mad082

1: any decent front mount 2: a lot will require trimming of the front bar even if they don't require cutting holes for piping 3: cheap coolers start from around $400 and go up from there 4: you won't get 15 to 20kw from a cooler. maybe 5 to 10kw on a hot day after multiple runs. on a cold day less. you also won't get 210kw without the front mount. if you do then by the second or third run on the dyno power would be dropping off fast as the stock coolers suffer heat soak rather fast, especially if you gave it the beans on the way to the dyno as well. 5: the return flow ones from just jap seem to be a cheap, easy option that perform ok.

if you had the injectors prefessionally cleaned first to make sure they are actually flowing 100%, you could probably nudge 250kw on them without touching fuel pressure too much, but it isn't advisable. Rolls, he couldn't use GTR injectors as r33 rb25 ones are side feed not top feed like rb26 ones. he could use s15 injectors though.

$1100 is what a lot of tuners charge. there are some cheaper though. it really comes down to how much you trust the local guy. if you trust him to do a good job then it is worth paying the extra money to get it done locally, that way if something goes wrong you can take it back there easily to get it sorted.

*walks in *sees new pics *walks back out *fap fap fap fap fap

i've tried a few dyno apps on my phone. so far i've managed a best of about 1450hp whilst sitting at my chair at work.

first of all, have you played prologue yet? if not then you should as this will give you a bit of an idea as to what the general physics are like, but they have been improved a lot since then. 1: cars will handle reasonably realistically 2:yes you will have damage that will affect performance 3: don't think so 4: possibly 5: i doubt it 6: well considering that prologue has 16 cars in each race, i'd say, definately yes 7: supposed to be much better. they will try and go round you and over take you rather than just punching into you. i know from playing prologue that it is much harder to get faster cars to give you a punt to speed you up when you have a penalty.

example of a key advantage of fwd. when the back steps out (or is punched out) then you just floor it to gather it back up

i need to be alone now.......

nah mate, everyone on here runs the stock ecu............... /sarcasm

tyres will play a big part. if the cheap tyres are hard and don't grip that well then the 18's will be better. if the 18's aren't that grippy either then the stock wheels with the pressure let down will be better.

a large part of the "fwd is crap" theory is based on 2 things, and very little on actual knowledge. 1: a lot of people who have never driven fwd cars, or at least decent ones. 2: you can't do fully kebab spec burnouts and get the arse end out when taking off from the local mcdonalds in front of a group of flat brimmed cap wearing mates.

i think i just cum a little bit.......

generally any aftermarket ecu will be able to control just the timing alone as long as you still provide it with a TPS signal or a vaccum line for a map sensor. i've just spoken to my tuner mate and am going to link him to this thread, so he can give you some more info.

this map shows it a bit better. look at the timing at 4000rpm. the top box is at low load (so light throttle). the bottom box it wide open throttle. there is a timing difference 23 degrees. now without the ECU recieving any type of info about the load on the engine then it will be running 36 degrees when it should only be running 13, so it will be pinging it's arse off. you could pretty much garantee the engine to fail in a matter of a couple of weeks (of regular driving), if not sooner.

the engine will idle, but it will use 15 degrees timing the whole way through the rev range. and without the AFM it will only rev to 2500rpm. to go into a bit more depth i will post up an ecu map to explain it. in this map you can see that there is a rpm scale down the bottom and a load scale across the top. the load scale can be calculated by either AFM, map sensor of TPS or a combination of them. without the load scale you would simply be using the first colum of the map. now in this case, at high rpm you would have the timing advanced by a massive amount, so it would be pinging it's arse off. however not all maps are like this one. some will have the first box of the column at high rpm only having 5 or 6 degrees, while at higher load it may actually be tuned for 20 or 30 degrees, so in that case you may be losing 10 or 20 degrees of timing. however by not having anything plugged in and just having it in base timing mode where it is locked at 15 degrees, you will be losing anywhere from about 10 degrees timing to 25 degrees timing, so it would be an absolute slug. even if you advance the timing via the CAS to get the base timing to 25 degrees, then there will be sections where you are still well under and places where you are still over. moral of the story, don't be cheap. get an aftermarket ecu

it will probably be affecting your braking performance slightly (it may be thinking that that wheel isn't moving), so it would be a good idea to get an ABS hub. i doubt there is any way around it, but i couldn't say for sure.

as craig said, imports aren't some magical car that has nothing in common with other cars. you can buy most parts these days through repco, autobarn, supercheap, etc. servicing them is no different. they still use an oil filter and you still pour oil into the the cap on the top of the engine that says oil, or has a little picture on it. any mechanic with half a brain will be able to do general servicing as a lot of more modern cars sold locally will be more advanced than skylines. if your parents take their car to a mechanic to get serviced, then you could just take the skyline there too. if they say that they can't do it then what that actually means is that they don't want to do it, not that they can't.

wow, great post. will definately read again...... once i've finished reading every published book...

the amount of 'learning' that the stock ecu does is very little. the HP difference will be very minimal. however the seat of the pants dyno does do a bit more learning. you may do a mod, then have it feel much better or worse, but if you keep driving it you start to get used to the difference and then not notice it as much. having said that, going to a 2.5" system over a stock system if you are going to notice a difference you will notice it straight away. it won't slowly improve. every car i've ever changed the exhaust on, when it has made a difference i've noticed it in the first 100m of driving.

the crank angle sensor is what the ecu uses to determine what position the engine is at. the ecu then adjusts the timing around this based off TPS voltage, rpm and AFM voltage according to what settings it was originally mapped with. it will also take into account any readings from the knock sensors and also the temp sensor can play a part in this as well as it will alter the timing at different engine temps.

if you are getting 20v then you have a serious issue. i'm suprised nothing has blown yet. my grandparents camry had the voltage regulator let go and it was charging 18v at idle and it blew a heap of bulbs (i think only the interior light and the glove box light were about the only 2 that didn't blow), fried the wiper motor even though the wipers weren't turned on, and a bit of other stuff.

and people say fwd cars are crap......

will get beaten by a lot of hondas, commodores, falcons, etc. some it will be close, others won't often this is simply a bearing and isn't overly expensive to change, or really something major to put you off buying the car as often the bearing will still last for a long time. it can be a good way to get the price of the car dropped though.

if it's when hot then it will more than likely be the coils, but it could be any of the things that terry has posted above. start with the spark plugs (as they are the cheapest) and go from there. if the fuel filter hasn't been changed in a while, or is of unknown age, might be worth changing that as well, since they are cheap.

prepsol = wax and grease remover. often easier to find under this name.