mad082

welcome, you made a good choice on the r33. and i know what you mean about the supra interior. i also think the supra interior looks like crap, not just small. the same goes for the soarer interior.

wrong section

welcome before you go any further, are you willing to be paying the extra money for premium unleaded (98 octane) fuel? because you will have to for any of the option you have listed. if you aren't willing to pay the extra, then definately go the hot hatch. go the gt-t over the gtr. a gtr in your price range is going to be a bit tired, so going to cost more in maintenance, especially if something lets go. also general running costs will be higher. don't bother with the GTO. they aren't bad cars, but a bugger to fix if something goes wrong. as for the supra, there isn't a better engine than the 2jz, but i personally hate the interior, and would never own one for that simple reason. a car can be ugly on the outside and i don't much care, but the interior, that has to be nice, because that is what you see when you drive it. the other option is to go the hot hatch route but get something like a n15 pulsar SSS that has either had a turbo motor bolted in, or had a turbo bolted onto the stock engine. they will go very well and are a nice car to drive (i have a non turbo one). just don't thrash the arse out of it and go chasing lots of power unless it has had the gearbox rebuilt with a straight cut gearset. also, is your budget 20 to 23k including insurance? depending on your age and your location, full comp insurance could be up to 3 or 4 thousand. other cars i would also think about are a 180sx or silvia (just get the one with the sr20det, and not the ca18det) or a r33. either of these are going to be cheaper, leaving you with more money to do mods with if you are looking at doing that. but it really comes down to what sort of driving you are looking at doing. if it is simply going to be commuting to uni and not much else (no going cruising, etc) then just a hatch like the n15 SSS with the stock engine and no turbo will do the job. it will run cheaper (don't have to run it on premium fuel), cost less to insure and still be nice to drive.

give it time, it will do it itself, LOL

i had 2 cars at 1 point. and cherie's brother has about 7, and 5 boats. so if they did have split personalities then each personality could have a car. and besides, if you read properly, one person has a prelude, one has the beelte and the 3rd wants a nicer car. nothing is said about the prelude driver wanting a nicer car. the current car of the person who wants a nicer car isn't mentioned. and the honda owner may just be a honda owner, and not a honda fanboi. in the same way that not every commodore owner is a bogan and not every import owner is a pretty boy, boy racer with neons, fully hektic blow off valves and naws

dump pipe isn't that hard to change. takes under an hour. made easier if you are doing the front pipe at the same time. and welcome to the forums

you can get detonation even with a good AFR if the cylinder temps are too high (caused by either high coolant temps or too much timing). the missus used to have a datsun stanza and when the headgasket was on it's way out and the engine temp was getting a bit high, if you drove it hard and then pulled up and turned the key off it would keep running due to detonation caused by hot spots in the cylinders. with fuel injected cars you don't get that happening because once you turn the key off everything shuts off and it can't keep sucking fuel into the engine like with a carby.

when i got mine i painted it with black paint to hide it a bit. i used gloss black, but matt black would've been better. doesn't hide it competely, but makes it much less noticable

hi and welcome when you say "we consist of 3 people", are you 3 different people, or 1 person with a split personality disorder?

i can see some valid points in registration for bikes for identification reasons. but a user pays system would cripple the bike industry. and there are too many holes in the idea. what happens if you happen to feel like dusting the bike off for the first time in years to ride down to the shops but haven't got any registration? do you run the risk of getting booked or do you get registration even though you never ride the bike just in case you one day in 5 years time may decide to ride your bike. and what about kids? do they need it as well? and who has to do all the paperwork? do bikeshops have to sort it all out when they sell a bike or does the customer do it themselves once they have bought the bike? and if the customer does it, can they ride straight away, or do they have to wait until it turns up? and what sort of identification do you use? number plates? they would have to be plastic or there would be injuries when people crashed. as for a user pays system, that would result in a massive decline in cyclists having the following negative effects: more polution more traffic on the roads more crowded public transport more fat people, which puts more strain on the public health system in both financial terms and waiting list times higher unemployment due to lots of jobs lost from the bike industry. as for the argument that cyclists should pay because of all the cycle paths being put in around the cities, well that is just stupid. how many pedestrians do you see using them? plenty. probably just as many pedestrians as cyclists. if you are going to make cyclists pay on that basis, then pedestrians should be charged a registration to pay for footpaths, and the painting of crossings on the road, etc.

