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Everything posted by mad082
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sounds like a wiring issue. check all connections then go from there. may possibly be in the stalk in the dash, not just under the bonnet.
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Boost Pressure Sensor In R34
mad082 replied to Bayside Blue R34 GTV's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
you will need the proper map sensor for the PFC boost controller kit. may i ask why you want the PFC to show boost? the PFC doesn't need to read boost to operate so you can run it without it. it only needs to read boost if you are using it to control the boost, in which case the controller kit should have everything you need. if you do really want to run it then have a look here at some info by a member of sau called paulr33. that way you can display boost on the hand controller, but remember that it doesn't do anything with that info. it doesn't alter the tuning or anything like that based on it. http://www.paulr33.com/powerfc-faq/powerfc-faq.htm#51 be easier to just go and buy a boost gauge though. -
http://www.gtplanet.net/50-stunning-gt5-photomode-interior-screenshots-how-to-take-your-own/
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Boost Pressure Sensor In R34
mad082 replied to Bayside Blue R34 GTV's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
the PFC shouldn't use it or need it. PFC should only use the AFM signal. as for where it's located (if the natro has one), attached to the firewall, almost directly about the rocker cover. found this pic with a quick google search -
it can. it's worth checking your timing though because if it has been advanced then it might ping a bit. you are still best off using the 95 though.
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oh and i managed to roll a car for the first time (my N1 gtr) on saturday on the trial mountain track. twice in the 1 lap, LOL. first time was on the very first corner (trying to be a smart arse and weaving between cars off the start line rather than going around the outside). the second time was at the last corner of the track. you come down the hill and have the chicane before the start line. i cut the right hand bend a little bit too much and flipped it. still ended up winning the race easily though, LOL.
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my B-spec drivers are still retarded. they are only at around level 8. i had one in my lp560, in the french only race on the madrid track i think (one of the city tracks). by the first corner he was up to 3rd by the first corner. had some alfa and a (i think) lancia or something like that in front of him. was still in 3rd after the second lap. as you said, no taking the inside line, etc. on the straights half the time he was just ramming the rear of the car in front rather than pulling out to go round them. then if he did pull out he would only just have the nose of the car up to about the rear wheel then even though he would be on the inside line for the corner he'd brake early, then floor it quickly then brake again. then he ended up spinning out. he managed to get into the lead eventually, but the front bumper was barely still attached. for the sports truck one at daytona i had an ford SVT and i had to fully modify it for the moron to be able to win. he was just too slow on the corners that was was last by the end of the first corner even with it semi modified. can't remember if it has been posted in here or not (and too lazy to go looking), but this video shows how dumb the B spec drivers are. the b-spec driver has spun out and can't get going again http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CKNk8jN9vfs
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and the factory optioned whine from the power steering pump, LOL.
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1: manual natro r32's are common. i'd say just as many manual versions as auto, if not more 2: 10w40 oil should be fine. 3: you could use 91 octane fuel, however my suggestion would be at least 94/95 octane (E10 should be fine for this), and 98 is preffered. 4: most common problem would be coil packs arcing out from old age (resulting in misfires) 5: gts-t gearbox will bolt to a natro. the gts-t box is a stronger box, but unless your box is stuffed i wouldn't waste the money. 6: gts-t exhaust should fit on without much hassle. as said above, if you go an aftermarket system i'd suggest a 2.25" system as said above.
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Coolant Leaking From Heater Box On Passenger Side
mad082 replied to BOOZTJUNKEY's topic in General Maintenance
in the short term you would be best off disconnecting the 2 hoses that run from the engine bay through the firewall to the heater box. you need to join the 2 hoses together. this will at least stop you from losing coolant (and possibly cooking the engine) until you get the issue sorted. -
it is common for it to fluctuate a little bit. 82 degrees is about where it should sit, but it isn't uncommon for them to get a bit higher. if you are worried about it then there are 2 things you can do. the first is get a new thermostat, and the other (which will more likely make a difference) is to take your radiator to a radiator place and get them to clean it properly. often they get a bit clogged over time and lose their effeciency. the cost of getting it properly cleaned might not be much less than getting an aftermarket alloy radiator though.
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baaaaaaaaahahahahaha, i laugh so much because i know how you feel had that happen when getting my licences. i thought i was going to suck at the AMG challenge but i actually did quite well. generally silver first attempt (didn't bother trying again). the very first one i did i was just planning on passing it and not caring what i got. do the first run, get to the fast left hander over the crest before the right hand hairpin and finish line (the first section of the track) and i had a massive off, into the wall, across the road into the sand. get back on the road, about 50m from the finish, look at the time, has just ticked over the time for silver. so i had to do that one again knowing that i could easily get silver.
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i've got a dyno app on my phone. i managed to get 1200+hp at the fingertips, LOL
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if you want a fast NA 6 cylinder without spending much money get a commodore or falcon and put a shorter diff ratio in it.
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Does It Feel Like Your R33 Is Outdated?
mad082 replied to crazyr33's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
it was a GTST. it comes down to a few things, better lumbar support, angle adjustment on the base of the seat as well as reach adjustable steering (not just height adjustable steering) how do they treat them though? i've owned commodores, and had plenty of mates who have owned many commodores (i live in a bogan town) and the only ones who have had any real issues are the ones who thrash the hell out of them. -
Starting Problem - R32 Gtr - Post Rollcage/painting
mad082 replied to savant's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
do you know how the immobiliser works (what it cuts)? some of the cheaper ones cut the fuel pump, so it may prime the pump but then it simply turn it off. might be worth pulling the fuel line off at the fuel filter and see if it pumps fuel when you try to start it. that is my guess as to what is happening. if welding was done in the car then it may also be worth checking fuses as well. generally nothing happens but there is the odd chance something has blown. -
yeah it costs you 3 million dollars or something like that, and you never get to take it home. if you want to drive it you ring up ferrari, they take it to a track for you, you drive it round then hand the keys back when you are done. also while talking about cars that can hold their own against the big boys, look at the list closely. you will see the ariel atom on there above the GTR. that's essentially a car made in a shed, LOL. same goes for the caterham.
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yes it will work but unless the tune was done specifically for your car then you can end up with one of the 3 possible outcomes: 1: you lose power 2: you gain power 3: you gain power but it isn't a "safe" tune on your car and you end up with a blown motor. my advice, spend a bit more money and get a nistune.
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yeah go back to the stock ecu or you may end up needing a new motor not long after the mods go on.
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you aren't meant to change them every 5000kms, some people just do it. if your coils are in good condition then realistically you could easily get 15 to 20k out of them. if your coils are dying you might get 7000kms. my advice would be to let the next set go for 10,000kms and see if you have any missfire issues. if not then you know you can half your change frequency.
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yeah oil leaking from the rocker covers and from the power steering pump both seem to be factory optioned oil leaks. i have seen so many skylines with leaks from either of those 2 locations you can only assume it was an option box on the factory order form, LOL.
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Getting to the front is the issue, not staying there.
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Enduros are after the extreme level. gotta be level 23 or 25 or something like that before they appear
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Well after probably an hour of trying i manged to get 3rd. pity i needed 2nd for a silver, but i donmt care. It's done and i'll come back to it when every other part of the game is done and i'm bored out of my brains