mad082

yeah sounds like you have a leak somwhere in the heater box and that is causing the smell, the fog and the overheating and loss of coolant. first thing i would be doing is disconnecting the hoses that go into the cabin from the engine bay so that you don't loose any more water and damage the engine. then find the tutorial on how to remove the heater box and have a look for signs of a leak

sounds like there is going to be a second issue with the clutch. it could be that you have bumped the clutch fork and it isn't sitting properly on the bearing, or the pivot bolt. get a torch and shine it through the robber seal where the clutch fork goes into the box and see if everything looks ok.

you mean to say that the oil companies are actually businesses trying to make money???? i don't believe it. LOL i love how so many people complain about the price of fuel yet a large amount of people will buy bottled water. fuel companies are probably making less profit from a tank of fuel than the water companies do from a single bottle. also, while australia may refine a large portion of the petroleum, it still has to import a large amount of crude oil. if we didn't have to import any oil, and were even in a position to export oil, our prices would be lower.

you have me confused there (and i see gary has posted up about the same thing). so it is true that the rotor is spinning 1/3 the speed of the shaft it is on, point b), but then the centre of the rotor is spinning at the same speed as the shaft? umm, how can that be? i know that with my car the wheels don't move at a different speed to hubs, and that is basically how i read what you are saying edit: i should add that i am by no means a rotary expect and have very little knowledge of the actual works and would actually like to know what you mean by this post another edit: i think i understand what you mean now

were the pods a factory oiled pod? if so, that will be the source of the oil. otherwise there is a good chance that some of the oil is also from the recirc pipe.

mate of mine has a vectra that never had the timing belt changed. got to around 200,000kms and then let go and the valves became good friends with the pistons

there is one thing that nearly everyone in this thread is forgetting. that is.... that boobs are awesome!!!

depends on whether they have v-tak yo

it could just be that the bracket has moved and it is touching the side of the tank which is amplifying the sound. or it could be that there is an issue with the pump

what did they look like before they were machined? if they looked like that before hand and the shop didn't also smooth the pads off then that explains why they look like that now. also comes down to what the pads are like (quality and compound) as well, because if they are a lower quality then a track day is going to cause wear like that even if you had new rotors on there

could be that the gauges in the dash read differently (honestly don't know). do you happen to have the stock one from the r32 motor? if you do i'd put that in (if it fits) and just use that.

do you want an actual dyno sheet or just an idea of what it should make? in the dyno thread i have found some figures of what people have made stock, they just haven't posted any graphs

http://www.nistune.com/ and since you are running stock boost, get yourself a cheap manual boost controller (one of these will do fine- it's what i used) and wind the boost up to around 11 or 12psi (obviously need to get a boost gauge first, but even a $50 drift one will do the job). you will notice a big increase in performance as you will probably be gaining at least 30 or 40kw. and you should be able to run that boost on the stock ecu.

but it isn't doing 3 combustions ber rotation of the crank/e-shaft. it does 1 combustion ber rotation of the crank/e-shaft. it takes 3 rotations of the e-shaft before the rotor has combusted all sides of the rotor. although where you said that it produces 6 combustions per cycle is where people are getting the comparrison with a 6 cylinder engine as it also produces 6 combustions per cycle. yeah. the r32 produced 353nm, the r33, 368nm and the r34 392nm also it's all well and good to talk about what certain engines made, but if you look at the current engine used in the rx8 it is a bit lacking. 170kw @ 8200rpm and 211nm @ 5500rpm. when you consider that most of the governing bodies class the 1.3L engine as being 2.6L (that is the class the engine is put in when it won then awards) then if you compare it to a madza pistin engine of slightly smaller displacement it is a bit soft. sure it puts out more power, but has less torque. i am comparing it to the 2.5L engine from the mazda3 sp25 (not the mps because it is turbo and the rx8 isn't). the sp25 puts out less power yes (122kw vs 170kw) but it's also only making that at 6000rpm, and it makes 16nm more torque at 1500rpm less. and the biggest difference is the fuel consuption. taking info from mazda's website so it's all their own data, the rx8 uses 12.9L/100km and the 2.5L mazda3 only uses 8.6L/100km. that is 4.3L/100km less, which is a hell of a lot. even if you use the auto numbers of 158kw and 12.1L/100km it is still pretty poor. i'm sure if they tuned up the 2.5L to make 170kw it would still use less fuel

