mad082

and then just hope they send you the right thing, LOL. while i haven't had any troubles a guy i know has been given the wrong thing a few times. luckily he just goes there in person so it's easier for him to sort it out.

what about if i tip some nuclear waste on my dragon??????

also upping the boost with only having a cat back exhaust and not a full turbo back exhaust also shortens the life of them as more heat is held around the turbo, shortening the life of them.

most people go spot 2, because it is closest to the firewall and a bit less obvious. neither of these will give you the most accurate reading though. they will give you an accurate reading of how much boost the engine is getting, but not what the turbo is actually doing. to get an accurate reading of how much boost the turbo is producing you need it reading from before the intercooler, however this will not give you a vaccum reading like having it from the plenum will.

i hite a pretty big hare (probably about the size or a large male cat) at about 90kmh in my 33. did a lot less damage to the front bar than yours, but then when i had bought my front bar (bought it from a wreckers for $100 cause it was badly damaged) i added a heap more fibreglass to it to make it a heap stronger. i thought the bar was going to be stuffed because i was on the brakes as i had just pulled onto an off ramp and was slowing down from 110kmh. but got to where i was going and there was a few small cracks in the paint in the corners off the mouth of it.

oh i just thought of another car. my mate has just gotten one and put a supercharger on it. a lexus IS/altezza.

ok, in that case, it really depends on what it is. a lot of stuff is interchangable, sometimes even if the stock items aren't exactly the same. things like pods will usually be 100% universal, not just between skylines, but all cars. it is usually just the adapter that makes it specific to a skyline, etc. radiator hoses and fan belts, etc i would assume would be interchangable. sometimes things can be determined by whether the car has ABS or not. this will often apply to brake parts (i know, captain obvious) but can also apply to other things such as fuel filters (probably not on the skyline though, but i have seen other cars where they are different).

ok, now my post looks really stupid, LOL

if you could get a stock turbo catback exhaust then use that. unless you have serious mods then 3" is actually going to reduce your power and be as loud as shit. i have seen results from people putting 3" systems on 3.5L magnas and there was no max power gain from doing it, but there was a drop in low end power, and that is on a car with 1000cc more. even on a 4.0L falcon 2.5" is a big enough exhaust. and before you start bagging out falcons, etc as being shit, it still doesn't alter the fact that a 4.0L engine is going to be pumping out more exhaust gases than a 2.5L

please ban and delete this spanning cum stain

i am really getting sick of hearing this. the stock turbo WILL make more power above 12psi. i have personally seen it done on back to back dyno runs all the way up to 16psi. there is about a 15kw difference between 13 and 16psi. also i was running 14psi on my 33 and it felt much more powerful than on 11psi. and i know other people running 13 and 14psi who have also seen power gains from the higher boost. so the turbo will make more power, it just isn't that safe to do it. so believe me or not, but i know what i saw. and most of the people who say it won't make power over 12psi have never tried it.

obviously the gtr cooler is second hand? is there any damage to the intercooler? if there is a crack in it or a hole then the car will be running rich and fouling up the plugs causing it to drop a cylinder or 2

they are no older than a r32. not really that much more unreliable than a skyline, and parts aren't that much more expensive. there is just less aftermarket following. that said, because they are an australian delivered car, insurance will be cheaper, and parts slightly easier to get through nissan (less chance of getting some idiot saying that they can't get the part because the car is an import)

