mad082

unless you are driving in dusty conditions you don't have to worry too much about how much crap they let in, but i would still look at replacing it with something a bit better.

bugger. must be some decent maintenance since it's been down for a day or 2 now.

vt wagon. auto, lowered (needs a camber kit), 18's with near new tyres, 2.5" catback, tinted windows (legal darkness), 201,000kms and most importantly, cruise control (since i drive 67kms to work). cost me $3550. looked like arse until i gave it a cut and polish (probably hadn't been polished in a few years. the paint looked like matt white instead of gloss white). didn't buy it for the mods, bought it cause it was in my price range and was in decent condition and was one of the few that came with a RWC in that price range.

do a search on here. i can't remember how to do it. i think you can bridge 2 wires on the diagnostics port, but i'm not sure with skylines. i just have a consult cable, lol.

originally any sporty japanese car with a small engine was considered rice, reguardless of whether it was kitted out or slow. you could have a stock car that was fast, but if it was japanese and had a small engine then it was rice. times have changed though. now rice means a car that has stupid mods. this can be a car from any country and the car can still be fast or slow. you can have a worked skyline that is still considered rice if the mods are over the top. or you can have a commodore that is rice. the only thing is that the lines get blurred a lot. for example, a cannon exhaust on a silvia or skyline or evo, but put a cannon or a hyundai and it is rice. or you can put a gtr kit on a gts and it's ok, but put an evo kit on a lancer and it's rice. plenty of double standards. i generally try to not discriminate. i think modded natro skylines are just as bad as lancers, etc, lol. as for the cobalt and neons, in stock form they aren't rice. if modded they can be.

problem will not be r&r, so ignore all posts about that. if it is only when cornering it is going to be an electrical issue where something is losing contact while cornering. i would hazzard a guess and say the afm. try checking the fault codes.

check the DIY section for a thread on wasted spark setups. has been done before by a few people, generally with good results.

when i bought my commodore last month, the ad had been on carsales for about a day (i was checking every few days looking for a car that fittted my requirements). i sent the guy a text asking if i could see the car. he sent me the details etc. this was at about lunch time and i said i was going to look at it after work. a bit later on i get a message saying that the car was sold. then just before 5 i get another message asking if i still wanted to go view the car because the guy who had said he was going to buy it was a scammer.

put the old plugs back in. if the miss goes away then you no it's am issue with the plugs. if the issue stays then i think you will find that the issue is with the coils. may have been a bit dodgy before hand and in the process of changing the plugs the got damaged and now they are worse.

just go a rb25, or a turbo engine. if you are a P plater then putting in a rb30 will be just as illegal as putting in a turbo motor

i see plenty of skylines these days. i'm working at noosa these days at a bike shop next to/across the road from bridgestone on eumundi-noosa road.

i ran my skyline on a different series ecu for about 8 months with no issues. both series one and series two have VCT and as for ignition timing, the difference in the tune is extremely limited (since power output is the same) so it is negligable. unless you are one of the people who think that the series 2 has the ignitor built into the ecu and that is what you meant by ignition timing. either way i think you need to do some more research on what the actual differences are in the skylines as the differences between the s1 and s2 aren't enough to stop the ecu's being interchangable.

for it to be a profitable business it would need to have all the things list above by someone (food, etc), but it still would struggle as public liability insurance would be extremely expensive. prices would have to be higher than what was listed above. the only way it could be viable for someone to do is if it was a mechanics workshop with a spare hoist or 2 where people can do DIY work. that way it is a viable business making a side income.

it is advisable to have one. helps give it a proper seal since the copper is soft and squashes more and makes it all even. same principle as why cars have head gaskets and exhaust gaskets

that is a bit of a myth i think (same with sr20 na t/b's being bigger than turbo ones. only applies in 1 model, which i think is the s15). seems to be plenty of people who think it is the case, but pretty much no one has ever properly measured

the km's could be legit even if the condition of the car is pretty ordinary (not everyone treats their car great. i've seen near new cars with low kms but in terrible condition and vice versa). generally though it is a good indicator. the kms on an import are very rarely legit though. the missus pulsar is a 2000 model and only has 70,000kms on it. would've been less but we went back to 1 car for a while. at one point when we had 2 cars though, her car would've been lucky to do 50kms a month as we always took my car. sometimes her car would go a week or 2 without even being started.

