks that the nearest locksmith or at least key cutting place is in a shopping centre a bit from here, despite the fact that there a key cutting place next to my shop, and a locksmith about about 100m up the street. i'll go and see if they need any help soon. they aren't near the car at the moment EDIT: they seem to get it sorted.

well it can only go 1 of 3 ways. the correct way is to have the tube that the hose connects to pointing fowards. if you took notice of the hose you would see that the hose will only reach when it's in 1 position. unless you are talking about the thermostat itself which goes with the shaft bit point inwards.

welcome. if you at least attempt to spell correctly you shouldn't have too much trouble on here. just remember that we aren't like boostcruising. we don't think ghetto gangster type spelling is cool. also things like doing an epic skid then doing 140kmh down the road when racing a commodore won't win you any friends round here either. so as long as your brain is switched on while you are here then you shouldn't have any worries. and just make sure to at least search things before you start a thread. there is a good chance anything you want to ask has been asked at least 5 times before hand.

i like the original games.

probably coming in around the tail light. you will probably find that your tail lights also have water in them. i had a similar problem. pulled the tail lights off, resealed them and put them back in and bob's your aunty, no more water in the boot.

possibly blaming a poor network connection on the GT5 prologue game

that just reminded me that i have a Gran Turismo 3 t shirt up stairs that i got when i worked at toyworld and gt3 was released. hmmm now i can't remember whether i have 1 or 2. i know i have a red one but i have a feeling i got a blue one as well........

hmmm, joins yesterday to ask a question in the computer section, then his second post is saying he found a solution and a link to the app. smells spammy to me

your best bet would be to put it on a dyno and check the afr's. that will tell you for sure if it's R&R or not. if the power is dipping but afr's aren't changing much then you know it isn't R&R. the fact that it is still doing it in warmer weather makes me think it isn't so much R&R but something else. when i had my 33 i used to only get R&R on very cold mornings and i could always make it do it at certain times of the day in similar temps. on warmer days i couldn't get it to do it at all. but then it also comes down to whether the R&R is being triggered by a faulty AFM or something like that since it has changed from how it used to be. even things like cleaning the AFM may help with diagnosing the problem.

back in the late 80's or early 90's the volvo race cars were station wagons because they had a lower CD than the sedans. how sleek a car is has little to do with CD as turbulance can dramtically affect it.

take a lot of work to get it sorted. would only really be any good if you had a crashed car to take all the parts out of. basically the whole engine bay will need to be rewired, including headlights, etc.

R&R usually gets worse in winter, and isn't as bad in hotter weather. there may possibly be an issue with the AFM, coil packs or spark plugs. of course swapping in a different ecu will tell you whether it's ecu related however if it still does it it doesn't rule out other possible causes. what is the actual problem you are having? is it a missfire? if it is then the first thing i would do is check the gap on the plugs if you aren't sure what the gap is, or reduce the gap on the plugs (especially if they are a 1.1mm gap). if that makes the problem go away then you don't have R&R, you have weak coils/spark plugs.

you don't really need to take the tank out to do it. if you get some fuel hose and one of the squeeze bulbs you use for outboard motor fuel lines then you can simply open the tank via the boot and syphon out the crap (the squeeze bulb saves the need for sucking on the fuel line). then just simply use it like a vaccum to suck up the crap at the bottom of the tank. obviously do it when the tank is low on fuel and have some fresh fuel to put in. also make sure the car has been sitting for a while to make sure the crap has settled to the bottom. may also be worth getting your injectors professionally cleaned afterwards.

baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahahahahahahahaha *wipes away tear aaaaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahaha

<facepalm> so many other things be coming into play there than aerodynamics. you could have a slightly sticking brake piston, poor wheel alignment, crappy wheel bearings, tight diff, etc. the gear ratios could also come into it because of how the engine responds when just left on compression braking. the higher the revs the more it will slow down when you lift off. the width and tread pattern of tyres can also come into play. you would really need to compare your car to another car with all the same mods and then see how it performs.

why don't you do 1 of the following to save you paying $290 everytime you want to look at the car 1: find a mechanic who will go look at the cars with you. even if you give him $50 for his trouble if it's outside of work hours 2: find a friend or family member who knows a bit about cars to come and have a look at them with you. anyone who knows a bit about cars is going to be able to tell you just as much about the car. also go to a local autoparts store and buy a compression tester, then you can test it yourself. highflow turbo means the stock turbo has been removed, gutted, bored out and had bigger internals fitted to allow it to flow more air and produce more power.

2.5" is more than plenty for a natro skyline. as for type, an oval muffler will be quieter than a cannon, and also isn't so ricer. my advice would be to go to your local exhaust place and ask them for a quote on making you up a system.

charge at the battery. jump start at the battery too. in the past i've tried jump starting at the fuse box and it would barely turn over. moved around to jump start at the battery and started fine. also when charging you should have the battery disconnected from the car, otherwise you can risk blowing stuff if there is a surge.

it comes down to what state. some states allow pods as long as they are secured with a bracket, and front mounts are fine as long as you haven't cut the bumper reo. other states will allow you 1 intake mod, so either a pod, or a fmic. also a front mount won't alter how loud the car is.

back in the day some mechanics i know used to use coca cola to flush radiators and even clean the oil stains off the floors. however doing that with the coke sold today and all you will end up with is a sticky mess. as with most things these days, they aren't as potent as they used to be.

yeah i've owned a few big aussie 6's and a 33, 180sx and a SSS pulsar (natro sr20). for day to day driving the aussie 6's shit all over the jap stuff. comfier seats, more leg room, better driving position (thanks to reach adjustable steering), and buttloads more acceleration in 1500 to 3000rpm range, even at light throttle, where you spend most of time in day to day driving. they are just so effortless to drive. i'm actually thinking my next car will be a vx commodore.

well technically that isn't right. rwcs last 2 or 3 months, so what's to say that any of that stuff didn't start after the rwc was done if there was a long period of time from rwc to sale? bit hard to say that the mechanic passed a dodgy car. it's like buying a skyline with lots of illegal mods that had a rwc done and it passed. plenty of people have put stock parts back on their cars to get rwc's done and then swapped them back to the illegal parts straight afterwards. doesn't mean you can blame the workshop if you get booked for the mods.