give the same mods to a 33 or 34 and then see how it goes. the r32 with a rb25 isn't really any lighter than a 33, yet the engine puts out less power than that of a rb25 from a r33 (i think the r32 rb25 is only 132kw). unless of course you are talking about just putting a r33 rb25 into a r32, but in which case the car is still going to be very similar in weight still. sort of. the awd will get you off the line better, if you get a good launch. however it is easier to bog it down off the line in an awd and get a bad launch. out of corners a NA isn't exactly a super power plant. it's not going to be frying the tyres (might get a touch of wheelspin, but won't just burn them up) so the awd isn't going to be doing that much. plus you have the added weight of the atessa system (around 100kg), so that means you have to brake earlier, can't take the corner as fast (not as much latteral grip due to the extra weight) and have more chance of understeer, as well as slower acceleration once you actually have traction. there is the rear wing. s1.5 (1995 models which are a mix and match of s1 and s2) and s2 have the tall wing, where as s1 have the small wing. front bar for s2 is different (has the round fog light and indicator) interior is different colour (trim on seats and doors) dash surround is slightly different nicer looking steering wheel a few parts of the engine are different, such as TPS, afm, coils (have the ignitor built in where as s1 have a seperate ignitor) and on the turbo models the s2 has a different turbo (same size and still ceramic exhaust wheel but a plastic compressor wheel on s2 and steel on s1. it makes it spool up a fraction quicker) and a few other little things. there is no major differences in the engine or anything like that.

but they are garanteed to give you decent gains. pulleys, not so much.

yeah your highway economy is a little bit high, so be worth doing. just remember that the ecu doesn't read off the o2 sensor when you put your foot down. so if you drive through the city giving it a bit of beans then your economy won't change. however if you spend time sitting on the one speed through the city, and the same on the highway, you will get better economy from a new o2 sensor. you can check your o2 sensor with a multimeter, or a consult cable. or you could just unplug it and drive around for a tank and see what sort of economy you get. if it doesn't change then you know your o2 sensor is stuffed. if it changes dramatically (gets worse) then you know the sensor is fine and it is going to be other things. if your economy gets better without the sensor then the sensor may be stuffed or you may have a short somewhere. normally when they die they make the car use more fuel.

ok, well start with the obvious things, how old are your spark plugs? what gap are they? what type are they (copper, irridium, etc)?

ummm, actually no. we aren't talking about what the threshold is. we are talking about response. as in how long after you plant your foot the turbo spools up and starts actually pressurising the intake. the length of the piping doesn't really affect the threshold at all as that is simply determined by the amount of exhaust gas and size of the rear housing and turbine wheel, not the length of the piping (although this will play a very small part, because as you said, the longer the exhaust the cooler the gases will be and the less volume they have). and whilst that is also possible, i think that porsche would've initally run it at stock setup to see what it could actually do. so they would've given the car to their driver to do a few laps before they even thought about detuning it. no point detuning it if their driver can't match the times in stock form. so to be honest, unless a third party buys a new car from the showroom floor of each brand and takes them there, calls the press in and has multiple drivers start doing laps, you won't know for sure which is quicker. because drivers are another variable. each car is going to suit different drivers slightly better.

naws?

that sounds really odd. is that video at the back of the car or the front? if it is at the back then it would most likely be fuel pump, but if it is at the front then i doubt it is fuel pump.

+1

yeah as said, your car has 6 plugs. the part number you want is BCPR6ES. they should set you back about $4 or $5 a plug. they will be gapped to 0.8mm which is fine. you won't find any gapped at 0.88mm. o2 sensor is on the dump pipe. they can be a bit hard to get out without the proper socket, although sometimes you can get it with a spanner or shifter. just depends on the angle on which the sides are on. both the tool and the sensor should be available from any auto parts store with half a brain. as for the fuel economy, it could be due to the o2 sensor, but that isn't the only possible cause. firstly, what sort of economy are you getting? in L/100kms or how many kms you went on how many litres (then i can just do the conversion) preferably, not just "i get XXXkms to a tank". how you drive plays the biggest part in fuel economy. if you boost it everywhere then expect crap economy. just because it is only 2.5L doesn't mean much when there is a squid hanging off the side of the motor. my r33 got the worst economy of any car i have owned (and i've had 4 other aussie built 6 cylinders). that was because i have a lead foot. another misconception is that just driving at low rpm will save fuel. this is only half right. if you floor it but only rev to 3000rpm you will use more fuel than someone who only uses very light throttle but revs out to 5000rpm. once you get past a certain load point (basically how much accelerator you are using) the ecu stops using the o2 sensor to determine the ait/fuel ratio and goes to the proper mapping. generally this will take the air/fuel ratio from being around 14 or 15 to 1 down to around 11 to 1 on a stock ecu. other things that can cause poor economy are a dodgy thermostat. if it doesn't close properly the car will take longer to come up to temp, or not come up to temp at all so the car will run on cold start enrichment much longer than it should. if you let the car idle to warm up before you drive anywhere then that will waste a fair bit of fuel as well. or if you do a lot of stop/start driving in traffic you will use much more fuel than someone who drove the same distance at the speed limit and didn't have to stop at all.

