mad082

cops will book you for the carbon bonnet. one way to get heat out of the engine bay is to raise it up at the back so there is a gap between the bonnet and the sill at the back of the engine bay. not the best way to do it but it works. also for generally driving it shouldn't be too much of an issue. as long as the cooling system is working properly then i wouldn't bother.

internals are slightly different. for starters the engine has higher compression that the turbo version, so this limits the boost you can run safely before you start having issues. on the upside it means that you will make more power for the same amount of boost than a stock turbo one (but they can run higher boost and then even it out). pretty sure fuel injectors are bigger on the turbo engine. it isn't as simple as just bolting a turbo on and away you go. other than needing to change the exhaust (manifold and actual exhaust system), you also need to run water and oil lines for the turbo lubrication and cooling. then there's all the intake piping. after that you have the fuel system to worry about. if the injectors are different like i think they are then you need to upgrade them and then upgrade the ECU as well. generally even for people doing all the work themselves it still costs a few thousand dollars to do. all up you are actually better off selling your car and buying a factory turbo model. non turbo skylines sell for pretty much the same as turbo ones these days thanks to the P-plate restrictions in a lot of states, so you will come out a few thousand dollars better off this way, and you will get the added bonus of bigger brakes and a stronger gearbox (not sure if this is the case on the r32, but it is for the r33).

locking the diff = illegal, wear out tyres faster and does affect handling in a negative way (that's why diffs were invented)

must've had a long extension lead.........

i'm always mad, hence the name

pretty much yeah. the missus SSS has the same sort of gear ratios as my 33 and 180 had. below 3000, maybe 3500 rpm the pulsar would keep up or maybe even pull away. compared to my 180sx, which had the same motor but was turbo, the pulsar would shit all over it until about 4000rpm, but by that time the SSS was off in the distance (this was driving in the same style in both cars and not reving out each gear, but coming out of turns/intersections in second gear at about 20 or 30kmh in second gear and then flooring it. you'd be doing the speed limit before the the 180sx was even starting to catch at all). mum has a corolla and in the low end i'd say it may even beat the pulsar because it has shorter gear ratios. but if the pulsar had the same gear ratios it would beat it. but compared to a turbo version it will have a much better low end. if you compare it to an aussie 6 or 8 then yes it will have a shit low end.

about 82 to 85 degrees with the stock thermostat and normal driving. giving it the beans should see it go a bit higher though.

Ok, so i'm posting this up for a mate who is putting a natro 25 with a rb20 gearbox into a 33 for someone and has run into problems with the speedo. he is using a sr20 speedo sender and the speedo is reading double and is hitting the 180kmh speed cut at about 90kmh (i think the speedo is showing 180kmh as well, so he can essentially hit the speed cut near redline in 2nd gear or at mid revs in 3rd). does anyone know a way to fix this? reading through some other threads i saw something about a jaycar speedo corrector unit so will let him know about that, but i was just wondering if there was any other easier and possibly cheaper way to do it. does anyone know of possible senders that will work?

yeah i been waiting for them to put a r33 gts-t in it too. do they have the r32 gts-t in the earlier ones? from memory they do. sif put that gutless piece of aids in and not the 33

ahaha, yeah i've got fable and i had a good laugh when i first found out that you could have sex, and the lame moaning. then when i discovered you could seduce people of the same sex i really lol'd. best reaction was from showing my mother in law when we were living there. she's a bit of a prude.

wow, thanks for digging up a thread from 2007 just to say LOL fkn idiot

yes put the stock temp thermostat back in. that will help. and heat range 8 plugs are way too cold for what you are running. your problem is more than likely caused by the plugs fouling up, which is why you notice it more on cold wet days. go to a heat range 6 plug and you should notice a big improvement in how the car drives. it will idle smoother.

i'd personally go the sr20. pretty sure the engine mounts on them will be pretty close. best place to ask about this sort of stuff would be on the pulsar forums. http://forum.pulsar.org.au/

it's a turbo car. of course it won't have the low down power of a NA car, even though there is a 500cc difference in engine size. also the mazda probably has shorter gear ratios.

get better tyres. especially if they are the cheaper falken tyres. the cheaper falken tyres are terrible in the wet.

well there is a light at the end of the tunnel. the game is currently in production. there was some funny responses to this on GTPlanet. this was my favourite.

1: depends on how you drive. floor it everywhere and it will drink fuel. drive it like a granny and it will get decent economy. also if you spend a bit of time in traffic expect economy to not be as good. 2: don't really need to be looked after any different to any other car. service at every 5000kms. unless you buy a dud it shouldn't break down much at all, however because they are getting on a bit they are starting to get to the age where the coil packs are starting to die and they are a few hundred to replace (but then shouldn't need to be replaced for a long time after that).

for a daily driver a stock car will be much better. it will drive nicer in traffic (something with bigger turbos, etc won't have quite the low end response), stock suspension will give a smoother ride, and it won't drink as much fuel.

toyota motors are better than nissan motors. end of story.

oh yeah that reminded me, old mates xr6T sounds friggin tough. they do just sound like a beefier skyline. i prefer the sound of them over a skyline and most v8's.

i like both of them. i would simply have to drive them both before i bought either. i do like the thought of the turbo 6 so i would probably lean towards that. my sister in law's ex had a BA XR6T sedan (just the 240kw one with the 4 speed auto). got a flash tune off CAPA. before the flash (dead stock) he made 248hp (185kw). with the flash tune he made 299hp (222kw), but i can't remember whether that was at 9psi or 11psi. also that was a generic tune (basically a standard map with a slight tweak for the boost increase). the car was never put on the dyno for the tune or anything like that, so there would've been plenty more in it had he had a full tune done. even still, at 9psi it was pretty impressive. gave the feeling like it was holding back a lot too. you'd floor it and it would accelerate well (thanks to a buttload of torque), but you could tell the generic tune and low boost was holding it back and there was a heap more power there just waiting to be unleashed.

sounds about right to me

when i got my 33 and was getting insurance i got a quote for both trade insurance and private (because i own a business). private was cheaper.

pretty sure 2008 was the last of the BF (except for wagons)

fatter tyres will often give you less traction in the wet as it takes longer for the water to be pumped out through the grooves in the tyre. tyre compound and tread pattern will make a bigger difference to traction in the wet. a good compound with a decent tread pattern will give you good traction in the wet.