mad082

i got 2nd on my first attempt of that race. cbf'd doing it again. figured 2nd was good enough for now. haven't had enough time to play it again and i'm pretty sure it gets removed today. the latest round of seasonal events are super easy (as someone said earlier). i've done the 3 hardest ones and won all of them by large margins. the lotus one i was in the lead by the first corner of lap 3 (overtook first about 100m after the start/finish line). last time check i saw was about 50 seconds. the one in the ford was pretty easy, and the one in the rally car was super easy. it was probably the easiest of the lot.

turbo timer or not you'd simply pull up, turn the car off and go. doing it once isn't going to hurt the car. for all anyone knows, the owner of their skyline back in japan may have done it every single time they drove it. you could always wire it up to both the handbrake and the neutral switch (ecu gets a signal from the gearbox telling it whether it's in gear or neutral to alter the mapping in the ecu). that way if it is in gear then the car won't even attempt to start. yeah excess idling isn't the best thing for a car. this is actually a reason against letting your car sit there and idle to warm up agasint driving slowly for the first little while. the car takes longer to warm up when idling than it does when driving.

on sunday arvo (or was it saturday arvo???) i saw 4 skylines in gympie. couple of 33's and a green r32 4 door.

firstly, did you consider that maybe the cars have been modified to make them more competetive in the race? shaun, i had one in the used car lot for a week or so. now they generally have one in the online car lot. costs 4.8 million

that is the one. don't let its easy location fool you. as victory said, the hoses can be a pain to get off. also make sure you remove the fuel filler cap (and leave it off till you are done) to release the pressure from the tank otherwise fuel will keep flowing out

i think what boz means is that he is a computer nerd and in his opinion they are crap compared to his super high tech latest model computer that he looks at his fatty pr0n on.

you sir, are an idiot.

the bov is going to be a large part of the problem. probably not the whole problem, but a large part of it.

there is probably a torque setting they should be at and there is most definately a correct order to do it at (starting at the middle ones and working out in a cross pattern most likely).

parts are relatively easy to get these days. a large amount of parts are available through nissan, general car parts places (autobarn, repco, etc) and over the internet.

starter is on the drivers side of the engine, below the intake manifold.

personally i think a lot of it comes from a mix of misguided information, and people being what i like to call brand whores. as well as a lot of import owners thinking their car is something it isn't. the majority of imports (including skylines) are just ordinary cars. there isn't nothing mystical them. the majority of owner of them in japan were probably just family type people who bought them because they thought they looked nice and went ok (the same reason why someone here might buy a commodore or a falcon or even something like a lancer). half of them probably weren't even serviced regularly. then they get bought buy some young enthusiast in australia who thinke they are some spectacular road going race car and that they need to be treated differently to any other car that has ever been made. ryco filters would be used on probably hundreds of thousands of cars on australian roads. they are probably regarded as the industry standard of the non-genuine filters.

check the little hose (like a piece of vacuum line) that runs to the vent on the dash (small little hole or a few small holes to the left of the steering wheel, not a proper air vent). pretty sure the climate control uses this to suck a bit of air back in to gauge the temperature.

well of course if you do a bang for buck. but at the same time a datsun with a sr20 bolted in it will beat a skyline in bang for buck as well. you can't compare a new car to an old car in a "bang for buck" situation because the new car is always going to lose due to the price. that doesn't make the skyline a "better" car, simlpy a decent car at a low price. hell, compare a 2007 r35 GTR to an 2010 or 11 one and the new one looks pretty shit, even though they are the same car, just one is new and one isn't. it's a totally pointless comparison. using your theory it also means that the r33 GTS-t is THE BEST skyline currently available (or you could possibly say the r31). even better than an R34 GTR. they are dirt cheap (the cheapest of the turbo skylines), and it will go as fast as, or close enough to any of the other skylines. so bang for your buck the r33 GTS-t is the best skyline. it also means that out of the GTRs the r33 and r32 would be in a close race to be the winner (although it would most likely be taken out by the very early model r32's which are most prone to oil starvation issues when tracked and have a slower ATESSA system and are getting a bit long in the tooth now), but both being much better than the r34, which is obviously just a waste of money and therefor a shit choice...... out of the natros the aussie r31's must be the best bang for your buck choice. can be bought for next to nothing and with a few minor mods can be nearly as fast as an r33 or r34. although a vn commodore is a much better choice since they can be picked up for a few hundred dollars and are just as fast, if not faster than a r33 or r34 natro. why spend $8000, or $10000 on a natro 33 or 34 when you can spend $500 on a dirty old vn commodore or ea falcon and have a car that is just as fast? do you see my point yet? if you can justify properly why someone looking for a natro skyline should spend their money on a skyline instead of a cheap hunk of shit commodore (with valid points and not just saying "commodores are shit", etc", then i will drop this. if you can't (which is almost certain) then it validates my point that comparing a new car to an old car, especially using the "bang for your buck" excuse, is absolutely pointless.

