mad082

latest info is that gt5 will be out by xmas

if there was a split in the pipe then the car would've been running rich. your spark plugs are probably fouled. try a new set of plugs first, but i'm guessing the coils will still be shot though.

the stock one? not much

+1 for coils or plugs, or possibly the ignitor

however if you were wanting to track it the r33 is a better option. from what i understand they don't have oil starvation issues like the 32's did.

are you talking about the engine oil being too full? if so, just remove the oil cap, drop the sump bolt out and drain it all out and then refill it. don't see how this could really affect the gearbox though. resetting the ecu shouldn't also have much affect either as it is more than likely something to do with the gearbox oil or the stall converter as to why it takes a while to go into gear.

so which line was the wastegate hooked up to? the bov line that simply vents back into the intake, or the vaccum line from the plenum to the bov? if the plenum to the bov line then it will still work fine and isn't really an issue. you may get the occasional spike, but i was running my car like this for a while and never had an issue with it over boosting (just the occasional spike for half a second on a gear change). also the fitting instructions for hybrid intercoolers tell you to hook it up the the vaccum line of the bov. that said, i found that having the wastegate hooked up to the plenum a bad idea full stop. it would suffer from spiking. also the fact that the actuator is reading from after the intercooler isn't that good either in my opinion. lets say for example that at 12psi your intercooler is adding 2psi of restriction. if your wastegate is reading from after the intercooler, your engine is still seeing 12psi but the turbo is actually putting out 14psi. this is going to drastically shorten it's life. if you have the wastegate reading from the intercooler pipe from the turbo to the cooler then the turbo will only run at 12psi, however your boost gauge will show the boost dropping off at higher rpm at full throttle. this might make you feel like things aren't working properly, but it is a good way to see a mix of the turbo running out of puff and how much on a restriction the intercooler is. once i changed my setup back to getting boost from before the intercooler my boost was much more stable than when it was hooked up to the plenum.

i got a mate who is a panel beater. when they get panels delivered he opens them before the delivery driver leaves and any that are damaged he refuses to sign for for pretty much this exact reason. i think you'll find a lot of companies are like this. they are probably forced into being like that a little bit by some dodgy customers. there would be people out there who would damage the panels themselves out of their own clumsiness who then try and get the panels replaced for free.

and because you have to pay the virgin tax

step 5: get banned for spamming

possibly. depends on what sort of cut it is hitting.my 33 used to die when it hit boost cut, but then it would kick back in and keep reving. if it is really dying until you drop the revs down a fair way then it may be an issue with the AFM dropping it into limp mode. check the ecu for fault codes might be something worth doing.

how often are finish lines at the end of the straights though? look at moto gp for example. someone in front has to get reasonably poor drive off the last corner, or the guy behing has to get an epic run off the corner to be able to get in front by the finish line. by 3/4 of the way down the straight they be side side by side, but generally they have already crossed the line.

i think the COTF won't ever really be much faster than what the current cars are. i think that like F1, and most other series for that matter, the peak speeds for the series were 5 or 6 years ago when the cars were running big power and didn't really have to be that reliable long term. now they have backed everything off and are focusing on keeping the series viable. 1 thing i would like to see is a change in aero to make slipstreaming more of an overtaking tool. i'm guessing that the lack of aero on the v8's is the reason why, as they don't make that big of a hole in the air for the car behind to get a good tow from (i'm not that up on aero so feel free to correct me if i'm wrong about that). as it is they get a slight tow and it really just comes down to braking a bit later and having the inside line. this often limits overtaking areas. i'd like to see it where the guy getting the tow can really get an advantage from it and be able to make passes in other areas. it would make the racing a bit better because there would be more passing opportunities and also when someone is holding everyone up it would make it easier for others to get past. watching motogp is good for that. you see someone get a good tow and pass and then on the next lap the other person might get the tow. or in the case of the aussie cars, at bathurst they could change positions 2 or 3 times down conrod straight by leap frogging each other, or the guy who was 3rd in the back could end up being 1st at the end of the straight because the guy in second would tow him past 1st and then he could pull out and go into the lead. i know that with the bigger cars it wouldn't work as much, but it would be good to see it have more of a role in overtaking.

i doubt the COTF will have the aero package of the DTM cars. even if they don't then it isn't much of a drama and i doubt that would be a deal breaker for BMW to not enter. it's not like it's a huge deal to change an aero package compared to big differences in chassis, etc. if they were to exact DTM spec it would be great though, because then you would also have audi and merc cars able to race, and it would also be good to see some aussie cars taken to europe to run in some sort of 'friendly' exhibition race over there. would give a bit of a boost to australian motorsport

if it's cutting out at 6000rpm (i'm assuming you mean 6000rpm and not 600rpm since it idles at higher than 600rpm) and by cutting out you mean it's sort of like the engine has just turned off and not just spluttering, then i'd say that more than likely the boost is up a bit too high. get an aftermarket boost gauge so you can see exactly what pressure it runs.

rather then starting a new thread i dug up this old one, posted today on the v8 supercar site:

blowing hoses is a bad sign, especially if you've blown the hose more than once. overheating problems are caused by either a failing cooling system or a blown headgasket (and a blown head gasket can also be the result of overheating). either way, it may have already done serious damage.

as someone said in reply to you in another thread, it sounds like you have some sort of boost controller. try running a new hose to the wastegate (straight from teh cooler piping to the wastegate actuator) and see if that alters the boost. if not then you may either have an aftermarket actuator or the wastegate flap is fouling on the dump pipe.

the adgantage is that you don't have to go making up new manifolds, trying to squeeze turbos into tight engine bays with v8 motors, and on NA motors lag won't be that much of an issue. because you don't really need to run much in the way of intercoolers and the turbos aren't massive. you will have some lag though obviously. an advantage though, epic turbo spool noise coming out the exhaust as it doesn't have to pass through any mufflers after the turbo.

I only watch stuff i miss. i have playtv and every sunday night we go through the following weeks guide and set it to record anything we want to watch

probably 90% of imports have had the clocks wound back, so even if the owner is telling the truth that he hasn't wound the clock back, it was probably wound back in japan. as for maintanence costs, they aren't too bad, however if you are looking at the cheaper end of the scale of gtr's then you are more likely to get one that is going to have some underlying issues and may cost a bit to fix.

series 2 coils are not the same as series 1. also don't be cheap. buy new coils not second hand as there is nothing to say that they won't also have the same issue. gapping down plugs is simply a band-aid fix to a bigger problem. since you car is a series 1 it could also be the ignitor pack causing the issue. that is the box at the back of the rocker cover. finally, unless you are running high boost on (16psi or higher) then heat range 7 plugs would be too cold. you would be better off running BCPR6ES plugs. they are a hotter plug so won't suffer from fouling up at idle, etc like the colder plug might.

i get 50gb on telstra adsl2. more than does me. download speeds of about 1.4mb/s but i'm just happy to buy games. i don't buy many.

i'll be different and say r33 gts-t with a turbo upgrade to make about 250-270kw at the wheels