mad082

i can see how the turbo doesn't lose response. the time from when you lift of the throttle to when the turbo stops spooling is going to be a lot longer as there is still 3m or so worth of pressurised exhaust pipe to empty through the turbo. the response from long periods of closed throttle to flooring it again though would be a bit of an issue, however the speed than both exhaust gases and the pressurised air is travelling at isn't exactly slow. i'm also confused by how the camaro is 'basically a commodore'. while they are similar (built on the same basic platform), they are quite different. for starters the dimensions of wheelbase etc are quite different. also the v6 is a 225kw engine, and the v6 version weighs 60kg less than the v8 version, and because it is less weight over the front wheels it handles better. also the v6 will run mid 14's in stock form, so it isn't exactly slow for a NA 6.

just saw a landcruiser with KARNUT as the plates.....

if it doesn't beat the gtr (or at least get clsoe) there will be something wrong. they are basically taking a street car and turning it into a road legal race car. so they can air aerodynamic aids to give it more downforce, have a suspension setup designed purely for the track (they only said it would be road legal, not comfortable, LOL), etc. then can basically make a race car with number plates. you could beat it with a commodore or falcon if you wanted.

dragons are better than both

wow, this got boring. LOL

how can making the gap bigger solve the issue? if it isn't able to ignite the fuel at 0.8mm gap then going bigger won't help as the spark is stronger at a smaller gap. taping the coils i don't think will help either as they are new coils, so if they are causing the issue then they must be faulty. did you get the right part number coils? although if you got the wrong part number coils i don't think it would even run. i would get it put on the dyno to see what is going on with afr's. could be something like the fpr playing up and dumping in fuel once it comes on boost. could also be an AFM issue. what boost and ecu are you running? if you can, get a hold of a consult cable and a laptop to check for any fault codes. or you can do it by the flashing light but a consult program is much better as you can get someone to drive and make the problem occur while datalogging to look at hings like injectors and ignition timing and afm voltage when the problem occurs.

tony and i were discussing this a few weeks ago (which is probably why he posted this up). the way i see it is that the controller (set at a fraction above the actuator pressure) is delaying when the boost is getting to the actuator giving you a touch better spool up as the wastegate isn't starting to open as the boost is rising.

when i was tuning my mates 33 with a 3076 on it the afm was hitting about 95% at 250kw (336hp), so the afm will still cope with that power level, although it would be wise to go to a bigger afm for safety sake. fuel pump it depends on the condition of the pump. a dodgy pump will struggle to cope with 170kw let alone anything over 200, yet one in good condition would go above 200kw easily (i know people with 220kw on the stock pump and injectors). however from an engine safety point of view it would be best to change it. changing the pump isn't very hard at all and shouldn't take much more than an hour. just remember to do it in a well ventilated area. clutch, again that is anyones guess. mostly comes down to things like how it is driven and tyres. if you have a good set of tyres and give it a hard time then it will slip. if you have crap tyres that spin easy then the clutch will last a bit longer as the clutch can out grip the tyres. the ecu will go over 9psi. up to around 11 or 12psi it will cope with easily. above that it starts to reach it's safety parameters and starts to go crying to mummy. the safc will allow you to go a bit above this, but certainly not all the way up to 250kw. about 210kw, maybe 220kw, is the absolute max you will get even with the safc, if your tuner really knows what he is doing and everything else is in excellent condition. other things you will have to take into consideration is that you may have spark issues once you get to that sort of power. it comes down to what sort of condition your coil packs and spark plugs are in. if you have good coils but bad plugs you will start to get a missfire, which is easy (and cheap) to fix. simply put in a new set of plugs. if it is the coils it is still simple to fix, but much more expensive.

ok well maybe you should take your own advice here. telling someone to "get the fuck over yourself" isn't exactly being nice either. also going off some of your posts on this forum you are far from being a saint. sure it's all good to go on about how this is a community but since it involves humans interacting with each other you will always get arguments. i know i'm certainly no saint. i've been in plenty of arguments on here. but i will never act the saint. i get up on my 'high horse' about things, but i will always remember that there is shit on my boots. LOL

well as long as the cat is 3" then it shouldn't really be an issue. i was running 14psi on a cheap nasty 3" cat and it only dropped about 1psi at high rpm (like about 6000rpm and above). however when i had a different boost controller on it was dropping about 3psi. the controller i was using that held was one of the cheap turbotech $30 ones. the one that dropped boost was a turbosmart dual stage. also what sort of intercooler do you have? and what sort of air filter setup? and as someone said above, 186kw for 13psi seems rather low. so there could be a fuel or timing issue as well

he wasn't the only one to not play nice. awy550 insulted him by saying that he shouldn't be working on engines because he didn't know about the coils having ignitors in them (which, judging by the amount of times i have read that recently, about 1/3 of people on sau seem to think the same thing, which is typical of a forum. people read something on the internet and think it must be true and then all their mates who also then think it is true). and since ayw550 originally asked if his car had both spark plugs and coils (which is a much more silly question that simply being misinformed about the location of the ignitor when there are many other people on this forum who think the same thing and are the reason more and more people also get it wrong), then to come out and insult bozodos for not knowing anything seems very much a case of the pot calling the kettle african american. so i actually think that ayw550 is the person in the wrong here, however bozodos could've reacted better (even though i would've reacted the same way, probably worse).

he said he is going to get a hypergear highflow, so the turbo won't be the issue. the clutch ecu and fuel system on the other hand......

yeah, newkleer does the consult displays. his has just chaged a few things on them to let you be able to set audible warning tones

in the case of skylines it is the fact that you can get coils of another car for little money and hook them up to work, which also gives a few advantages, such as they can be located in a part of the engine bay that isn't as hot, and then when they do happen to stuff up again they are very cheap to replace, even with brand new ones.