yeah but i also use the ps3 with the playtv, so if i want to watch anything i've recorded i'd either have to wait until i'd done the race (wouldn't be a popular decision with the missus, or myself for that matter), or quit the game.

yeah sounds like either a wiring issue or a starter motor issue. try the old "hit the starter motor with a hammer/engineers hammer (AKA shifter) while turning the key" trick and see if that does anything.

the ecu controls the idle via the IAC and AAC valves. these control the amount of air going into the engine to keep the idle right. if these get sticky or a bit blocked then the ecu can't control the idle properly. cleaning them with carby cleaner would be the first thing to try. other things to possibly look at though would be the spark plugs, coils, AFM, 02 sensor or even injectors, however i'd start with the IAC/AAC valve and then look at the spark plugs if it is still doing it.

couldn't possibly be the pump vibrating on the bracket, or the bracket vibrating against the tank?

for number 3: the skyline isn't a pure sports car, it is a sporty family car. the GTR is a sports car, the rest aren't (S series cars are more sports cars than GTS and GTS-t skylines). anyone that says that they are, well then you should also say that a bog standard 1.5L lancer is also a sports car because the EVO is and they are from the same platform. you still can't compare a stock new car to a modified older car. or even a stock old car to a modified old car. if you take a VS commodore that someone has bolted some turbos or supercharger to and compare it to a skyline then the skyline might be the slower of the 2, even if it is midly modded, and the commodore would probably cost half of the skyline to buy (including the modifications). or you could buy a stock BA xr6t for 15 or 20k, spend 20 or 30k on modifying it and have it faster in a straight line or around a track than an r35 GTR at half the cost. basically my point is that it is a pointless comparison.

i'm still going because i still have to get my B-spec up, as well as i still have some of the extreme events to go (think i've done 3 out of the 9 different categories). if it wasn't for the seasonal races though i think it would get old pretty quickly once i'm done with those. it is a somewhat smaller game without all the manufacturer and country challenges, etc.

2 things to take into consideration. 1: price when new (taking into account inflation) probably wasn't that far off the HSV's (for example, the ADM r32 GTRs were $100,000, while at the time the top model HSV was only about $50,000), 2: in a crash the HSV would greatly out perform the skyline as far as safety goes, 3: comfort wise the HSV shits all over the 33, 4: the new cars have to meet much stricter emissions standards, and therefore are pretty drastically under tuned. throw an aftermarket tune on a new commodore or falcon and the power increase is pretty impressive. i'm not saying that skylines are shit or that commodores are great, simply that if you are going to compare them, at least do it on a level playing field.

i had a go with 2 different ones (both late models). what gets me is that the minimum weight is about 800kg, yet mine with full weight reduction still weighed over 1000kg (i think) so i was wondering if either there was a race version you could use, or there was an early model that you could buy, but i never saw one come up for sale. i think the earliest i saw was about a 90 model.

are you refering to a stock skyline or a modified skyline, cause a stock skyline will get absolutely hosed by most new $60,000 fords and holdens. if you are comparing a modified skyline to a stock ford/holden well then that is a slightly disadvantaged comparison. compare an equally modified ford/holden to the skyline and again, the skyline will more than likely get hosed.

if it is the fuel pump it would sound like it's coming from the rear of the car. it may be something like the throw out bearing in the clutch of something like that.

ok a few things, 1: what temp sensor is being used? the rb25 one? 2: how has the speed limiter been removed? has the speed wire been cut or is it a remapped ecu? if the car is running at 102 degrees then it is way too hot. either the thermostat is shagged, or the water pump, or the radiator..... or a combination of the 3. the stock vicous clutch fan are actually a very good system when (when in good working order) and are not worth replacing unless the clutch has stuffed up. running the 3.0L engine off the 25 mapping is more than likely causing issues. are you still running the stock 25 injectors? if not then that will be part of the problem. A/F reading will have very little to do with the problem because you can run the car perfectly fine without an o2 sensor. however the EGT reading interests me since the rb25's never had an EGT sensor as far as i am aware.