mad082

battery isn't that hard to remove disconnecting the battery shouldn't alter the settings of the PFC, not sure about the EVC, but i would assume it should hold the data in it's memory

yeah just leave it plugged in. the ecu ignores it other than to pass the info onto the dash as far as i know.

i know mechanics who run it in their cars. there are plenty of uneducated people bad mouthing ethanol which is the reason why a lot of people are scared of it. more often than not any problems caused are from lack of maintenance, rather than the fuel (such as people getting clogged injectors because they haven't ever changed the fuel filter and then the detergents in the fuel have broken down particals caught in the filter so they are small enough to get through the filter and end up in the injectors). i've run E10 fuels for years with no issues. Some countries have been running high ethanol quantity fuels for many years now.

actually from the research i have done they still have 91 RON fuel in japan (although i have read a few things that say that their base fuel is about 89 RON). I'm yet to speak to someone in japan to verify this, but i don't think it's quite like people think, that even their base model fuel is better than ours. i'm pretty sure that the majority of japanese cars are designed to run on 91 octane and it is only their performance cars that are designed to run on higher octane fuels, but they are still only designed for 95 or 96 octane fuel. a similar mistake is made when people talk about US fuels. they see the octane rating in the 80's and think the fuel is shit, but they don't realise that the US uses a different octane rating system, and their fuels aren't that much different to ours.

Powerchip are a waste of time (and a bunch of dream boats, LOL). for the money that they want you to pay for them you could get a full aftermarket ecu and see REAL gains in power.

that isn't my point. my point is that a good driver in a car with or without ABS will stop in the same distance.

are you missing that he said it was for a GTT, or are you taking the piss? the stock turbo ecu is tuned for minimum 95 octane fuel. running it on 91 octane will result in a loss of power, or if the knock sensors aren't working correctly a damaged motor. 95 or 98 octane will result it more power and safer knock levels.

the 140kw rated power is at the fly wheel, not at the wheels, so if it ever goes on the dyno don't expect it to make that much power. expect closer to 110 to 120kw at the wheels. as for getting a 40kw gain, without major mods (such as rebuilding the engine with bigger cams, higher compression, head work, etc), you won't even get close. a full exhaust, aftermarket ecu and a set of cams might get you 20kw. to be honest though, and a lot of people don't like hearing this, the NA skylines are nothing special in the power department, so there isn't much point trying to get more power out of them. save your money, leave it relatively stock (just do exhaust mods) and then buy a turbo car when you are off your P's.

i'm still yet to see how ABS would be a disavantage in a motorkhana. outright braking power will still be the same, and you get the advantage of still being able to steer while braking hard without the fear of locking up. up until the point of having a wheel locking up ABS is the same as non-ABS (you can still modulate the braking to be on the point of locking up and not actually have the ABS engage), but once you do lock up then the ABS is better.

what boost are you running at the moment? if it is relatively high boost (14psi+) then you will want to wind it down a bit with heat range 6 plugs.

flow and pressure are essentially the same thing. if it was able to fill up a 2L bottle quickly then it obviously has decent flow and pressure, and if you have to hold your finger over the end tightly to stop the flow then it obviously still has decent pumping pressure. enough at least to start.

ok i'm going to do a semi sensible post, directed at a few people, but i'm too lazy to be specific in who i direct it at other than the OP. OP, what tyre pressure are you running? if the pressure is too high mixed with poor camber then you will have terrible traction as only a small patch of rubber is actually touching the ground. get a wheel alignment done, get the camber sorted, get some new suspension (don't go stiff coilovers as this will make wheelspin worse, not better) yes you can get camber adjustable coilovers, however generally it is only the front that is camber adjustable.

from memory it's on the passenger side of the engine, either at the front or back

just use the handbrake......... or a clutch kick...

not sure if it's just the pic, but the front wheels look like they stick out a fair way, which looks pretty stupid

from memory the natro and turbo AFMs are the same, so as long as you get the right model (3 wire or 4 wire) then it should be ok. also, what bit did you actually break? i'm just trying to figure out which bit you broke and whether you could work around it

+1. when i lived out on the farm, everytime i used to change the oil i'd tip the old oil on a different fence post around the yard. works well at stopping them rotting, etc.

actually a diesel will probably spend more time on boost than a petrol car. but to answer the original question, if cars actually NEEDED turbo timers they would be fitted with them standard. as someone said earlier, just take it easier for the last minute or 2 of driving. this will cool the turbo more than sitting there idling for a minute or 2 as there is more air flowing throught the radiator, etc.

a mate of mine was a mechanic for repco a few years ago (the local repco store had a workshop on the side of it) and one day the nulon rep came through and had an octane test kit with him. my mate grabbed some BP ultimate out of his car and they ran a few tests. first they tested the fuel by itself. it was 98 octane (as you wuold expect). next they put in the standard measure of the pro strength octane booster (i think. this was about 5 years ago now so the memory is a bit dodgy). pretty sure this put it up to about 103 octane. then they put in double the normal dosage. the octane rating actually dropped back down to around 99 octane.

baaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahahahahaha, i love this forum. the speed limits apply at all times of day. you might want to learn this. i'm not perfect but i'm smart enough to know that sitting 25 or 30kmh over the limit, no matter what time of day, is asking for trouble. when i do speed i keep it to a level that allows me to still be able to keep my licence, as well as not hurt my wallet much (so less than 10km/h over). points don't bother me as i still have all 12 of mine.

blue/white smoke = oil = bad news. get a compression check done.

fixed for teh LULZ

yes it fits on. pretty sure the stock turbo exhaust is a bit bigger than the natro (vaguely remember someone saying it is 2.5") and it's a good upgrade as you get better flow but because it is a factory exhaust it has good mufflers in it so you don't end up with an exhaust that drones

do the gloveboxes in the 32 slide into place (can you remove them by opening then pulling them up, or something like that). if you can, then it may be worth looking at pulling it out and putting a bit of plastic or cardboard at the bottom of the slot that it sits it so that the glovebox sits higher. this should make the latch have better contact. or have a look at the latch and see if can be moved up at all.

heat range 8 plugs are pretty darn cold. for the power you are making i would suggest maybe going back to a heat range 7 plug. as for the iridium/platinum/copper debate, my personal opinion is to stick with copper. they give the best spark and don't last that much shorter than iridiums. for mostly highway driving you should get around 20,000kms out of them, which is about the same as some people are getting out of iridiums (some get more, some get less). also plugs aren't that hard to change. it is made a lot easier if you pull all the coils out at once rather than individually. you can undo 2 or 3 bolts that allows you to lift all the coils out at once rather than undoing 4 bolts per coil.