mad082

if you do get a pulsar, first thing you should do (if the laws allow it for you) is a full exhaust. extractors make a big difference to the SSS (speaking from experience).

i've had my learners for 10 years, LOL

the actual front damage on that looks to be pretty minimal. don't think it was a very hard impact front on. side on was a bit bigger though, lol

it really comes down to the car. i know some makes where changing the headers don't do squat because the cams are where the restriction lies (3.5L magnas are a perfect example) yet other cars can make a massive difference (such as SSS pulsars where the car is totally different to drive afterwards)

also you would lose torque. same goes for when you put a lightened flywheel in a car. it will rev up quicker but when you come to a hill it will also slow down quicker. also makes it easier to bog down off the line.

ahahahaha, and zip-ties add more killerwasps

and cara i hope the front bar is going to sit further back than in those pics. the massive difference in the wheel arch area looks super dodgy. but then if it does sit back the headlights will sit out from it a bit and look dodgy. my other question is, how small is the output (projected area) of your headlights? because the eyelids top and bottom look like they would dramatically reduce your vision at night, which, no offense, i find really really stupid. "hey i can't see shit at night, but at least i look cool during the day...."

bahahaha i just had to

big w have the new ps3 listed at $488, and dick smith have them down for $499 with some batman game. but i am still waiting for GT5, and i'm not really allowed to get one until then, LOL. but that doesn't bother me much as i don't have much interest in many games other than the GT series

it could also be the steering wheel sensor. i think there is also a solenoid that alters the weight of the steering (controls the fluid flow).

you would be suprised as to how much lower the car will be after just getting springs that lower the car 30mm. 2 things happen if you go lower with stock shocks. 1: the ride gets rougher because the springs have to be a higher rate and you also run the risk of the shocks bottoming out which not only ruins the shocks quicker but gives a much harsher ride. the second thing is that the lower you go the more the camber is affected at the rear and this isn't always fixed with a single camber kit.

actually they would've known that it could phsically be done, but that it would result in a car with much less power than a normal NA version and couldn't be bothered wasting their time on such a pointless excercise. i'm pretty sure that someone in another thread said that their mate did this and on the dyno the car only made 65kw at the wheels. infact i found a link to the guys post. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4775249

this is when being one of the other millions of people driving a commodore with stock rims comes in very handy. if you haven't to have lapse of judgment and do a burnout and some old lady rings the police to report it and doesn't get your licence plate, they aren't really going to bother keeping an eye out for a car that heaps of people have, where as if you have a skyline with a custom paint job or something like that, it suddenly narrows the list of possible suspects down quite a lot, LOL

and have a rope tied to ANY tool you even place near the engine bay, and magnetise any screwdriver or socket you use with the strongest magnet you can find to minimise the loss of nuts and bolts. abd as well as small yet strong hands, don't forget being quadrouple jointed. basically the ability to be able to lay your fingers flat on the back of your hand, LOL

ahahaha, i had a similar issue when i put a emanage ultimate in a mates 33. was running the car with it plugged in, then turned the car off to dick around for a bit with some settings, went to start the car again, nothing. wouldn't turn over. dash lights came on but that was it. tried to roll start it, still wouldn't go. got a new battery, still nothing. got it towed back to my place, decided to unplug the emanage harness and just use the stock ecu and it started first go and ran like a dream. then went to turn the key off and happened to bump the harness as i was doing so (was in the passenger seat and leaning over to turn the key off and bumped the harness with my foot) and the car stopped. plugged the emanage back in, made sure the harness was in at the sides and it started again.

drill some new holes and get some zip-ties.

my father in law works for a place that makes step side bodies for the old F trucks and his boss's wife has one. they only just got it fully together earlier this year after a few years (was only worked when they weren't busy). it started out in pretty bad shape. don't think it was complete to start with.

i'm not. at 255kmh hitting something that is pretty much not moving is going to make a f**king big mess. it would hit with the same force as a head on collision where both objects are traveling at close to 130kmh

you've obviously never seen the engine bay of a z32 then, LOL. so he may have exagerated a bit on the time thing. if you have one of those magnetic tool things they it is only about 20 mins to get the tool into your hand. but without it, if you drop a tool, don't expect to see it again. you will just be driving along, hear a bit of a ting and know that your tool just fell out and will have bounced off the road and into the grass on the side of the road.

it also depends where you live. i live in a small town and i have had 2 imports, both turbo, and only ever been pulled over once in them and that was for a random licence check. can't really say it was because of my car because after driving for about 10 mins i hadn't seen another car on the road, so i'd say it was more because the cops were bored. but they never asked me to pop the bonnet or anything like that. the cops round here seem to know that it is the bogans in commodores who are more than likely going to have bald tyres, etc. plus one of the cops here owns a 33. also having things that scream "pull me over" like blue LED number plate lights are going to get you pulled over no matter what you drive.

i'm guessing that it is a tight fit? there is only really one way. pump it up until it pops into place. if you get to 100psi and it hasn't popped yet, let the tyre back down to about 15psi, try and pop it out a bit by hand (to do this you have the bit that isn't sitting in place facing towards you then grip the tyre and try to roll it off the other side of the rim) then pump it back up again. i am only using 100psi as a guide as it depends on what the max reccommended pressure of the tyre is. if the max pressure is only 60psi then you wouldn't want to go much past about 80psi. however if the max pressure is 90psi then you can go to about 130psi (although it will usually pop out about 110psi). you can also try wiping a few small amount of washing up liquid around the bead of the tyre before pumping it up this will make it a little bit more slippery and pop into place better when it is pumped up

that is actually incorrect. they aren't really much heavier than a skyline (depending on the model), but the reason they don't pull super hard is their tall gearing. to put it into perspective, the first gear on an auto v6 commodore is roughly as tall as second gear on manual 33. tha manual cars are not quite as tall, but still taller geared than a skyline. so next time you are out for a drive, try taking off hard in second gear and see how much slower it is, then keep that in mind next time you race a commodore or falcon. it puts into perspective just how well they perform considering this fact. that said, i have owned a few aussie 6's and driven plenty more, and in manual form they are very quick in the low rpm area. as i said above, because of the tall gears they won't rev out quickly like a smaller engine with shorter gears, but the speed will rise quicker when compared with the rpm. you can feel the torque of them. that 1500 to 3000rpm power is very linear. what makes them feel slower is the fact that they don't have that urge come on higher in the rev range where the acceleration goes from being good to great. anyone who has driven a turbo s13 (or r32) then hoped into a turbo 33 will understand. the s13 is pretty average below about 4000rpm then it comes on nice and hard, however the 33 is nearly on full boost by 2500rpm so it doesn't feel as wild as the power is there from the moment you put your foot down so you don't get the rush, yet side by side they will perform pretty much evenly.

there are plenty of tidy n15 SSS out there. just don't bother looking at any that have a sports exhaust or big wheels. there have been plenty popping up with around 50,000kms on the clock that have been owned by elderly people as of late, which is very good for a 10 year old car (that isn't from japan where most people will use public transport even if they own a car, and where they odometers usually get 'altered' before people import them here).

could possibly be the light in the boot staying on

if it is the one i am thinking of it is the exhaust temp sensor warning light. this is to signal if the exhaust temps are too high (like seriously high). however this light commonly comes on due to an electrical short. if i remember correctly the plug for it is under the passenger seat. it can be unplugged and forgotten about. my light used to sometimes come on the moment i turned key to ON in the morning before i even started the car.