mad082

ebay or justjap will have alloy radiators for around $300. just get one of them. much better than getting a second hand one that may be half blocked.

nah it will be finished, it will just be that there is some other game coming out and sony is just a bunch of pussies or they have more pre-orders than what they expected and instead of having them sell out they are just delaying it until they have greater stock numbers

<insert engine out joke here>

depends on when they announce as the next release date. it's up to you though. you certainly have grounds to do so as they will no longer be able to supply you the game at the advertised date

wood is cheaper and not as slippery when wet (don't want to step on metal when wet and go arse up, or have a random person do it because you then become liable)

i saw yesterday that russia had had their release date postponed, and now i turn up to work and it's everywhere. what a bunch of useless fuckwits. my money is that it now won't be released until next year some time and it's probably because some other game was going to be coming out and they got scared, and instead of either manning up and facing the competition or delaying the other title, they delay their most anticipated game and more than likely lose sales from it.

sitting on the limiter possibly fouled up the plugs or overheated the coils. try a new set of plugs and see what happens also, there is an easier, more legal way to see if the ecu has been chipped. you can usually tell just by opening it up.

is it through the paint (to undercoat or bare metal) or not? if it's not through the paint then just a decent buff should sort it out so take it to a detailer for a professional polish. if it's through to the undercoat or bare metal then you will need to see a panelbeater as it will need to be touched up.

unless you are able to get the GT cheap, it would be easier to just buy one that is already turbo, swap over any upgraded parts that yours has and then sell the rest of your car off. will work out a lot cheaper and save a lot of dicking aroung

unless you are going to make the parts yourself it is still going to be more expensive to service. if you want to get picky, a lot of cars would get ruled out simply on the basis that you aren't supposed to have engine mods on your P plates so that pretty much rules out any suggestion has a engine transplant.

nah wouldn't have too much effect as plenty of auto guys are running higher boost on the stock ecu. i'd say it is to go with the neutral switch being permanently set to on to allow the car to start (with auto cars the ecu will only let the car start in neutral or park) and when they are converted from auto to manual they often just short this so it is permanently sending the neutral signal all the time. actually you could probably check this with your consult cable. datascan will show you this info. you can download older versions of datascan that don't require activation from here http://home.exetel.com.au/nds/NDSI/index.p...ontent=download

it isn't on the series 1 either unless you use either a r32 ecu or a z32 ecu

or just a SSS pulsar with a sr20ve conversion in it (easier than trying to find a N1 VZR), or just a standard VZR pulsar. even with the standard sr20de in the the SSS pulsars go well. just put on a set of extractors and a decent exhaust and they rev out nicely. a set of sway bars to make them handle better (make it get a bit of lift off oversteer) and a decent set of brakepads. there are also a few good brake upgrades for them too.

yeah as matt said, just get a manual ecu. if the 80kw was done with the knock sensor plugged in then i'd say that the a/t sensor issue is causing the car to stay in the map for neutral. the ecu has different maps for neutral and when it's actually in gear. if the ecu is expecting an iunput to tell it what gear it is in and it isn't getting that then it will be thinking that it is in neutral and not adding in the extra timing, etc, that it would when it is actually in gear. glad to know the problem was easily solved and just required a bit of contortion of the wrist to plug it back in. lucky you didn't need to replace the sensor. by the way, what boost were you running to make that power?

so did the throttle body on my festiva, LOL. moral of the story, mitsubishi are owned by major league baseball and are putting parts in every car to spy on us.

ecu is probably an auto one. as for how to tell, i don't know but there probably is a way that people more familiar with things such as nissan fast could help you with.

the standard ecu is tuned to be rather rich. this is safer than a leaner ecu and is better for a more universal use. it allows a bit of head room for if the fuel filter gets a bit blocked, injectors get a bit fouled or the fuel pump plays up. if the ecu wasn't retuned whilst fitted to your car it won't be much better than the stock ecu, even if it was tuned for a car with the same mods. the best thing to do is to put the car on a dyno and get them to check the AFR's. it will tell you how rich it is running. if it isn't that rich but you still have a fuel smell, then it could be that your cat converter is shot (empty) and this often increases the amount of fuel smell you get.

yeah it's a common myth that the ignitor is in the ecu but it isn't, otherwise the coilpack part numbers would be the same and there would be 2 different pfc computers for the different series. but there is only 1 pfc type for the 33 and 2 different coil pack types for the 33.

both were daily's. both fine for that, however the r33 was a smoother ride than the 180sx and the extra torque down low was nice too. as for the ss/xr8 option, you would really need to take them for a drive and see what you think. they are nice cars, but are different to the skylines/S series. they are very nice to drive on a daily basis though. seats are great, the reach adjust steering is also great if you are tall (can get the seat back far enough to have your legs comfortable and still reach the steering wheel nicely), and the low down torque is great. the other great thing about them is that you get back to enjoying owning a car again. i found that when i had my skyline any little noise that was out of place or problem with the engine, etc would upset me because i knew it was either going to be a pain to fix, or expensive to fix. when you own a commodore or falcon you forget about all that and as long as it's running on most of the cylinders you ignore any little problems and as my mechanic mate says "drive on brother". and if something does go wrong you know that there are thousands of spare second hand parts out there and every autoparts store will probably have new parts in stock and they will be cheap.

sounds like you should take it to a mechanic. it could be one of many things.

in the general automotive section. probably a few pages back now. it doesn't really matter though. in the r33's the series 1 and series 2 ecu will work in either model (i have personally done this). some people think that the series 2 has the ignitor built into it but they are wrong. the series 2 have the ignitor built into the coils rather than having a seperate ignitor like the s1.

all show and no go

phil is right. it will be a missfire caused by a weak spark. once you wind the boost up the spark can't ignite the fuel due to it being weak. start by pulling out the plugs and checking the gap on them. if it is 1.1mm then gap them down to 0.8mm (or put a new set of copper plugs in pre-gapped at 0.8mm) and see if that fixes the problem. if it makes it better but doesn't fix the problem then you will need a new set of coils.

that isn't really anything usefull though as the game hasn't been released yet. it won't be until all the shops start selling out that the prices will start to go up. at the moment all you are paying for is a pre-order.

i've owned a r33 and a 180sx. r33 is a good every day car. plenty of power down low. the sr20 is good up in the revs and will feel nice and fast, but the rb25 is great at lower revs also (which you would know from your 34).