the AAC shouldn't affect boost at all. it only lets in a tiny amount of air. it could be causing the hunting idle after boost but there could be other causes too. when i first got my 33 it was pretty much stock, but if you gave it the beans then lifted off it would nearly stall. it was caused by worn spark plugs. if you have an atmo bov this can be made worse. i only had the stock bov though, so it isn't just atmo bovs that can make this happen if the plugs are crappy. what happens is that when you lift off and the bov opens, with an atmo bov all the air in the cooler piping is released out into the engine bay and this sucks a bit more air through the afm so the ecu puts more fuel in, making it too rich and the spark plugs aren't able to ignite all the fuel. with the stock bov a similar thing happens although it doesn't suck as much air through the afm, but you get some of the air that is being recirculated passing back out the afm, and since it doesn't know which way the air is travelling it dumps in extra fuel also. the fact that your idle drops after lifting off then comes good again makes me think that your problem is like mine and there is a very good chance that new plugs should fix it. and if you haven't replaced your plugs in a while it wouldn't hurt doing it anyway since it will only cost you about $30 for a set of plugs. the part number you want is BCPR6ES. don't bother with iridiums. i was getting similar life from copper plugs as from iridiums with a $100 price difference. as for the lag, don't really know about that one. that could be caused by a lot of things. could be to do with the wastegate or the boost controller. as for the AAC valve location, i looked it up again (it's been about 3 years since i had my 33 so i'm a bit rusty on locations of things). the AAC is attached to the side of the IAC. if you look at the back of the plenum you will see a round cylinder about 1 inch wide pointing towards the passenger side with a plug on it, and just behind it what looks like a really long nut with a plug in the end of it. the round cylinder is the AAC solenoid. the other is the IAC. you remove the whole unit with 3 bolts (i think they are 12mm, maybe 13mm) and 1 or 2 of them are located under the unit. then disconnect the plugs and hoses. the AAC i think is held on by 2 small phillips head screws. give the whole unit a good spray with carby/throttle body cleaner. then stick it back together and install the unit back in the car. after doing this it is best to readjust the idle which you need to lock the car into base idle mode. this can be done without a consult but i can't remember how. has something to do with bridging 2 wires in the consult plug.

the fact that it builds boost when free reving makes me think it is a timing issue. a mate of mine had a similar issue in his CA18 180sx. at times it would be fine, at other times you would be driving along and it felt like you had your foot hard on the brake. the problem started off doing it only when it was cold and as it warmed up it would come good. then it started doing it randomly until it would do it pretty much all the time. it would make 1 bar of boost by 1500rpm from the bush bearing turbo off a sr20. there was definately something wrong. it turned out to be pretty serious. a broken cam. i actually have a video of it shooting flames a foot out of the back of the exhaust just sitting there and reving the engine up to about 4000rpm repeatedly (sitting there just stomping the throttle on and off) now your problem might not be a cam being broken, but it could be something like a dodgy CAS.

i would be looking at cams over the pulley set. even without an ecu you are going to see decent gains throughout the rev range. look up prices for a set of poncams