mad082

don't bother wasting money on platinum plugs or iridiums. i ran coppers and they lasted nearly as long as iridiums, but at 1/6th of the price. the missfire you are getting when on high load but not on low load (even though at the same rpm) is because on high load more fuel is being pumped into the cylinder so it is harder to ignite and takes a bigger spark. with either weak coils or plugs the spark can be blown out or just arc out. to answer your question more directly, yes it sounds like it could be your coils. it could also be your plugs, or it could be a mixutre of both. plugs are a much cheaper item to replace so try them first. i would recommend changing your plugs to BCPR6ES. they will be gapped at 0.8mm and should set you back about $6 a plug. while you have the coils out tape up the leg and base of the body with electrical tape. this can help prevent them arcing out. it is only a temporary fix. before you tape them up inspect them in a well lit area for signs of arcing. if you have a second car that you can borrow, pull the coils out first and inspect them and if they look ok then go and buy the plugs (having use of a second car saves you having to put them back in and drive to the shop and then pull them out again when you get home). if you find signs of arcing then i wouldn't bother buying new plugs as you are going to need new coils, but taping them up should reduce the missfire problem until you can get new coils. do you know what gap your current plugs are set at? if they were 1.1mm then i would suggest gapping them down to 0.9 or 0.8mm, or you could buy the plugs i suggest if you don't mind spending the money.

you could try using a pin to align the ball in the nozzle to get the angle of the jet better so it sprays over a larger area

since you can have some words automatically change to other words, could you have some of these spam sites we are constantly getting posted automatically change to say SPAM!!!

centrelink (or any government sector) is the worst to owe money to. they might not get you straight away, but they will get you in the long run. and it won't usually be a "make a small payment over 10 years) type of arrangement. it will usually be a "this is your new room mate. his name is bubba and his interest are walks around the yard and making you his bitch once the lights go out"

you will often need padding around certain parts of the cage too.

scathing is spot on with the tyre being the limiting factor in a panic stop. in my 33 it would lock up rather easily, so going bigger brakes wouldn't result in quicker stopping, just make it easier to lock up the wheels.

the only rattle i have in mine is from the face of the cd player, and from the kick panel on the passenger side because i didn't put it back in properly, LOL

could be a few things. could be the coils, could be the ignitor. they both suffer greatly from heat issues when they are on their last legs. is the problem like it is dropping a cylinder or 2? if so then i would be looking at the above suggestions. if it is a dead cutout of power then it could still be one of the above issues, but it could also be a coolant temp sensor issue, or an actual engine temp issue.

+1 for local auto store (autobarn, etc)

ea falcon series 2 'S' pac manual (was written off by next owner) ford festiva vx commodore n15 SSS (missus car now) 180sx (was written off by 2nd owner after me) TH manga r33 another TH magna (was crashed by next owner and still getting fixed) n14 (1.6L auto) don't have a car at the moment. just use the missus'

the magnas are a local product and build quality isn't that great. not bad, but not great. no worse than any other aussie made car, but not better either. also they aren't the most economical car either. they are quick in manual form though. i have owned 2 TH magnas. both 3.5L manuals. they are the same as a TJ, just different vody shape but built off the same platform (basically just different nose and tail) and they are ok cars. my second one ran a 14.8 at willowbank with just a catback exhaust. on the highway the economy is good. you can get around 8-9L/100kms pretty easily. round town though they are heavy on fuel. even babying it i was getting around 13L/100km. if you drive a bit harder that will jump up to 16L/100kms very quickly. i have one of these and love it. build quality is good, no different to any other nissan (for example a skyline). they run cheap (on the highway i've had a best of 6.5L/100kms) and some spirited driving round town will see me at 12L/100kms as worst figures. generally just over 10l/100kms, but if i lived in a different area and was driving further to work (and doing less short trips on cold start enrichment) i would easily get under 10L/100kms. in fact towing a 3.6m tinny on the highway i still get under 10l/100kms. i would highly recommend the n15 SSS. they are comfy to drive, go well, and even better with some mods (full exhaust, not just cat back. extractors make a big difference to the top end) and are economical, and much nicer to drive than a corolla or lancer, etc. the old girl has a base model 2000 model corolla and it is terrible to drive compare to the pulsar. it goes ok but is too soft in the suspension. lancers are the same. and you can pick some up with low kms on them still (under 100,000kms) which isn't bad for a 10 year old car. i don't know if i'd go with a subaru. i've driven a 2.0L imprezza and a 2.5L liberty and while they go ok, i would still take the pulsar over them.

