mad082

my point was though that both sequiential and batch injection are multipoint injection as they inject fuel at mulitple points. the batch injection just refers to multiple injectors firing it at once. it can be two or all of them.

the throwout bearing is probably dying. best to get it replaced

no point getting a service, there's nothing to service. if anything just pay to get the gears adjusted. don't waste the money on a service. the hubs will already have grease in them, and the basic service at $55 will probably only be a gear and brake adjustment and minor truing of wheels. very few bike shops these days will even touch wheel bearings for that sort of money. we based out service pricing off some shops in brissy (but went a bit cheaper) and we don't even pick up the grease until you get to $135. at $50 we adjust the cones in the wheels, headset and crank if needed, but we don't actually grease up the bearings.

i just discovered that you can get bike hubs with suspension inside the hub. they work a bit like an engine mount

just to nit pick what you are saying, both batch and sequiential are both actually multipoint injection. multipoint just simply refers to whether there is a single injection point (like at the throttle body) or multiple injection points (an injector in each intake runner). nissan specs attribute the 370z with having sequential multi-point injection.

yeah adjusting the gears isn't hard if you know what it is doing wrong. just take not of exactly what you do so that if it makes it worse then you can undo it and try going the other way. if it's in 5th gear or so then it's going to be cable tension. you won't need to touch the limit screws just either tighten the cable or loosen it a bit via the cable adjuster. i'm guessing that probably half a turn will do it. and yeah, you should get about 3 years before it's value starts to drop below what it cost you. the problem is that masi isn't the most popular brand (that's not saying it isn't good, just a lot of people don't think it is or don't know of the brand so will prefer to buy a more commonly known brand). oh and if your mate ever works in the call centre at pac brands then there is a chance i have spoken to him on the phone

aaaaaaahahahaha, epic pwnage

if it was in fact the ultegra version you got for 2k then that's a bloody good price. the wholesale on it was about $3500. the 105 version was down around 2k though. as for your gears, well it is more than likely just going to be a slight cable adjustment issue. without knowing more about exactly what it's doing it's a bit hard to give you instructions on how to fix it, so if you aren't overly knowledgable on adjusting gears then i'd take it to a bike shop to get it fixed. it will probably only take a few seconds to fix but you'll probably get charged $15 or $20 for it, LOL.

wait, so you are moving from an sr20 to a "real engine" but the car you are buying has a rb20 in it? aaaahahahahaha. IMHO the sr20 is more of a "real engine" than the rb20, LOL. and the s13's are a better car. lighter, faster, etc.

on the note of recording the cop, it could possibly backfire on some people. there are plenty of people who are arseholes to cops when they get pulled over and seem to get on the defensive from the moment they get pulled over and then wonder why the cop then decides to start going over the car looking for things to defect them for (i know people like this and i've seen them act like this even when the cops are doing an RBT and are pulling over every car). if you had a video setup in the car you would want to make sure you are well behaved whenever it is filming because if they decided to take possession of the footage and it shows you doing a skid or street racing then you may be in trouble.

fuel doesn't go stale in 2 weeks. it does go stale over time, but not in 2 weeks, or even a month really. that said a car will still run on fuel that is pretty old, just not that well. i've got an old commodore and the fuel in it is a mix of about 6 months old and 2 years old and it still starts and runs. my mother has a 2000 model corolla and she had to have an operation and couldn't drive for about 3 months and her car ran fine after those 3 months (i drove it occasionally during those 3 months, but never put fuel in it)

for the turbo, manual 33 the standard diff ratio is 4.11:1, however the active diffs i think were 4.3:1. 1 3.214 2 1.925 3 1.302 4 1.000 5 0.752 Reverse 3.369 natros and autos had different diff ratios, the autos had different gear ratios but i'm not sure about the gear ratios on the natros. they should be close if they are different.

i'd rather walk or own a pink scooter (so it matches my skirt - wasteland joke) than either of them.

you obviously don't realise that there are police officers who own skylines and do come on this site, as well as other cops who probably view the site as well. you have blatantly said on a public forum that you go out late night drifting. you are stupid for drifting on public roads and even more stupid for admiting to it on a public forum where you can't got back and edit your post. people like you who have no respect for the road rules and prefer to drift on the open road rather than in a controlled environment are the reason why import owners get such bad publicity from the media and such attention from police. in short, please sell your car, hand in your licence and use public transport from this point foward. oh and i hope you get better soon so you don't have to miss another day of school

not a skyline, but the missus pulsar (formerly mine) was a mid 2000 model (so one of the last n15's ever made) and it's harmonic balancer has different timing marks to the earlier models. instead of having 5 or 6 marks it only has 3. i've only heard of 1 other one being like it and it was made in the same month

once dead they normally stop fluctuating and will sit at a set voltage (can't remember where it is 0.1v or 1v, but it's at 1 end of their normal range)

and it might even beat it in a dyno comp

yeah i totally hate how the cops come and harass me when i'm trying to deliberately break the law. this one time i was walking down the street with the tv i had just stolen and was going to put it in the car i had just stolen and this cop came along and started questioning me about it and i ended up getting arrested. i mean how much of an arsehole is that

yeah the p plate laws are coming in in less than a month, so he will have to get a non turbo. my honest opinion would be to just get a commodore/falcon or v6 magna or SSS pulsar (unless you are one of the idiots who thinks fwd is shit because you can't do fully kebab style burnouts) for now and then get a turbo skyline when you are off your p's. all of the above will be as fast or faster than a natro skyline and be cheaper on parts, insurance, etc, and get you less attention from the police

aaaaaaahahaha, that's going to go down well on this forum.....

yeah just buy the non turbo one to start with. if it takes you 6 months to find one then so be it. a deturbofied rb25det will be an absolute slug. the only way to make it as powerful as a rb25de is to raise the compression which requires a rebuild, so just raising the price even more. you'd be better off just buying a commodore because even one with 500,000kms on the clock that is falling to bits would be better to drive than a rb25det-t (det minus t). and tell your mate he's an idiot.

i had a shopping trolley boy ask me if my r33 was an r36

ok going colder plugs may make the misfire worse (colder plugs don't ignite fuel as well as hotter plugs), as will making the gap bigger (if the missfire is caused by weak coils). secondly just to point out something in your first post, changing spark plugs doesn't make a car run more rich. they have zero effect on fuel settings.

you were probably still a few cm from it. use a screw driver to pull the seal to the side and then shine a torch in there and have a look

how do you dose in a NA car? do you yell "VU-TU-TU-TU-TU" out the window? *mumbles* god i hate people who use the word "dose" for anything other than talking about medicine