mad082

Don't bother doing too much upgrading, it isn't worth it (this goes for any bike). just get some skinny road tyres (700 x 23c) and if it has an adjustable stem get a fixed stem. if u really must spend money on it get some carbon forks. may be a bit hard to find them with v brake mounts though. they will make the ride a bit smoother

Ok so i had a look at the specs. If the giant is in fact the cross city 1 and you can get it for $1000 (rrp of $1299) then do it. It's a much better bike than the gt. Even if it is the cross city 2 then i'd still go it (but change the stem to a fixed stem as the adjustable ones are shit).

Ahaha yeah i did the same thing.

You gott be slupstreaming. I'm using the same car and i'm 2 seconds off you time

Are you doing straight lap time or with some slipstreaming?

my level 20 guy got flogged by your level 30 something guys in a race i hosted yesterday. But the my level 0 guy came in last but only 2 seconds behind the next car. Think there may have been a bit of a crash though.

I can't add you at the moment due to the missus watching tv, but you can add me (psn mad-082) and run a few races with my drivers. I have 1 or 2 with very low levels so your driver should be able to win the race.

I did a wet race (think it was monza in the polyphony cup) and i started on wets and i found that after a few laps a dry line started to appear, although i only discover it was happening from playing around with the view and driving off line on purpose and seeing the change in the ammount of spray off the tyres.

I've been meaning to to see if i can make a drag strip

sif not be able to write turkey and not have it turn into the sphincter of the universe and the thread needs more hot russian babes

i wouldn't be too concerned about which way the sticker is facing, however if you are, you could get the century NS40Z. it's the same battery as what you have but with the terminals reversed.

you may have to pop the bonnet and do it from there, but it may be stuck on there with something like sikaflex or windscreen sealant and won't come off easily.

there is a chance the alternator is ok but the wiring is the problem. check the voltage at the alternator (although i have a feeling that if the earth to the alternator is dicky then it will lower the voltage reading you get there too).

if there is no seperate ignitor unit (and the car runs fine) then you need series 2 coils, regardless of whether the rest of the engine is a series 1 or not.

what ignitor unit are you using? the stock rb20 one? that may be the problem as they do get a bit dicky after time. if the problem is worse when the car has been running for a bit, then i would start there.

the car should start with a dead AFM (usually just won't rev over 2500rpm, and won't idle very well). do the usual tests. grab a spare sparkplug and make sure the engine is getting spark, make sure the fuel pump is priming, etc. if there is no spark i'd start with the CAS.

putting in a dead stock turbo engine will give you more power (and more reliable power) than putting in a natro motor and modding it up to get a reasonable gain.

jap wreckers? normal wreckers and see if one of a different model car fits?

nah, in a straight line the evo 9 is quicker than a evo 10 (and all the stats on paper make it look faster than the newer version), however around a track the evo 10 is usually quicker.

exactly right. the rb are an alloy head, but still a cast iron block. also the CA isn't a RB26 with 2 pots cut off. they are a similar design to the RB engine, but aren't simply a 4 cylinder version of it.

Ok suzuka bites the big penis. After about 20 attempts the furthest i have gotten is about 30 seconds into the first lap, which is still a few corners before the hairpin, so i'm giving up. Not even going to bother trying it again. It would be ok if you could at least finish the race when you get dq'd so you can learn the car and the track, but instead you have to learn 1 corner per attempt, if you are lucky to make it to a new corner. Over half of my dq's were on the first corner

I just managed to get bronze on the first 2 Sebastian vettel challenges (using a controller with all assists off except for traction). Now for suzuka which i think will take a while. Monza was the easiest. Took about 20 mins of trying

Also if you don't know what you are doing you can end up damaging the rim

To build a truing stand out of a set of forks won't work that well because rear hubs are much wider than fronts. Can't really say what labour will be but i would say to expect around $100 for both wheels to be built

Yeah sun rims aren't bad. I know we have a second hand set of dt swiss wheels (complete wheels) at work.