not quite true as other people have said. s1.5 are s2 engine and wing, s1 interior (with 1 or 2 small changes) and body. not sure about 4 doors though there is no m-spec front bumper for the r33. m-spec is a r34 gtr model. however there is a type-m r33 though. this is pretty much every r33 gts-t, except some of the turbo 4 doors. as people have said, the afm, ignitor/coils, turbo compressor wheel (s1 has steel, s2 has nylon), TPS ecu's are interchangable. i have done it

i don't think that the AFR mixture is going to be affected by coolant, etc. however the amount of detonation, resulting in cylinder failure can be affected by coolant temps. higher coolant temp around that cylinder = more detonation caused by hot spots in the cylinder, resulting in damage. and i would still say that the cut and shut plenum will flow higher to number 6 than number 1. but if you want to flow test one and prove me wrong then feel free. but number 1 cylinder is farthest from the inlet as far as airflow is concerned, despite being the closest distance wise.

shouldn't this be in the computer section? oh and you are all nerds

what are you doing when it shows 0 degrees? driving or just idling?

i would be checking out a nistune. as far as i'm aware all sr20de ecu's can be remapped as they aren't any different to the earlier ones. all 180sx engines are the same, as they didn't change them like they did with the silvias. also on the nistune website they have boards for the later turbo models anyway (s14 and s15 det). they also do them for late model pulsars which run the distributor setup on the sr20de. i would contact nistune directly with your ecu number and ask them if you can put a board in. or was it the guys at nistune that said you couldn't do it? if so, i'd look at the possibility of putting in the ecu from a n15 SSS in as they can have a nistune board added.

the thing you are talking about, is it a ring with 4 bolts (1 in each corner) with a rubber piece in the middle? if so, i have owned 2 imports and both of them were rusty. i have also seen this piece on a few mates imports and they have all had rust on them too. i wouldn't be too concerned about it spreading, but painting it with a rust kill type product certainly wouldn't hurt.

the diff oil could still be the issue as the angle of the ground you are on at the time may be affecting what the oil is covering. it isn't hard to change the diff oil. i'm sure even someone with girly hair like you could manage it, LOL

does it only do it when the car has been driven or will it do it from the moment you start the car and take off for the first time? the rubber mounts does sound likely as in summer they would be softer and allow more movement. as to which mounts if could be, now that is the problem. could be anything from exhaust mounts, to suspension, gearbox, engine, etc. i'd start by jacking the car up and going over the easy ones to get to with a spanner/socket set.

this could be a sign of bigger issues. it could be a sign that your headgasket has let go, which could also explain the end tank letting go. i would flush the coolant and put new coolant in and check it again in a few days. if it happens again then i would take it to a mechanic.

yeah bubba is right. you can spin the CAS to any position and it won't alter what the ecu thinks the timing is, however if you chack it with a timing light it will show as being changed. the reason the car feels sluggish is because the tune was done at a different base timing. it really comes down to why it was pinging to start with. it may have been a fuel issue causing the pinging rather than a timing issue. in which case backing off the timing is just a bandaid fix.

the thing is though, people don't take into account the price difference. a gtr when new is over 100k, so you would expect it to be built better than a car that costs about half as much. it's like comparing a hyundai excel to a honda or toyota. people will tell you straight away that the hyundai is cheap shit. key word being cheap. if you want cheap you get cheap. if you want good quality you have to pay for it.

as long as the car is complied then it is no harder to re-register than any other car.

i'm sorry for your loss, LOL welcome to the forums

how does it connect to the "teflon joint" in the picture? if it simply pushes on the you could just get some vacuum hose from autobarn or somewhere like though.

nissan designed the plenum to be foward facing, so they spent the money making sure it was right. the designed the rb20/25 plenum to be side facing, so cutting it open and making it foward facing makes any designing they did pointless. the did all the design to take into account the air coming in from the side and designed the position and length of the runners around this info. going and positioning the inlet in a totally different position and direction renders this designing somewhat useless. you are somewhat correct in your statement that 6psi = 6psi everywhere, however once you take into account other things like turbulence and air speed it isn't so simple. if it was as simple as what you say (6psi = 6psi) then there would be less gains from putting bigger turbos on. also the end tank design of intercoolers wouldn't make any difference to airflow. even how much throttle you use wouldn't make as much of a difference because you can make full boost without using 100% throttle, but using 100% throttle allows the most air through and gives you the most power because the air is travelling faster. what the air is doing inside the plenum dictates how much air actually goes into the cylinder when the valves are open. if 6psi simply meant 6 psi and that was all that mattered, then you could just stick a mailbox on there with 6 pipes coming out of it and it wouldn't make any difference to performance and all the companies would be wasteing their time and more paying people to design technical manifolds that flow well and deliver equal airflow. and why bother with proper intercooler piping? why not just weld up some rectangular downpipe with 90 degree corners (note i said corners note bends). it will still presurise to 6psi, and that's apparently all that matters....... well good for you........ do you want a medal?