bahahahahaha

oh god, not that again. the r33 series 2 ecu does NOT have the ignitor built into it. it is built into the coils. that is why you can't run s1 coils in a s2 and vice versa, yet you can run a s1 ecu in a s2 and vice versa. i use ecutalk. i also have datascan and scantech but find ecutalk the easiest as far as just displaying info goes. the others have the the diagnostic tests though. it's always fun driving along then switching off a cylinder, LOL

since you are trying to help him learn, here's a few points for you to learn as well. first leads are not the same as coilpacks. completely different (in your post it sounds like you are saying that coils and leads do the same thing). it is like saying a tyre and a rim with a tyre on it are the same thing. coils are what makes the charge to make the spark plug spark. leads just carry that current from the coil to the spark plugs. technically speaking your skyline has leads. the leads on the skyline aren't really leads though as they are only tiny (like 1cm long), but they are still there. they are at the base of the coil pack (the bit that the spark plug goes into). leads don't actually supply power, they just carry the current. your old corolla will have a coil, but only one instead of multiple ones. if you follow your ignition leads back to the distributor you will find that it actually has 5 leads coming out of it. usually 4 around the outside and 1 in the middle. if you follow the middle lead you will find the coil.

don't listen to them, get plugs first. they are ignoring the fact that you think your plugs are 120,000kms old, which even if you let iridium plugs run for their quoted life span of 100,000kms they are still 20,000kms overdue. and given that most iridium plugs don't last the full life of 100,000kms before playing up, it's pretty safe to say that it is your problem. i had iridiums worn out after 20,000kms in my gts-t. now as cara said above, how can the plugs spark if the coil is playing up? well how can the spark plugs spark if they are playing up? if they are covered in carbon you will find that they will missfire. and to take a page out of your book cara, here is something copied from the NGK website now the carbon deposits could be caused by many things. in this case though i would most likely say that they are caused simply because the plug is worn and isn't able to ignite all the fuel. as the plugs wear the gap gets slightly bigger until a point where, no matter good your coils are, the spark isn't able to arc accross the now larger gap and finds an easier route to take. and since plugs are much cheaper than coils, it is very much worthwhile doing them first. and since you think they are 120,000kms old then even with new coils they wouldn't last much longer anyway. i should add that i am not saying that there isn't a chance it is the coils, just saying that i sure as hell wouldn't be buying new coils because a set of really old plugs are causing a missfire without trying the option that is more than likely the issue and costs quite a few hundred dollars less and will more than likely need to be done even with new coils anyway.

i gathered that you had a new engine, but still. 5L of oil in 500kms would've been as smokey as buggery. so yes, your cat will probably be extremely blocked. if you want to rule it out the cheap way, pull it out, grab a can of degreaser and go to town on it. also spray a heap back up the front pipe (or drop the front pipe off and give it a good spray out to stop any oil in there just blocking the cat back up again.

pfft, they both suck. can't beat a v12 for both power and noise.

if your plugs are 120,000kms old then that is definately the problem. even irridiums won't last that long and still perform well. just got and grab a set of copper plugs for about $4 each and throw them in. you will know straight away if it has solved the problem or not, and if it doesn't then you haven't wasted much money.

you use 5L of oil in 500km? holy shit!!! didn't the massive clouds of white smoke give you an idea something was wrong? actually if it is burning that much oil it would run like puss. the spark plugs would be constantly fouled. especially since the engine holds less than 5L of oil, so you would be filling up with oil more often than fuel. so unless you top it up every day i'm suprised you didn't seize the engine when it got too low in oil.

did it only go up to 65 degrees from the moment you put it on? or has it only just started staying that low? if it has only justed then it will probably be your thermostat. if it started that the moment you put the new cap on the put the old one back on.

well considering they do tunes for the LS1 and LS2, their tuning capabilities on your skyline will be pretty much zero. that isn't saying they are bad at what they do, just that they probably won't have the facility to alter your ecu (as it needs to be chipped first). the new commodores and falcons can have the factory ecu tuned much more easily than skylines

this is most easily done with no tyre on the rim and lying it on flat ground, but can be done with the tyre on, just have to change it slightly, but the general idea is: you lie the rim on it's side with the face of the wheel up and measure from teh ground to the outside of the top lip of the rim, then divide that by 2. that gives you what zero offset will be. then measure from the ground to the back of the hub (the bit that contacts the hub of the brake rotor). now subtract the zero offset distance from the distance to the hub from the ground. so for example if you measure the rims to be 178mm (7") that gives you a zero offset of 89mm. and if the distance from the ground to the back of the hub is 120mm, then you have a +31mm offset (120-89=31). if the distance from the ground to the hub is less than half you have a negative offset, but you still still subtract the zero offset distance from the hub measurement so that you know whether it is positive or negative. personally i'm not a big fan of anything over 18" (even i see them as being bigger than needed). with a nice set of 17's they look good and don't spoil ride quality, and also have enough side wall so if you hit a pot hole you aren't going to stuff the rims up as easily. plus wheels get heavier as they get bigger. as for tyres, just go something like a 235 wide. if you want to you could put a wider tyre on the rear, but i'm not really a fan. it isn't really worth it. sure it looks a bit cooler, but means that you can't simply rotate your tyres, or have to run different size wheels on the front of the car if you get a flat (since the spare is only a space saver). also it slows you down. sure having big tyres on the back will give you better traction off the line, but once you are up and moving all you are doing is adding extra weight and extra rolling resistance. and generally wider tyres are more expensive, so what you spend on a fat tyre you could buy a better quality skinnier tyre and have it give you just as much grip, but less rolling resistance, and have better grip in the wet.