mad082

it is extremely easy to do. buy a new bov, send it to a factory in china, get them to replicate it, tell them how cheap you want them to be and away you go. seems to be that they will change one of 2 little things to make it obvious to someone who looks closely enough to see that it is fake, but close enough to fool 99.9% of people. i know that with some stuff they will simply alter the spelling of the name. it happens with holley carbies. they just spell it holly on the fakes

what is the issue with fwd? if you can't drive a fwd fast then you're just a crap driver, LOL

they are a 2.5L engine, so will the be fast in the low rev range? no small engines and fast in low rev range doesn't really go together. that is why they rev up to 7000rpm. if you want speed without reving high, then go a falcon or commodore.

and won't have much trouble finding you as they will be able to hear you from 3 suburbs away, LOL the car is a NA. it will need mufflers to be quiet. a turbo on the other hand will be much more quiet with the same system

the car will start on less than 6 cylinders. it will run on about 4 (not sure about starting though). if you are concerned about the injectors then i would get them professionally cleaned. it should cost around $200 to get all 6 done and it gives a much better result than injector cleaner you put in the tank. i wouldn't bother about the fuel pump. it is pumping fuel so it is fine. fuel pumps generally pump just as hard at idle as they do at high rpm (although some cars don't). so as long as it is pumping fuel then it is fine.

LOL

first of all, a gtr isn't a v6, it's a straight 6. same goes for the supra secondly, i'm pretty sure a s2000 will be out of your power/weight range, and if it isn't then the insurance on it for someone your age will be very high (i wouldn't be suprised if it was over $5000 for full comp) thirdly, you would probably be better off going to a gts-t before going to the gtr. going from a NA to a gtr is going to be a very big jump in performance, and just having driven a NA isn't going to help that much as they are going to be totally different to drive. if you are going to be driving it sensibly without boosting it everywhere (not going to happen) then you could go from driving a suzuki mightyboy to a gtr without any issues, but since that (driving sensibly after buying a turbo car) only happens in make believe, going from any NA to something like a gtr could possibly end in tears. yes i'm sure people have done it without any incidents, but going off how many people have incidents in NA cars, let alone turbo cars, i wouldn't be making the jump in 1 hit. the other thing to consider is that the gtr's aren't as cheap to own as their rb25 powered little brother. they are getting on a bit now, so reliability is becoming a bit more of an issue, and if something does happen to let go, it is going to be more expensive to fix. also for the cost of a gtr, you can easily get a gtst to be just as fast, if not faster.

dude, don't just whore to get your 10 posts so you can PM.

if you car is stock, then they don't really have to know that much about skylines as there is very little that they can actually do other than adjust the timing and put new spark plugs and fuel filter in as far as a tune up goes, which any mechanic should be able to manage easily. full service can also be done by any mechanic as it isn't exactly rocket science to remove a sump plug and oil filter, and this isn't something that only skylines have.

i had a dump pipe like that on my 33, however before i put it on i had to fix up a few issues with it. i made sure that the divider was as far down as it would go so it wouldn't foul on the wastegate flap. to do this loosen the 2 bolts about a turn, push the divider towards the bigger hole then tighten the 2 bolts back up. the second thing i did was grind out where the wastegate pipe joined back into the main pipe. on mine it had been welded majorly crooked so there was an overhang of about 1cm x 2cm of pipe that would've restricted flow of the wastegate gases. this may be a similar issue to what you are having. if the wastegate flap is moving properly but you are still having issues with higher boost then it may be that you have a similar issue and the wastegate gases are being restricted, forcing them to go through the exhaust wheel, creating higher pressure. as for the issue of it not boosting in 3rd gear, that is a prime example of a wastegate not closing. this can be caused by 2 things. 1 is the dump pipe fouling the wastegate flap, the other is a dodgy boost controller. i had this exact issue when i had a turbosmart boost controller on my car. i would boost it up, change gears and even at 4000rpm in the next gear i would have zero pressure. if i lifted off again and stayed off the throttle for a few second then accelerated again it would boost up fine. pulled the controller off and put my old turbotech one on and never had the problem again.

