mad082

telstra finally got the ADSL2 sorted at home. wireless speeds are a fraction faster than they were. only tested it on my phone so far. got 6.5mb down, 0.87 up with weak signal. and that's wireless g, not wireless n. will test on the computer tonight.

i went into harvey norman on the weekend and put a pre-order on gt5. i went the cheaper collectors edition. came up in the system as $198, but the guy did it at $129 for me (since that is what their site had). he said that there are always things in the system at wrong prices, but it may also be an indication that that is what the price will be for non pre orders. pretty sure he also said that the signature edition is all sold out (i could have mistaken him though), but he expected there to be a few extras on top of what are set aside for pre-order as he said that other times pre-orders had been sold out they had recieved one or 2 extra for stock.

non power steering cars will have somewhat light steering when moving as well. could be that if they have a speed sensor for the steering it's stuffed. could be low on fluid or the pump or steering rack is stuffed.

depends on what state you are in as to what fuel you are actually using. so you might not be actually using BP fuel at all. it may be shell or caltex. i can't remember what companies have refineries in which states. i'm pretty sure that QLD has a BP refinery. other than that i'm not overly sure.

a cheap "performance" chip you get off the net won't do squat. probably the worst performance mod you can suggest to anyone. might as well take off the passengers side mirror and wiper blade for better aerodynamics. for basic tuning start with a safc. if you are willing to spend a bit more then go a z32 ecu and nistune. as for going bigger injectors, unless you plan on doing major head work then you won't need bigger injectors. you have to remember that if you were to tune a relatively stock car you will actually be reducing the amount of fuel the injectors squirt in, not increasing it. you have to be increasing the amount of air going into the head by a hell of a lot to max out the stock injectors. you also have to remember that some mods you do go get good power out of a NA can limit the power you get out of a turbo car. if you raise the compression then when you go turbo you can't run as much boost.

your upload eats penis

yeah i was shocked at the difference

at work i can get 2 speeds depending on whether i'm hooked into the modem via a usb cable or ethernet (have 2 computers off a single port modem). this is telstra ADSL2. at home i have telstra 8mb ADSL (they were supposed to hook my up to ADSL2, and after a week of waiting for them to fix it they still haven't) and get similar speeds to what i do at work on the USB cable. usb ethernet

what eps meant about using a cockpit was do you guys have the cockpit driving simulator things, not what view do you use? a guy that works at harvey norman here has one. cost him $1800. i'd like to make one, but i don't have the space to put it, or the money to buy the wheel. i have an office chair with a sports seat on it so i'd just make it so that it clamps to that.

it's a skyline, not a space rocket. any normal mechanic with half a brain will be able to do the work. half the stuff won't be that much different to a VL commodore, and i'm sure he's worked on newer, more advanced motors than a dirty old RB.

skylines are over rated. a lot of people on here think they are the best and fastest car ever made. i've owned about 10 cars and driven many more and while the skyline was fun, it wasn't the best on a day to day basis. would i buy another skyline? probably not, unless i had the money to do it up exactly how i wanted it (which would cost double what buying the car would). would i recommend people own one at least once in their lifetime? yes.

go to a panel beater. the actual amount of rust will be much larger than what is visible. a panel beater will be able to remove the rust (grind it back to where it is metal), and if it has penetrated all the way through the metal then you can have the hole welded up. if it is too big then they will cut a section out and weld a new piece in. i recently had two bubbles of rust removed from around the rear window of the missus pulsar. this is what they did. this is also the only way to get rid of the rust.

if the turbo timer is setup wrong then it will show your rpm being different to the dash. as for the idle at 650rpm, that all depends on whether the air con is on or not, as well as the temp of the car. it will idle higher when it's cold. for the power bit, your mates 180sx spinning the wheels in 3rd doesn't mean it's much more powerful, just has crappier tyres, especially if the car is stock. they also do feel a bit faster than a 33. there are a few things you can do to find some possible causes of your issue. first, what rpm are you making full boost? with the stock turbo at 7psi it should be making full boost by well under 3000rpm. if it is higher than that then you either have an issue with the wastegate or it could also be caused by timing or fuel issues. secondly get a timing light and check the timing. if this is too retarded then you will have poor performance and advancing it a bit can make a world of difference. thirdly, if you still can't find any issues, take it to a workshop and put it on a dyno. this will tell you what power it's making and what the air/fuel mixtures are like. if the timing is fine and the AFR's are fine and it's making low power then more than likely it's just your engine that's stuffed. getting a compression test done would tell you whether it is or not. it could be a few other things though. the cat converter could be blocked, the air filter could be crappy, the afm could be stuffed, the timing belt could've jumped a tooth, and many others. might not even be engine related. might be that you have brakes that are sticking on, or tight wheel bearings.