ecutalk is good for viewing data. some others are good for diagnostic tests.

how many Litres are you calling a full tank? you may just have a dodgy fuel gauge, or possibly a fuel leak. also might be worth checking your o2 sensor why not use throttle body/carby cleaner? as with my reply to my first post, how many Litres are you calling a tank? i have an auto vt commodore wagon. has 18" wheels and is lowered (both add to fuel consumption. wider tyres = more resistance and heavier rims take more power to turn. lowered = poor alignment of the rear wheels because of the change in camber and toe) and it has over 200,000kms on it, so hardly as fresh as it was. i drive 67.5kms to work everyday. about 55kms of the trip is highway, and there is a 1.2km rather steep hill a few kms from work that takes a reasonable amount of accelerator. i've had the car for just over a month now and the best economy i've gotten was 8.86L/100kms. that;s on e10. on premium i could probably get a bit better, but i doubt it would be worth the extra money it would cost, and after all, it's only a dirty old commodore, so i don't care what i put in it.

1st result in the DIY section when i searched "heater" http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/280174-removal-replacement-of-heater-core-skyline-the-right-way-without-removing-the-dash-at-all/page__hl__heater

nothing to worry about since the car wasn't running. the coolant keeps flowing to a certain extent when the car is off so it keeps drawing heat out of the engine but not as fast and the coolant isn't being cooled much by the radiator. some cars with thermo fans controlled by the ecu don't have the fan come on until up around 100 degrees. the fact that the temp started dropping as soon as the car started running then you know that your cooling system is working.

could be anywhere from free to about $30. at work we charge $10 to change a tyre/tube per wheel off the bike (few dollars more if they are on the bike). cassette is pretty simply to change, you just need 2 tools to get it off, 1 to get it back on. but seriously, the shop should do it for free if you ask nicely, especially since you are spending a few hundred on wheels.

The hubs will be longer lasting, but no point looking at new wheels till the old wheels are stuffed, which if they are adjusted and lubricated properly shouldn't be for quite a while. Yes the gator skin tyres are a more puncture resistant tyre, as long as the punctures are from glass, thorns, etc. They will still get pinch flats like any other tyre as they have more to do with tyre pressure

That's why you find a bike that is as close to what you want and then try and do a deal with the shop to upgrade the parts you want to change and have them keep your old parts, or just a discount on all the other parts you want to buy as they will usually do a better deal if you buy it all at once.

Probably not much different, especially with freight. Why change the rims though? Won't do shit for stopping flats (if that is why you are wanting them). Cheaper, more flexible rims actually get less flats, from hitting bumps at least, than stiff rims since the rim has a bit of give in it

I know the grips you are talking about. I think we sell them too. Do yours have clamps built into them to clamp them on the bar? If so then yes we do. Also a tip for if they are, get some torque head bolts to replace the allen key ones. Nee-san, a flatbar road bike will get you a better bike than a roadie for the same money. That giant cross city at $1200rrp is a pretty good buy. Runs 105 10 speed, which comes on a roadie from about $1800 to $3000. Xalmon, it always works out much more expensive to build a bike than to buy a complete. To put it into perspective, when i got the missus her road bike, it was cheaper for me to buy a second bike with all the gear i wanted (since she didn't like the colour of the bike that had the better spec on it) than it was to buy the groupset and wheels by about 30%, and that was at wholesale, so once you take into account the extra mark-up put on parts compare to complete bikes and it would cost about 50% more. Plus if you get a complete you can sell the old bike off and get some money back. You don't get as much back on individual parts. The only advantage of doing individual parts is that you can do it slowly over time as you get the money.