*sheepishly puts up hand i did that. combined with putting a screw into the hole that jase also mentioned you got a bit of a flutter when lifting off from light throttle. but it was only like half a flutter. it was sort of a FFFT FFFT FSSSSSHH. so it fluttered once or twice then just dumped as normal. if you do decide to squash it in, you sit a socket on it (i think about a 21mm is about the right size) and then give it a few gentle yet firm hits. be warned that you can squash it too much. it is best to measure the height of the hat before you start so that after each hit you know how much you have squashed it. you only need to squash it a few mm. other than that, if you want the full hektic flutters then you need to go aftermarket bov.

most of the stuff i order from my local repco is here that afternoon (if ordered on my way to work), and we nearly 200km from brizzy. but then it may be something that is sent out using the companies preffered courier so they can't just have a same day courier turn up and get it. however you should be able to get the old ones off pretty easily even if they haven't been taken off since new. just simply remove the clamps and twist them back and forth until they let go. or get a plastic knife and slide it under the hose and move around the hose until it loosens up a bit. i have never had any issues taking hoses off cars. infact i took a radiator hose off my old commodore that hadn't been removed in probably 10 years (the car hadn't only been started about 3 times in the last 5 years for that matter). i just did the twist trick.

LOL, a guy i used to work with had a 1200 ute and he used to be in 3rd gear by the time he got across the traffic lights, although he was only doing about 40km/h, LOL but tell him to ditch the 1.8L and get a worked L20. can get around 115-120kw out of them if you don't mind replacing headgaskets at every oil change, LOL

as has been said, no LHD skylines, but you can get LHD 200sx's though

datsun with sr20 or a built L20 (a mate of mine had one putting out 155hp at the wheels, non turbo) mitsubishi sigma with sr20 (same mate that had the built L20 had a sigma with sr20 running mid 12's on stock ecu and turbo) gemini with sr20 ke70 with either sr20 or 4age/4agze LC/H/J torana with a built 186 or 202, or sr20 or rb25 in it i have to say that despite not being a fan of torana's, my brother in law has a very worked 186 in it (big cam, bored out to about 196, bigger carbies, etc) and it sounds very tough and goes very well. and looks pretty good too.

it depends. it can mean 3 things really. 1: the oil seal in the front of the turbo is shot (not good, but fixed by replacing the turbo and doesn't damage the engine or turbo). although it is common for there to be a very small amount of oil make it past the seal which is nothing to worry about. 2: the engine has some issues with oil coming through the breather hoses caused by blow by (also not too good). both of these issues will be accompanied by the oil level dropping between changes if it is bad enough. that brings us to number 3: the car has had either of the issues in the past, but is all good now and the oil is just there because the pipes weren't cleaned out after the issue was sorted.

there is a tutorial on adjusting the cluster on this forum somewhere. it is done by soldering up jumpers on the back of the speedo. also if you converted the car from auto to manual and didn't change the diff then it will read out as well because the auto diff ratio is different and the speedo reads from the gearbox.

since he has a consult cable he can do all of that much more easily through a consult program without losing all of his settings in his stereo, LOL. also he can put the car into base idle mode with the consult without having to unplug anything.

the aircon will always be cooler when the car is moving, this is because of 2 things. 1: not as much air flowing through the condenser. 2: at idle the air con compressor isn't spinning at optimum levels. you will find that if you rev the car up to about 1300rpm or so it will be much better. it could also be that your gas level is getting low.

it is common for the radiator to be slightly blocked (which flushing doesn't clean out) and that reduces the amount it takes. also it isn't just the heater hoses that hold some of the fluid but the heater core as well. and without knowing how exactly you drained the coolant it is hard to say how much coolant was left in there. i know that when i drained my 33 i put about 7.5L back in (says it is supposed to take 8.5L)

is it only if you are giving it a boot or is it even under light acceleration? if only when you give it the beans then it could be that once it comes on boost it is forcing open a gap somewhere (such as a split cooler pipe or joiner) which is making it run very rich and making it stall.

the easiest way to test victory's theory is to turn the key to ON at night, then while looking at the lights, turn the lights on. if the lights in the aircon, etc, don't dim then you know that is the problem. if they do, then you know there is something else going on. also not all cars get dimmers fitted when they are complied. my r33 never had one, and neither did my 180sx. the ones that i have seen that have had them fitted are the stalk type. they have a post that sticks out with a knob on it (unlike the factory fitted ones that are a roller type). i have seen them located anywhere from either side of the dash near the base of the steering column to down near the fuse panel on either side of the steering column.

that will be a fuel.spark issue causing it to run on 2 or 4 cylinders. could be something as simply as a plug on a coil has come loose from when you changed the plugs.

i'd go with the clean, lol.

they could well be blocked, but you would think that it wouldn't start if they were. have you pulled the spark plugs out to see what they are like? the amount of fuel flowing by the pump shouldn't be an issue. even if it is flowing lots, it isn't like a car with a carby where it will flood it. the fuel pump has a line to the engine and then there is a line that returns to the tank as well. the fuel pump constantly pumps fuel and the amount going into the engine is determined by the injectors. and while the car may run with the AFM unplugged, it will usually run like crap, and if you have weak/fouled plugs it won't run. what happens if you start the car with a little bit of throttle?