mad082

i'm pretty sure that the stock pipe is smooth on the inside, despite have the ridges on the outside.

yeah the rb25 and sr20 cars have that as well, but i'm not sure if the rb20 cars have it or not. but there is probably something you can do with the ecu to lock it.

well technically the person who told him that is correct.... sort of. we don't know exactly what they said so don't be so quick to judge. if he was to attempt to tune it himself then yes he would need a wideband sensor. he would also need the controller/reader unit to go with it. when i talk about wideband units i just call them wideband sensors, as do all of my mates. so the person who told flargh! that he will need one may be like me. if flargh! is going to get it tuned by a tuning shop (which i am assuming is the case) then there is no need for him to purchase a wideband o2 sensor as the workshop will have their own.

you would be looking at probably a couple of hundred dollars for one. if you are worried about it, just put male/female plugs on the wires you cut so you can simply plug them back into the original setup if you want to change back.

possibly, but i doubt it. also a turbo'd engine running at 0 boost will be much slower than a NA engine because the turbo engine has lower compression. basically it would be like driving an excel, and i'm not joking. it would literally be putting out the same power as a stock lancer, but in a car that weighs a few hundred kg more. also you want your wastegate pressure to be as close to the pressure you want to run as this means that the boost controller has to only do a small amount to keep the pressure reliable and stable.

the factory o2 sensor only makes it run rich at low load, like when cruising along at the one speed. if you put your foot down the ecu ignores it. so if you floor it a lot then a new o2 sensor won't help much, but if you do a lot of cruising at a steady speed and are driving it sensibly and the economy still suck, try a new o2 sensor

the rb20de is gutless, there is no way around it. they will be beaten by any car with a NA sr20 because they put out similar power but are much lighter. now to the timing issue, you really need to check the timing with a timing light. without that you may as well have just loosened it off, given it a flick and tightened it up where ever it stopped. the stock timing should be 15 degrees at idle. it is also ideal to put the car into base idle mode before adjusting the timing as this locks the timing to 15 degrees as it can vary by about 2 degrees at idle due to different loads such as the aircon being on, etc. not sure on the procedure for a rb20, but if i remember correctly with a sr20 you start the car, turn it off, unplug the tps and start the car again. also the easiest and most accurate way to hook up the timing light is to get an old ignition lead and remove the coil from number 1 cylinder and plug in the lead to the coil and the spark plug. often they won't read correctly when hooking them up to other places. if the timing is serverely out even with the CAS turned to either sxtreme, or it has to be turned to either extreme to get the correct timing, then i would guess that the timing belt has jumped a tooth.

i ran r34 wheels on the magna. had to bore the centre hole out by about 1mm in total. they sat out a little bit wider than the stock wheels. all falcons are 5 x 114.3, but as said, offset varies. early stuff was extremely small offset. AU onwards is pretty close to skyline. also so is late mitsubishi (magna and 380) and toyota (camry) 5 stud stuff as far as i'm aware

that would be the belt slipping and then heating up and gripping (similar how racing slicks get more grip when they are hot). i would tighten the belts a touch and see if it goes away

well you could go something like a turbosmart dual stage boost controller. this will allow you to set the 2 boost levels and flick between the 2 with the flick of a switch. as for having the boost "off", that can't be done. the minimum boost pressure you can run is set by the wastegate pressure, and in the case of a r33 it is about 5psi. so you could have your minimum boost at 5psi and then your high boost at 12 psi.

12psi is about the upper limit of what is considered safe. as for power, you should be able to get up around 180 to 200kw with stock turbo at that sort boost level without much trouble

but why did ash suddenly change it from rwkw to fwkw? i wouls assume that the OP was chasing 450hp at the treads, which is around 335kw.

umm, why do you want to keep the in dash boost gauge? it isn't accurate and doesn't read in psi

most E10 is cheaper than regular E10. well it is at the servo's i fill up at

contact newkleer on this forum. he sells them. software can be downloaded, but you can also ask him about it

yes of course it can be done. you need a new manifold though. but as people have said, not worth it. if you were planning on going a bigger turbo down the track (and going external gate) and were getting the manifold to start with then it isn't so bad, but to do it for the pure wank factor is just stupid.

you can also tell if it's a s2 motor by the shape of TPS unit and the colour of the sticker on the AFM as well if i remember correctly

there are possible reasons for a 94 model having s2 coils. it may have had an engine transplant, it may be a very late model 94 and just got the s2 engine, etc. you may possibly be able to install s2 coils onto a s1 if you swap the whole ignition loom. not sure if the plugs at the back (where the ignitor usually is) are the same though

that is pretty much spot on. what's worse though is scooter riders. i was down the coast one day and some pretty boy on his scooter was following me, sitting right on my bumper. anywho i was going to pull over onto the side of the road as soon as the no standing zone finished (still had a fair way to go) and i was keeping an eye on this dick behind me. i looked in the mirror and he was gone so i assumed he had pulled into a side street. i was approaching where i was going to park and had no-one behind me so i just gave put on my indicator and started to pull straight over and slow down (was going to park behind the last car in the line). next minute i see this dick come swerving round the back of the car and yell at me as he went past. he had been riding about 2m behind the back of the car but off on the shoulder where he couldn't be seen in any mirror and was blocked from my view if i turned my head because of the pillar. he should've been riding on the road behind me where i could see him.

no you cannot put a nistune into a r33 ecu. you can put it into a r32 and some r34 ecu's but not the 33. the 2 options with a 33 as far as nistune go are the z32 ecu or a r32 ecu. r32 ecu will fire straight up but you lose the VCT. z32 requires a few wires to be swapped (about 6 from memory) as some of the injectors or ignition signals are in different spots on the loom and you have to double up the o2 sensors. but once that is the z32 ecu will run the car if you also have a z32 afm on it as well. if you have the stock ecu it wouldn't be safe to run it (if it runs at all). with either ecu you would drive it to the tuners with the stock ecu in then let them plug the ecu in when they are ready to tune. if going the z32 ecu option you could just have the wires precut and just joined back together in the stock locations with some joiners so all they have to do is unplug them and plug them into the right locations when the new ecu gets put in. the only option that uses the stock r33 ecu is adding in an eprom chip which isn't as quick for tuning as you have to use an emulator and can't just update the tune whenever you like by simply plugging in a laptop.

the ford block isn't so much of an issue. the heads are though. i think the 4.0L engines may be a bit better than the 3.9L. i had a series 2 ea falcon as my first car and i went through a few head gaskets. went pretty well after the second one since the head had been shaved twice, LOL also i have seen a few turbo'd 4.0L falcons and they seem to handle it alright.

here is the thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/HO...ost-t42895.html

yeah that is true. a few years back (before E10) the shell servo in town had a contamination issue (and the first car to suffer the problem was an ambulance, and it happened just as i was driving in to get fuel). they ended up replacing the tanks in the ground

yes that is correct. it is a 2 stage system and is controlled by a solenoid. there is a rather large thread on how to ground the solenoid to give you the higher boost setting all the time.

actually series 1.5 generally have the s2 engines so will have the ignitor built into the coils. at least that is my experience with the s1.5 i had and all the other ones i have seen. but it is extremely easy to tell whether the car has an external ignitor or not. look for a square unit at the back of the engine bay on the rocker cover with a plug on each side. if it has it then it takes s1 coils. if it has a plug but no box it takes s2 coils.