mad082

i don't mind it. but all i think about when i look at it is that it looks like a 911 and a rx7 or rx8 had a baby and this was it. interesting that it will be a subaru/toyota joint venture on it. since it is using a boxer engine i wonder it the subaru version may come with the option of a having an EJ25 in there

but then you have to buy a crash-box i mean x-box 360

put it on a dyno and have a look while a run is being done. much easier than trying to drive with the bonnet up and someone standing on a skateboard leaning into the engine bay, LOL

maybe the rollers have been contaminated with oil or something like that. maybe try giving them a quick wash with metho i'm just pulling ideas out of my arse though.

tony (munkyboy) runs the 7's at 1.1mm (i think) and he hasn't had an issue, but he has only just gotten some yellow jacket coils or whatever they are called

AAC = auxilary air control. it opens and closes when things like the aircon is turned on or the steering is turned. it adjusts the idle to cope with the extra strain put on the motor by those things you issue could be the cold start valve or the IAC (idle air control). i'd start with the idle control valve as it is much easier to get to and because of the fact that if you rev it it clears.

back when i first got my licence i never paid attention to the price of fuel, but it was usually around the mid 70 cents/L mark. oh to go back to the days when the litres numbers turned faster than the $$$

all the ones i have seen have been around 94 or 95 ron (caltex, united and shell). don't think the BP here has e10. it could also be that they simply haven't rated it as being any higher because it is based of 91 octane fuel. i remember that when shell here first got e10 and they had it rated at 91 octane but in the fine print of all the info they had about it said that it was around 94.

yeah they would be if you run them at 145psi

yeah i thought there was only 1 or 2 of the old ones that did it

do you still need to use a gasket with these spacers? or are they a gasket replacement? cause if you still need to use a gasket which you have to buy extra then you would need 2 gaskets plus the kit, so you would be looking at around $250 for the setup which may not give you any power increase. also if it is making the air more dense, and thus giving you more power, wouldn't it also be affecting the AFR, so if you were to install these on a tuned car you would need to get it retuned to make sure it wasn't too lean. my understanding with most of these type of products is that they are trying to create a leaner mixture to get more power, which isn't always a good thing.

i would. bov isn't a performance mod. plugs are maintainence, pod isn't really much of mod either. so he has an exhaust, fmic and slightly bigger turbo. not exactly crazy mods. and it isn't hard to adjust the timing safely. or at least put a timing light on it to see if it is at least set to the stock timing. the issue you are having could be that the car is leaning out or the coilpacks or ignitor aren't performing as well as they should, but i wouldn't put it down to the advanced timing. could also be that you are running the stock ecu and with the bigger turbo at that sort of boost level it isn't liking it too much. generally you can have the timing advanced to a point where it will ping it's arse off and it will still make decent power. does do the engine any good, but it does make you lose power the moment it starts pinging. but the problem only appears as you up the boost which makes me think it's either an issue with the ignition system not coping or a fuel issue. you could stick it on a dyno and get them to do a run and check the AFR's and see how they are to rule out the fuel side of things. to check the ignition side of things if you have a mate with coil packs in good condition then try putting them on and see what it does.

they aren't a bad tyre. and at that price you can't go wrong. unless you do lots of kms on dodgy roads. then make sure to carry lots of patches or get a tyre liner. tyre liners are good things. we run them in cherie's bike. my tyres have them built in.

but it will sound faster......

that sounds about right. the temp drop will be bigger at lower revs because of the fact that at higher rpm the air is travelling quicker so is less affected by the temp of the inlet because it spends less time in there

why does everyone mount them like that? if i was going to do it i would have them mounted further back so they point more upwards like a falcon or even the ceffy. that way they make it a bit easier to lean into the engine bay if you have to work on something at the back on the engine

yeah i wondered that myself a while back until i actually looked up what the 2.5mm difference was. as tony has shown, it is only in the top section of the plug. the threaded section and electrode aren't affected. if the springs in your coilpacks were shot (or missing, LOL) then you may have the slightest issue with the lead section of the coilpack not contacting the spark plug properly, but as i said, i don't think it makes any difference in normal circumstances

if you are worried about fuel sitting in the motor, disconnect the CAS and turn the motor over. this should empty out most of the fuel out of the cylinders (there wouldn't be much to start with.

mine used to do that when i wound the boost up to 13psi with the stock ecu. put a remapped ecu in and it never did it again, LOL

another for net getting a GTR, for the following reasons: 1: (this is dependant on state). you aren't legally allowed to drive it due to the P plater restrictions 2: if you aren't legally allowed to drive it then you may have issues getting insurance (or they will insure but not pay up if you crash). also insurance will be very high for a 17 year old with a GTR that has already been booked for speeding (my guess would be atleast 3k for insurance, but probably more 3: you say you are a good driver but you are only 17, meaning you haven't had your P's for a full year yet and you have already been booked. put that together with a high powered car and you are garanteed to either get booked again or have a high speed accident 4: a r33 gtr at 17k sounds pretty dodgy 5: as other have said, get something basic to start with. i see you have a vs commodore as your car in your profile, so just stick with that for now. abide by the law and don't get a turbo car until you are legally allowed. driving something basic will be enough until you get more experience (1.5 years isn't much) and will last you until you have matured a bit more. 6: if you are planning on getting a turbo car down the track, i wouldn't start with going straight to a GTR anyway. i would start with something cheaper to run and maintain such as a GTS-t. if you get sick of having to open your wallet all the time, then a GTR definately isn't for you.

i would assume that draining the tank (possibly giving it and the lines a quick flush with regular unleaded) and possibly changing the fuel filter would be all it would need to get running again.

pretty easy to do the coils and plugs. just remove the top intercooler pipe (the one with the BOV) , remove the coil pack cover then undo the coil pack holders (instead of undoing each coil pack individually) and pull them all out as 1. start with replacing the plugs first as it's a much cheaper option. should only set you back about $25 for a set of 6 plugs. just go BCPR6ES copper plugs.

possibly coil packs, or plugs, or both.

don't think the new ps3's are backwards compatiable. very early ones may have been though.

LOL