mad082

well going off that pic there is clearly a large fuse box behind the battery, and i'd start there. it appears to have a lot more fuses there than the r33 does (as they have some in the cabin) so i'd put my money on it being in there

if the intake timing is out by a tooth on the belt, then that could certainly have an effect on things. it could mean that it isn't getting as much air/fuel into the cylinder as it should, so will be making less power.

i saw it on the gran turismo website this morning (although it is a few days old) http://eu.gran-turismo.com/au/news/d10596.html

s1 has a seperate ignitor pack (same as r32). series 2 have it built into the coils (same as r34).

so did i

when i was talking about timing, i wasn't talking about the cam timing but the ignition timing (although the cam timing being out could also affect things if it is out). if the CAS (crank angle sensor) isn't in the right spot then the ecu will be firing the cylinders too late and not making as much power. with the intake side being out a little bit, would it be out by enough to be equivilant to 1 tooth on the belt?

even more latest news (cbf'd getting a link cause it's bad news) but release date is now set for a japan release in march 2010. apparently they have gone from being ready to release at any time to only being 65% complete. in which case it will take them another 3 years

the theory make sense in 1 respect, however it completely ignores something more important. the pressure that the turbo is actually running at, especially on a stock turbo. if you happen to have a restrictive cooler and have the boost gauge and controller after the intercooler then you might think you are only running 10psi but the turbo is actually running at 13 or 14psi and shortening its lifespan. also if the intercooler happens to get a leak of becomes blocked somehow, you are going to be increasing the load as the turbo isn't taking into account this problem and has to overcome this as the pressure is controlled by the pressure after this problem. ideally you should have both the boost gauge and controller before the intercooler as this way you know what the turbo is running at. the engine isn't going to be recieving pressure any higher than this so you don't have to worry about anything there. however having the boost gauge anywhere before the throttle body will not show vaccum, which can often be good for diagnosing problems. if i got another turbo car i would be running 2 boost gauges. 1 before the cooler, and 1 in the plenum. that way you can see what sort of pressure drop the cooler has and also vaccum. it wouldn't be affecting spool up though. might be worth checking your timing. if it is a bit retarded from what it should be then you can get later spool up and it can feel a bit sluggish.

it is only the compressor wheel on the turbo that is nylon (series 2 r33 and r34's have this). the exhaust wheel is ceramic and that is the weak spot for all the skyline turbos. they don't handle heat as well as a steel turbo as the wheel and is why a sr20 can run 15psi on the stock turbo all day everyday and not have any issues.

very good point, and for a large part you are correct. if a belt is slipping then yes, lubing will make it worse. however if a belt is squealing but not slipping (caused by the belt sticking, kind of like how when you walk on some surfaces your shoes will squeak, or just squealing from when the belt rubs against the pulley as the grooves in the belt slide into the grooves of the pulley) then lubing up will help. but yes in this case, lubing won't help. it would be like putting oil on your brakes to stop them squealing

in which case you wouldn't be wanting a big doof doof stereo to start with, LOL

the problem with using the consult method is it isn't that reliable for what he wants to find out. at idle the weak coil may be firing fine and simply switching of cylinders won't find the dodgy coil. swapping the coils out 1 by 1 will give the most accurate results, however if more than 1 coil is failing then it won't help much. also, before you start swapping coils around, how old are you plugs, what gap are they, what heat range and what type are they? if you plugs are getting old and worn then they may be the problem and not the coils. in my case when i had a missfire it was caused by the plugs and not the coils.

what fuel does it run on? gotta be good for at least 350

yeah i have been running that stuff in the pulsar for well over a year now without any problems at all. changed the fuel filter a few months back and there was no sign of any crap in the filter

oddly enough, this is where the fuel companies become the good guys. they know that oil is a finite resource and it's running out, so they are the ones that are pushing the developement or renewable resources and technologies, because they know that if they don't get on the bandwagon, they aren't going to be making money in years to come as oil won't be used as much. also you are right about the perceived value of goods. i'm sure there are plenty of people who would be shocked to know what some of their high priced items actually cost to make. it just so happens that fuel has a low perceived value and as such we make a big fuss if it goes up by a small amount (although percentage wise it is going up by a large amount). i think the biggest issue is that we have become a society that is so dependant on oil based products that we have sort of painted ourselves into a corner. and the government certain didn't help things by being greedy.

that isn't the whole picture. it more comes down to the fact that in most states each brand doesn't own a refinery so a large portion of stations are all buying from the one refinery, reguardless of the brand of the station. so that plays a part in it. and i understand that this does also mean there should be some sort of fair play in all of this as well. but at the end of the day, fuel here is reasonably cheap compared to other countries. england is currently paying around $1.90 a litre for regular unleaded (mostly due to taxes), new zealand is paying from around $1.50+ (but generally around $1.55) for 91 octane also it shits me off when people gripe about the tax on fuel and say that they should cut the tax on fuel. well guess what, if they did, they'd only raise the tax on something else to make up for it. it isn't like they don't give anything back from the money they take. the most obvious being the handouts late last year and earlier this year, but also in funding for roads, hospitals and all that sort of crap. and i just did a very quick calculation, if you use 25L of fuel a week, 52 weeks a year, you'd only be paying a bit over $10 a week in tax on that. if you were then to go and take advantage of the superanuation bonuses the government has been doing where they put money into your super if you do, you'd be getting the amount of tax you paid on the fuel put back into your super.

well for starters, the government takes approx 38 cents from every litre of fuel (not including the GST). also the actual production (wages, etc) costs remain the same no matter the price of oil, so it is only the small amount of the price that the oil contributes to that should've dropped to 30%.

we might export oil, but overall, australia imports a lot of our oil. according to a government site, in 2008 australia produced 25.5 gigalitres of crude oil and condensate, exported 16 gigalitres and imported 26 gigalitres. so our imports were more than our production.

have to agree with nismoid, except i did watch the video and it doesn't really look like the car is even strapped down. and i've seen more powerful cars move less than that on the dyno when strapped down properly

i understand what you are saying there, and mostly agree, however if a rotor fanboy came up to me and started going on about how a rotary is better because it could rev to 9000rpm and how many piston engines can do that? i would instantly revert to SK's point of view. the point is that they are different.

yeah there is 1. behind the gear stick, but they are often missing the cup surround so it just looks like a deep coin tray

spunky munky never said what boost he is running. so unless you know what boost he is running you can't say that it is a happy dyno. i know a few people with r33's getting up around (and just over) 220kw on the stock turbo (different dynos in different states), and it is smaller than the r34 turbo.

actually you still haven't, LOL. he came about 3hp short. and while it is a good effort for a NA, having thrown 4k of mods on has only gotten it to a point where a stock turbo would be. also they don't have the car tied down very well (if at all) which would probably also increase the power reading. the reason i saw that is that the car moves around a little bit at about the 8 second mark in the video, and i have seen much more powerful cars than that move around less.

could be something simple, or could be a bit more serious, but i'll just list the simple stuff. stale fuel moisture in the coils (or a plug for a sensor) fouled plugs (were the new ones put in after the problem or before it was parked for 8 weeks?) alternator playing up (possibly due to dodgy wire or moisture, or it is just cactus) there are other things but you need to do a bit of diagnosing first to rule out a few things and get a bit more info

panelbeating will certainly fix it. it would've been an easy fix except for the fact that it appears to have actually put a kink in the panel at the top of the dent, and where the line goes along at the bottom. as for price, couldn't really say. probably over $1000