yeah aussie prices suck compared to overseas prices. the UK price is probably close to wholesale price here. in fact i just checked my emails and i have a pricelist for the conti tyres. rrp is $59, wholesale is $29+gst. so even if i was to do them at cost price, by the time they get sent to me and then i sent them to you, you would be looking at over $80, so for you to get tubes, etc for that price is good. but it shows how much the aussie distributors need to lift their game. also it says on the wiggle site that they are currently out of stock of those tyres.

does your car have a seperate ignitor pack? (square thing at the back of the rocker cover). if it does then i would be looking at that or the plugs, since you haven't said how old the plugs are.

not a bad write-up, but you aren't the first person to do one

lol, it's about as attractive as a hat full of spoons

still say the lambo. again because of the sound. just ignore the fact that the steering wheel is off to the side a little bit. wouldn't bother with the 997 turbo as they are slow. well they are fast, but not that fast because they are heavy. round a track the natro, rwd little brother (gt3) will be quicker. don't mind the r8, but unless it was the v10 version i wouldn't bother. and if it was the v10 version i'd be too worried about it catching fire.

looks like a mondeo

this is so much of a repost i couldn't even be bothered to come up with a witty retort

you really need to adjust the idle with the ecu in base idle mode. the reason being that winding in the idle screw on the plenum without the ecu in idle mode doesn't alter the idle that much as the ecu will try to compensate to keep the idle where it is. it would be well worth getting a hold of a consult cable (either borrow off someone who has one, or buy one from newkleer on the forum). you can put the car into base idle mode without a consult cable, but it is much easier with a consult cable hooked up to a laptop as you can also check for fault codes and make sure things like the AFM and o2 sensor are performing properly. i would wind the screw out a bit so it is about halfway, then put the car into base idle mode and alter the idle from there. it may also be worth cleaning the AAC/IAC before doing this as well. as for the fuel usage, the fuel gauge sender could be dodgy and giving you false readings. as for the gauge dropping 1/4 of a tank, when you were on the side of the road was the car on a bit of an angle and not level? often if you park on a slope either pointing up or down the hill, or sideways so 1 side of the car is higher then the fuel gauge will change and then once you get back on level ground it will slowly come back to normal after 30 seconds or so. if you actually lost 1/4 of a tank in 10 mins i would've looked in the mirror for someone syphoning fuel out of your tank, LOL

if it only does it when you press the brake pedal then it is going to be in the brake booster. if it does it when you lift off and don't touch the brakes then it isn't the brake booster. the brake booster has a vaccum line going to it to give you better braking. if the line is damaged or the diaphram in the booster is damage then when you push the brake pedal you are altering how much air the engine is getting and making it stall

vh45de conversion, plus turbo, plus NOS. now that would be awesome, LOL but in all seriousness, i would just sell it and get a gt-t. for what you could sell your car for you could probably just buy a gt-t since NA's go for more now due to the P plate restrictions. then just put an exhaust on it (if it doesn't have 1 already) and wind the boost up a bit and you will have a fast car that drives well on the street. certainly the cheapest option too.

michelin city are what they are called. you will also need some smaller tubes. i use 26 x 1.25 tubes. the only other thing i would recommend is upgrading the rim tapes. i have had a few tubes let go because of the rim tape allowing the tube to balloon into the nipple holes and pop. i use a cloth rim tape and it solves the problem, but you could run a few layers of electrical tape under then rubber rim tape and that should do the job. the sizing on the rims doesn't mean shit. cherie has the same rims on her bike and she runs 26 x 1. they are the same width as a road bike tyre.

yes they will make a big difference. i run them on my bike. you could even go skinnier if you wanted. i run michelin 26 x 1.4's on my bike. they are a more expensive tyre because they have a layer of plastic between the tread and the canvas to prevent punctures. you are looking at about $40+ for one of them though. but you can run them at 90psi, which also helps you roll faster. the stock tyres on the altitude you can only run up to about 60psi. and a 24" frame? how tall are you???? must be pretty tall to ride a 24". i find even the 22" frames feel big. and that reminds me. i should go build some altitudes because i sold all the ones i had on the floor. pity you weren't in qld though, cause i am selling the altitudes for $400 (09 models though, which are pretty much identical to the 2010 model, just different colour)

someone had to tell him. so what if i added LOL at the end. i have been more useful in this thread than you.........

oh dear son of rajab......