mad082

well considering the price that they pump them out for, i'd say that is the first clue. also was he the only driver of the company car? cause company cars are often regaurded as being 1 step up from a rental rally car, LOL. the stock exhaust flows pretty well on the xr6t. often one of the last things needed to be upgraded.

+1 for it being ok. i did it for the above mentioned reason. while it makes it easier for moisture to get in, it also makes it easier for the moisture to get out when the car heats up

actually it is a corona. the supercrown is jsut a variant of it, but it is still a corona. my sister in law owns one. real heap of shit. gutless as all buggery and handles like a penguin in an oil spill, with more body roll than a drunk elephant

about 188nm @ 4800rpm

i'm not sure about the r34 gauge, but i know the r33 gauge doesn't actually read in psi. i have a feeling that the r34 doesn't either, but i could be wrong. either way, an aftermarket gauge is always good to have. the stock gauge is ok to go off as a basic guide. for example if you know where the needle usually goes to and it starts to go a bit higher (or doesn't go as high as normal) then you know something is going on. however they aren't exactly accurate.

i'm guessing quite a lot more times yet, LOL i'd start with the simple things like plugs and work your way from there.

a faulty contact in the AFM?

both will give the same result

i don't think that tony actually took that picture. i'm guessing he found it

1: gt5 2: gt5 3: gt5 4: gt5 5: gt5 6: gt5 7: gt5 8: gt5 9: gt5 10: gt5 i did my top 10 because i think there is still a chance that it won't be out even by the end of next year, since it was originally supposed to be out back when the dinosaurs were still walking the earth

yeah an f6 would be awesome. they are supposed to be extremely quick even in stock form. will accerate from 80-120kmh quicker than a lot of more powerful cars.

so the nipple was on the compressor housing? the rb25 turbos don't have that so yes, you will need to put a nipple into the intercooler piping somewhere.

the r33 has no nipple on the turbo as far as i know (i have never seen one and i have pulled a stock turbo off) but i have seen people put them into the stock turbo (also some other turbos come with them fitted from factory). however i would just have one fitted to the cooler pipe that runs from the turbo to the cooler. when i first put on my front mount i was using the hose from the plenum to the bov and had spiking issues. then i put a nipple in the "hot pipe" as i refer to it and never had any issues with boost spiking again (well at least any that weren't caused by a faulty controller)

exactly. it may be pretty poor in the airflow department. but it is the only way that the cooler could actually work. without the divider very little air would actually make it through the core of the cooler, so it would be 95% useless at cooling,

if it did, then when the solenoid stuffed up it would run unlimited boost. also it would be pointless having it connected with a T piece. you would just have a hose go straight to it. the T piece is there because you have the hose go from the cooler pipe to the actuator so that when the solenoid is closed you get 5psi. then when the solenoid opens it bleeds off some of the air between the cooler pipe and the actuator so that less pressure gets to the actuator. i am 99.99% sure that the second hose goes to the intake pipe, because when i put on my boost controller i just removed the hose with the T piece in it and put a new hose in and i only disconnected the solenoid from the T piece and nowhere else (blocked the hose as well so it could let any dirt into the solenoid).

vl's had a standard diff (no IRS) so you could jack them off the diff if you did it near the suspension mounts. but you can also jack the car (either skyline or vl) from the actual diff housing as they are rather solid, however it isn't the best as the car can still tip to one side so jacking or placing jack stands as close to the outside of the car is the most stable and safest way to do it.

ok, just found some pics showing the tps as well series 1. note how the tps is just square/rectangular and only has 1 plug. i think some have a few wires coming out with a second plug on it. and you can also just make out the ignitor module at the back of the motor. it is on the coilpack cover with the 2 grey plugs on either side series 2. note the lack of a ignitor pack and also how the TPS is more rounded on the left hand side of it and it has 2 plugs on it rather than the wires coming out of the box with a second plug. but since your car doesn't have any ignitor pack then you would want to go with s2 coils

yeah looks to be a series 2 engine. also if you look at the TPS you can tell by that too. if it is just a square black bos then it is a S1, if it is a bit more rounded then it is a S2

ummm, i could be wrong but i'm pretty sure that neither of the hoses on the stock solenoid actually went to the actuator. one went to the T piece and 1 went back to the inlet pipe between the AFM and the turbo.

yeah it can work both ways. if the old pump is only slightly weak then on a stock ecu it can make your afr's good and you can gain power and then when you stick a new pump in you go back to being the typical stock ecu richness. however if your car is leaning right out then sometimes there isn't enough fuel to make a big enough bang to make good power so a new pump can improve power. this was also the case with my old s13. it gained 20hp from a new pump because the old one was stuffed.

you can tee it into the hose to the bov (hook it in using a T piece and a second piece of hose and not just stick the controller in the middle of the hose) but that isn't ideal. the best way is to get a nipple installed into the cooler piping, preferably on the pipe from the turbo to the cooler. did you just install the cooler, or was it on there when you got the car? if it was already on there, find where the wastegate is currently getting it's pressure reading from (follow the hose from the wastegate back to where it joins either the cooler piping or the plenum) and put your controller in there

i would be guessing that there is a divider between the 2 outlets so the air has to flow all the way to 1 end and then back again. so not much different to a stealth type cooler. only down side i can see is that heatsoak will affect temps a bit more than the normal style stealth cooler. the reason being that the hottest part of the cooler is going to be right next to where you want the coolest part to be. so the air will cool down as it gets to the left hand side of the cooler, then warm up a little bit as it heads back to the righ due to heatsoak.

it's a 10 minute job. all you really need is some electrical contact cleaner

are you planning on jacking up the whole car or just one side/end? the proper places are under the door sill just behind the front wheels and just in front of the rear wheels. there is usually 2 small notches in the sill. otherwise you can put them under parts of the suspension points or even the cross member under the engine.

was the residue where the coilpack plugged into the wiring loom? if so, just clean all the white stuff off and it should be fine.