mad082

in factory form that is. i'd say that once they are finished with it it will do the job. braking wise it might even out brake the gtr (depending on what tyres they have on it) the best thing i like about this is that they are supplying their own gtr to put around the track, so it will be interesting to see how it's time compares to the nissan time which no-one else seems to be able to replicate. it would be funny if it was found out that some smart-arse nissan engineers had played around with the gtr to make it go faster without telling any of their bosses.

there is twin turbo STS setups. and i thought i read somewhere that they were going to use a twin setup. one advantage they have over normal turbo setups is the dramatically cooler temps that the turbos run at, pretty much eliminating the need for an intercooler, which removes some restriction and increases flow. so that would help solve a bit of the problem of long intake piping.

just wait a few years when the v8 supercars start running 4 or 6 cylinder turbos (it's going to happen). then see if they change their tune.

what happens if you turn the fan speed up? i have had 2 cars (not skylines) where the fan didn't work on number 1 speed, but they did on faster speeds. you put it on 1 and nothing happened. i don't think the clutch engaged or anything. turned out to be some resistor thing for the fan motor. put a new one in and was all good. i think at 1 point when i was diagnosing it i pulled the resistor thing out and turned the fan on and it was on full the whole time, or maybe i shorted the wire across or something, but it made all speeds be full, LOL.

by the shroud, do you mean the plastic piece on the steering column? i would think that only r32 ones fit the r32, but i may be wrong

just remember that you will need some sort of programable ecu or piggyback to use the z32 afm. you can't simply wire it up (won't plug straight in) and have it run properly. it will read different voltages for different amounts of air to the stock sr20 afm. they will both read up to 5v, but the amount of air going through the afm at 5v on the stock afm is going to be a lot less than on the z32 afm at 5v. good upgrade though as the stock SR and CA afm's are very restrictive compared to a RB afm or z32 afm.

anticipating....... LOL

the iridiums and platinums are a waste of money. they don't really last any longer but cost a heap more. you should be able to get the plugs at any store that sells plugs (supercheap, repco, autobarn, etc) as they aren't just used by imports. 1.1mm gap is good if the coils are nice and strong. if they were old then i would say to drop the gap, but since you say they are only 2 months old run the bigger gap in the copper plugs. unless the coils you put in were second hand then it might be a coil issue and not a plug issue (but at less than $30 for a new set of plugs it wouldn't hurt to do them anyway). i also discovered a few weeks back that the BCPR plugs are a taller plug than the BKR plugs (by about 4mm i think it was), so they make better contact with the coils. i ran BCPR6ES in my 33 gts-t and it was fine gapped at 0.8mm. no missfire at all and i was running the stock coils and 14psi.

on my pulsar the timing at idle varies between 15 and 13 degrees but when locked in base idle mode it locks it at 15 degrees. as for the dropping each cylinder, my program does it but i don't know if it records the rpm drop (i have 2 programs that due it but only ever really played round with it once for fun). it doesn't turn them off in sequence though. you just select on which cylinder you want to turn off then click the start (or is it stop???) button and it turns that cylinder off until you click the button again. but it is good. if you find a cylinder low then you can do a compression test and if it is fine then you can simply swap plugs and coils with a different cylinder to see if it is spark or fuel.

wrong thread

the theory is that without a boost controller the wastegate may creep open a little bit before you get to your desired boost, taking the edge off the performance. when a boost controller is added to the equation, as the boost is rising, any creeping is going to be done by the controller and not the wastegate. in the case of an EBC, generally they just vent air before it gets to the actuator and once it gets to the desired boost it allows air to get to the actuator and open the wastegate. this is how some of them have the ability to spike above the set boost and then drop down to the set boost to give slightly better acceleration

as for why you pay money for some programs and not for others, it is kind of like how you can big bucks for anti-virus software or you can get free ones. depends on if it was made by someone who wants to get paid for the hard work they have done, or if it was made by someone who did it out of the kindness of their heart. also the programs that you have to buy often have more functions to them, where as ecutalk more justs reads the data and displays it. having said that, you can usually find someone to supply you with a cracked version of the programs you normally have to pay for.

yeah it is well worth it. i was going to pay that much for it until someone told me about getting it off the forum.

if the afm is dodgy it would affect the car throughout the rev range. i would be starting with the IAC as it is well documented to cause lumpy idle. there would probably be hundreds of threads on sau about it.

gunmetalgrey was the first person to pic up the problem. without the shroud the fan isn't work properly. it is probably only working at 50%, if that. most of the cooling comes from the ends of the fan blades as they are traveling faster then the centre of the fan (same rpm, but at a faster speed). without a proper shroud the fan can just suck air from around the outside of the radiator. personally i, and many others, think that the stock clutch fan works better than most thermos.

get pics of both the switch and the actuator. you say that the hose from the actuator just goes to the turbo. do you mean it is only very short and goes to a nipple on the compressor housing? if so then the turbo isn't the stock one either as the stock turbo doesn't have a nipple on the compressor housing. as for the switch making the revs drop, it would have to be something that is adding extra load as someone said. how much does it drop it by? only 100 or 200rpm? could possibly be an aircon switch if the stock one is dead. maybe try seeing where the wires go

newkleer (the guy who does the displays) is a member on here and he had a sort of group buy going for a while earlier this year. i don't think the display lets you put the car into base idle mode though to properly adjust the idle, but a consult cable will allow you to do this with software such as datascan.

yup. as both said, it's an over temp fan. it's the sort of thing you don't want to hear turn on because it means trouble isn't far away.

before you top up the powersteering fluid just check that you are looking at the right side of the dipstick. it will have a cold measurement and a hot measurement as it changes volume when hot. but both are safe to just top up without doing a bleed

yes, most lumpy idles are caused by either the AAC or IAC. mostly the IAC (idle air control). this will happen when you put your foot on the clutch and it idles like a drag car. do a search on here, it has been covered many times before. it is reasonably easy to do. all you need is some carby cleaner and (from memory) a 12mm spanner. the IAC is situated on the back of the plenum near the firewall.

yeah don't think it should be going anywhere near 2000rpm at idle. i'd say that your IAC is getting a little bit sticky, and your idle screw needs a bit of adjustment. might also be worth cleaning your throttle body.

with some help........

tinting lights (both front and rear) has always puzzled me. while it may look cool (to some people) during the day, at night you are reducing your visibility (more chance of someone running up your arse if they are tinted too dark and when the brakes are on only look as bright as normal lights) and with the headlights you are reducing how bright your lights are. i hate driving cars with dull headlights. now you might think that i should shut my mouth if i have nothing to say, but in fact i was making a point that tinting your lights makes your chances of having an accident higher, and also increases your chance of having your insurance company refuse to pay after said accident because of illegal modifications to lights, and could even possibly have you blamed for the accident if a car runs into the back of you (where as normally it is the person following who is at fault).

yeah i also have one. contact newkleer on here. he is the one who makes the ecutalk stuff. i think he may do a discount for forum members (i know he did for pulsar forum members cause i only paid $60 for my one a few months back). it is good for resetting self learn codes, checking the timing and things like o2 sensor, and if you get some of the other programs for it you can do tests such as switching off cylinders, LOL.

a smaller gap actually gives a stronger spark as it is easy for it to jump the gap so less chance of it misfiring and arcing out somewhere because the gap is too big. a big gap gives a bigger spark but is more likely to misfire. if you look through the pages and pages of misfire threads on here you will find that making the gap smaller has helped in most if them. yes a bigger gap is better as you get a longer spark so better combustion, but if you are getting a misfire at 0.8mm going to a bigger gap won't help.