rolls said the price for a 1.5 way. a 2 way is more expensive, but as i said earlier, no one spends big money (in this case $3500) on a diff for driving it around the streets.

i used to put lumps of wood in front of my ramps before driving my 33 up onto them

i would also find out what "fully locked diff" actually means. is it a 1 way, 1.5 way, 2 way or has it just been welded up? if it has been welded then walk away and don't even bother getting stateroads to look at it. how was it turning sharp corners (like turning sharp from an intersection)? could you hear the inside wheel spinning? you mention in your post linking to the carsales ad a hks wastegate. what turbo is it running to need a hks wastegate? and what manifold? bit hard to tell from the pics, but i doubt it has a hks wastegate and either the guy selling it thinks it has one and knows too little about cars to know that it actually doesn't or is lying to you. it sounds a bit like the guy doesn't know what he's talking about though. he has said it has a stainless steel radiator but it's actually alloy. i'd also find out the reason for getting the alloy radiator. also find out the reason for the new engine at 115,000kms (if he was the owner when it happened). how many kms on the engine that was put in? has it had the timing belt changed? also very unsure about the "whole car resprayed" bit. is it going to be some backyard job done in acrylic or will it be professionally done in 2 pack? for someone selling a car he hasn't exactly gone to much trouble to try and make the car look tidy for the photos. interior is dirty, engine bay is dirty, hasn't even washed it. don't want to scare you off it too much, but these are just a few things i would be finding out before spending a cent more on getting the car looked at.

i'm assuming you just wanted to be first to post this since you are posting it before it has come out.

unless the clutch is slipping, forget about it. same goes for the battery. unless it is dying, leave it alone. belts, yeah maybe, depending on condition of the ones on there (excluding timing belt). timing belt, yes, and make sure the tensioners are done too. fluids, yes. water pump, yes, best to do it while you have everything apart. spark plugs, depends on how old the ones you have in there are.

i used to jack my 33 up from various locations. for the front you could use where you circled in the pic (having a brain fart at the moment and can't remember the name of it), or you can jack it from a few locations around the wheel where the suspension parts bolt to the body. for the rear the same goes. there are a few suspension points you can jack from, or even the diff if need be.

interesting trent. obviously different applications so can't accurately compare, but for arguments sake it's good. look at the torque. the twin screw made 200nm more at 50kmh less (1000rpm), but at 2500rpm the twin screw is making double the torque. that thing would be an absolute pig in the wet..... or the damp, or even if it looked like rainging, LOL.

the stateroads check that showed low compression didn't tell you that the engine had been thrashed, it shows that the engine was tired. this can be caused by many things, and thrashing it is only one cause. poor maintainance is another, or just simply a mechanical failure of internal parts. also there is a difference between a car that has a few mods and is given a bit of a squirt every now and then on the street and someone who takes the car to the track and has it banging on the limiter for ages. the compression test may show that it's fine, but that doesn't mean that in 2 weeks time the turbo is going let go or the bearings aren't going to let go, etc. sure this could happen on any engine, but the chances of it happening on an engine that has spent a lot of time at very high rpm are more likely.

orange with black bonnet? i see the car regularly. it does laps up the main street all the time. apparently it has a 30 in it.

the 34 has been thrashed. no one puts in a locked diff just to drive like a granny. they put it in to drift, so i'm guessing it's spent a fair bit of time bashing on the limiter. stateroads check won't be able to tell you things like that.

do a search for the IAC/AAC valve clean thread.

if it is done up tight it should come loose no faster that a longer bolt.