it would may more come down to the ecu used. the ecu may not be suitable for using with the 4wd setup as it may not send the signals on, but i don't know for sure. had you gone a straight plug and play setup such as a pfc then i don't think you would've had any issues. was the $1000 the cost of just wiring it in, or did it also include the cost of the unit as well? if it was just to get installed then you got ripped.

i'd get a tune with aftermarket management done as that sounds pretty high (i would also check for boost leaks and that the wastegate actuator isn't fouling). although the turbo is slightly smaller on the r33, i was making 14psi by around 2800rpm in my r33 with stock turbo. the problem is that you are wanting 2 different things which don't really go together. power and response usually require 2 different types of turbo. power requires a bigger turbo, but you lose response. response requires a smaller turbo but you lose power. there are turbo's that will give you the power you are after and the response, however they are a bit of a waste, and going to set you back a bit of coin. to run them safely you would an aftermarket ecu or something like a nistune, bigger injectors, fuel pump, possibly a bigger afm. all up the setup including the turbo is going to set you back quite a few thousand. it will require running high boost levels which will shorten engine life and increase your fuel bill. what mods are you currently running? there is no point in telling you to upgrade the turbo if you are currently running plenty of stock parts as you haven't even gotten all of the performance out of the stock car yet. so answer the following questions.... what boost are you running? what exhaust do you have? i think that is about it. you said above you aren't interested in putting a front mount on. unless you get an aftermarket side mount, you are going to have to as the stock cooler is going to be getting close to it's limit for what you are looking for. it will manage it, but i would be looking at upgrading, especially coming into summer. personally, my suggestion for what you want is to get a nistune (provided it is available for your ECU), front mount, full turbo back exhaust if you don't already have it and wind the boost up to 12psi. that should see your goal. or be very close to it and you have saved yourself a few thousand dollars of overkill

pretty sure the stock boost on a r34 is the same as a r33, which is a low/high setup of around 5 and 7psi. the first thing you could do after you get the car is ground the solenoid to give you 7psi all the time (stock setting only gives you 7psi over 4500rpm) as was said, you can't tune the stock ecu without altering it first (putting in a daughterboard) or going a full aftermarket ecu

other factory thermo setups you could look at trying would be those off a later model v6 magna, or those off a smaller car such as a pulsar or lancer.

that is what i thought. i know that guys with turbo SR20s often put in the NA cams as a cheap, basic upgrade

the light won't come on until there is about 10L left in the tank, so if you are only filling up and putting in between 50 and 55L you aren't quite getting there as the r33 tanks holds 65L

bitty...... LOL

i spotted a few lines, etc yesterday at sunny plaza. saw a stagea too. then when i got back to gympie i saw a white r32 gtr (pretty sure it was a gtr) doing a U turn at the lights near the skatepark. was in serious need of a wash and a tune (or a catalytic converter). whole left half of the back bar and boot was covering in a thick layer of carbon. had the whole ying and yang thing going on, LOL

the disconnect cooler hose wouldn't have altered the settings of the ecu much, but it probably fouled the plugs from it running as rich as anything. new set of spark plugs should sort it out. also this should've been posted in the turbo section

because water (and dust) will get in there (even with the cover on) and if you don't take the cover off it will take about an hour of driving with a serious missfire for the water to evaporate. or you can pull the cover off, get it nice and clean, dry it out and not have any issues

N15 SSS o2 sensor is the same as r33 (same part number in the book, but not everyone seems to be using the current book that has the r33 in it)