mad082

wow, cara is really good at copying and pasting stuff isnt she...... and i don't really see how what she posted is even relevant. it doesn't even seem to mention wasted spark systems. so not to be rude cara, but please read what you are copy/pasting before doing so. this is a "wasted spark for dummies" the first thing you need to know is what '4 stroke' means when talking about engines, and what each stroke is called. this means that the piston has moved 4 different times between each spark. first there is the intake stroke. this is when the piston is moving down and the intake valves open to allow air and fuel into the cylinder chamber. then you have the compression stroke. the valves shut and the piston moves up to compress the air/fuel mixture read for the bang. the spark happens just before the piston gets to the top. then as the fuel is ignited and burns and expands you have the power stroke as the piston is forced down. this is followed by the final stroke called the exhaust stroke. this is when the piston is moving up pushing the burnt fuel out the exhaust valves into the exhaust system. and because of this 720 degree combusion process nearly every engine with an even number of cylinders will have a piston at the exact same point in the chamber moving in the same direction, but 360 degrees apart. now that you know that, onto wasted spark. wasted spark is when you run 3 coils instead of 6. each coil fires 2 cylinders at the same time. the cylinders at paired so that when 1 cylinder is firing on the compression stroke (when it normally fires), the other cylinder is firing on the exhaust stroke. since pretty much all the burnt and unburnt (if there is any) fuel has already been pushed out of the chamber and no fresh air/fuel has entered the chamber yet there is no power gained from this or damage done. it is the equivilant of turning on a light switch that turns on 2 lights but with no light bulb in one of the sockets.

*makes buzzer noise* wrong. s2 r33 and r34 have the ignitor built into the coils not the ecu. that is why the coils are different. if the ignitor was in the ecu then you could run the same coils in s1 33 and s2 33. and to slightly correct the rest of what you said, older cars (and any new car with a distributor, such as the fwd sr20's and a massive list of others) had 1 coil which then sent the charge through a single lead to the distributor when then did as the name suggests and distribute the charge to each spark plug. the distributor is driven by the cam so that it rotates once for every revolution of the engine and as it does the rotor button passes contacts for each cylinder (arranged in the correct firing order) sends the charge to each spark plug making it fire. this is a very simple system and needs no ecu to actually make it operate as it is purely a mechanical system. however to be able to make the timing variable (not the cam timing but just the ignition timing) you need the ecu to play a bit of a role as far as when it tells the coil to send the charge. although a lot of older cars had the timing slightly altered via the engine vaccum. on new cars with individual coils, the engine has a sensor attatched to the cam instead of the distributor, in order to tell the ecu when to fire. the ecu then sends a signal to the the ignitor which then sends it to the coils which fire straight away. the easiest way to think of it for modern cars is this: the spark plug is like a bullet and the ecu is the gun and the coil is like the gunpowder. if you have a bullet with no gun powder, when you pull the trigger the bullet will only go a few metres out of the end of the barrel (you could probably throw it further by hand). the gun powder (coil) is what gives it the power to do what it is supposed to do.

yeah i would say the cat let go. i had a similar thing happen in my 180sx, except i was just taking off from an intersection and it happened at low rpm, and it was only a small amount of sparks. if you had happened to hit a bump while giving it the beans then the sparks could've come from the exhaust hitting the ground. mine used to throw sparks if i floored it up a certain street as there was a big dip in the road. you didn't hear it hit the ground at all, but my mates told me it did, and there was scuff marks on the exhaust to match.

something like that

yeah, cranks cost them $70 and cassette $28 and $18 for the chain (and then fitting on top of that). second bike in a week that i have had to do that to

you can keep the suspension, how much for the butt?

oh and i meant to add that by the time the chain got to being that stretched it also required new cassette and cranks because the chainrings were too worn to just put a new chain on and have it work. yet if they had put a new chain on ages ago they wouldn't have needed new cassette and cranks yet.

so you have often heard people talk about chain stretch and thought nothing of it. generally once a chain hits 1% stretch it is time for a new one. here is one that was too stretched to measure (i put the indicator on it and put it to 1% and it had slop of about 1.5mm, LOL). the chain on the left is a new chain. the longer chain on the right is the old chain. it has the same number of links as the new chain. i measures about 4cm longer. that is why if you ever need a new chain you don't measure the old one to see now long the new one needs to be, you go off the number of links.

yes they come in both 0.8mm gap as well as 1.1, but if you get the 1.1 (which is the factory specified gap for rb motors) they recommend not changing the gap down to 0.8 with the iridiums as it can damage them.

i would say it is the cold air causing it now and not before. when i had my 33 i was having the same issue on cold mornings when i had the boost at similar levels.

probably not the route i would take. a lot of newer designed engines don't work well with carby's. but the ITB like on that rb in the 240 is nice though

you removed the CAS then installed in in a "position you think is correct"? i'd say that is where your problem lies. you probably have set the timing a bit more retarded than what it was. get yourself a timing light and check it. if your coilpacks or plugs were shot it would missfire under load

i had iridiums in my 33 when i got it, they were in there for 20,000kms and were stuffed. put in coppers and they were still fine after 10,000kms. so the reason why iridiums aren't any good is because they are a waste of money.

an aftermarket boost gauge of any kind if a good investment.

they shouldn't alter power output.

it really comes down to how you are driving. if you don't go to any track days or to the strip at all and only occasionally give it a squirt on the street then the stock cooler will be fine. if you plan on doing a lot of hard accelerating over a longer period of time (such as on a race track) then a fmic is a good idea. even though the stock r34 cooler is bigger than that of the earlier models it will still suffer from heat soak from prolonged acceleration.

i had a mate who had issues with his microtech, except it melted the ignition driver on the board and then when it got repaired they put a different board in and didn't tell him.

i think of it as boost cut (although i refer to it as rich and retard, and i know how it works) because of the way it activated in my 33. it wasn't just a bit of popping and a bit less power. when i upped the boost then took it for a spin, when it started to spool up and boost went too high it just cut out dead. no popping or missfire. 100% cut in power, then came back to life. on various occasions when i was upping the boost i encountered this. never did i encounter a missfire or anything like that. i would slowly up the boost until i encountered this cut, then backed it off a bit. and it wasn't anything such as the afm playing up because when i put in the remapped ecu and boosted it up to 15psi it didn't miss a beat and ran good afr's.

ahahahahaha, he posts up saying that he fixed the problem and someone then posts up telling him to check something else. i love the tech section

um.... why would you want to move the bov? the stock bov is in the ideal location. nice and close to the throttle body.

it depends on the individual car. just like how with turbo models you can find a variance of 10 to 15k for the same model

if you think welding with a mig is hard, try arc welding, LOL. i can weld with a mig ok, but arc/stick welding i suck at big time. but i think it may have had a little bit to do with the actual welder and power supply, but mostly that i suck at it, LOL.

when i took my magna to the strip there was a jeep cheroke there i think it was. it was running in the 17's, LOL. also quite a few commodores (ranging from a few hsv's in the 12's to dirty old vn's in the mid 15's) and falcons. i think there was maybe 2 or 3 33's there (members from on here), all turbo.

there is a very small chance of that. would really depend on the brand of helmet. does the helmet have a slot to put a lense in behind the flip part? most i have seen do. and auto helmets are somewhat different. the permanent tint helmets are like putting on a pair of really dark lenses. they don't vary the amount of light that comes through to cater for different light conditions. it is always dark looking through them. maybe post up some pics of the helmet and the lenses. or try fitting them and see how they sit. if the purple lense goes on and it doesn't look like the clear lense will fit on in front of it then that will be a pretty simple solution.

a dragon charger?