mad082

i think he wants to make sure that his engine hasn't been swapped, not if the car itself is orignally a turbo. the easiest way to tell if it is a turbo motor that has had the turbo removed would be to put it on a dyno. if it makes over 100kw then it is a NA motor, LOL. you could probably also look for blocked up oil and water lines. although i guess that you would be able to tell if it was originally a turbo motor just by driving it. if you test drove other NAs when you were buying yours then you would know straight away. a turbo converted to NA would be dramatically slower than a stock NA. if you get easily beaten by v6 commodores would be another indication, LOL

the option is still up to the customer though. they could speak with their dollars and only buy the aussie made stuff and not buy the imported stuff, and then shops would only stock the aussie made stuff. but until such time as that happens, having a house to live in (rather than going bust and having the bank take the house) is somewhat more important.

and yet the r34 gt-t is even heavier, LOL also, while the evo x may be heavier than the evo 9, they are a quicker car around a track. at the bathurst 24 hour the evo x's were doing better than the 9's.

0.7bar is only around 10psi so i wouldn't normally think that it would be hitting paris hilton (rich and retarded, LOL) at that boost level, but every car is different. i would look at getting it put on a dyno just to see what the AFRs are doing. if they aren't fluctuating in the dead spots then it will be an ignition/electrical issue.

fouled injector?

yeah it is something like that. i saw someone talking about testing it with a multimeter the other day in a thread but have no idea where it was.

but he still has to get a different ecu first since the nistune boards don't work in a 33 ecu.

if you have dodgy cooler piping then that will more than likely be the cause of the boost fluctuating as well.

if it is an aftermarket airbox then it will be fine and will be an improvement over stock. if it is a pod, then still use it. i am of the opinion that a pod sucking some hot air but flowing enough air is better than an airbox that is only sucking cold air but is choking the engine up top. also, before you do anything else. go and buy a boost gauge. and i mean right now. depending on how the controller works, being at 20$ will probably mean that the solenoid is working at 20%, not that you are getting 20% more boost. so depending on the power of the solenoid, 20% could be 0.5 psi (meaning you are running about 7.5psi) or it could be 5psi (meaning you are running 12psi). so go and buy a boost controller before you do anything else, and take it easy on the way there. even if you only buy a cheap $50 drift one it will be better than nothing.

you don't have the car locked into base idle mode. this locks the base timing at 15 degrees in the ecu. when i say that it locks it at 15 degees in the ecu, i mean that what the ecu thinks is 15 degrees. so if you then go and give the CAS a good twist, the ecu will still think it is 15 degrees even though the actual timing may be 25 degrees. when not in base idle mode the timing will fluctuate all over the place as the car controls the idle. and the more eratic the idle (even if the idle sounds pretty smooth it can still be eratic because the ecu is working hard to keep it smooth) the more the timing will fluctuate.

stezza = stereo

correct, however it is advisable to have consult connect at the time of checking the base timing as it can look it into base idle mode which locks the timing at 15 degrees (can be done without consult as well but consult is easier). when not in base idle mode you can't accurately set the timing as it can fluctuate by around 3 degrees at idle

i'm glad you onlt paid $100 for it, cause i certainly wouldn't have paid anything more for it. that isn't entry level. an entry level road bike is worth about 5 times what that is. probably the cheapest, nastiest road bike on the market (since it is a supermarket bike), and that's why you would've popped the tubes. the tubes should take higher pressure than most tyres. they tyres are what determines the pressure. tyres with weak sidewalls won't take much over about 90 to 100 psi (when rated to 60psi) before they tear the sidewall apart. a tyre rated to 100psi will take up to about 140psi before it starts to tear. also cheaper tyres punture much more easily due to lower density casing. and they are heavier. just have a look and see where the punctures occur. often on those cheap bikes it will be on the inside because they have used a thin rubber rim stip and the tube buldges into the spoke holes and creates a thin spot which then pops. personally i think that any road bike that doesn't have intergrated shifters (shifters in the brake levers) is a waste of time. that bike would be much heavier than any other road bike, and more than likely be much more uncomfortable to ride as well as a rougher ride. you would've been better off paying another couple of hundred and and gotten something a bit older but much better quality. if you plan on doing long rides expect to be having to replace the wheels in a few months after the hubs shit themselves. also if it is a 6 speed (can't tell from the pic) and the freewheel isn't a shimano one, immediately take it to a bike shop and get them to fit a shimano one. it will save you being 20km from home and have the freewheel pack it in and leave you without any drive (you will pedal but the wheel won't turn). sorry to rain on your parade, LOL rowan, not a big fan of slime tubes. they often don't seal the hole up until they have let most of the air out of the tube, and after a while they just don't seal it up at all.

you can often see issues with them just by looking at them. look for signs of melting i'm not sure of the method using a multimeter. someone on here should know though

as boz said, you can't put a nistune in the r33 board. you can either use a z32 ecu or a r32 ecu. with the r32 you lose the VCT though

if you are running those plugs that you think, then you realy should change them. go BCPR6ES and it should run fine. if you are running heat range 6 plugs then i would be looking at the ecu. resetting the ecu isn't the same as getting it tuned. all resetting it does is reset any self learn settings which are mostly to do with light load/cruise. since the ecu has been chipped it will have different base settings to a stock ecu, and depending on what car/setup it was tuned for it may be totally wrong for your car and making it run way too rich. also you could have a leak somewhere in the intercooler piping (or the bov) which is causing the car to run rich. start with finding out what plugs you have and then go from there.

the car will always run cooler on the highway than round town. it gets much more airflow. could be an issue with the AAC or IAC valves which control the idle.

as above, could be the stereo, or your alternator could be shot.

looks like number 1 is running super lean. the other 2 look good though.

you can also buy stuff called dry lube. comes in a stick.

what are you actually feeling? is it missfiring or just getting sluggish? when i was hitting rich and retard in my 33 it wouldn't missfire or anything like that, it just killed the power for half a second then kicked back in. if it is a missfire: what series motor do you have? if it is a series 1 with the ignitor pack then that could be the issue since you have replaced coils and plugs.

i pulled the iridiums out of my 33 after 20,000kms and they were shot. so glad i hadn't paid for them. biggest waste of money

did his engine go, or are they just replacing it as a recall?

does anyone else get an urge to kill when spammers post on here? i think they should just unplug the internet to africa for a few days to give everyone a bit of peace and quiet

spamming obviously