mad082

yeah that one. it's monday morning, leave me alone, LOL

fixed, LOL

you can always turn a normal FMIC intercooler into a stealth kit with the addition of a 90 degree bend

yeah as tony said the 2.5mm difference in height isn't much of an issue. plenty of people have run BKR plugs in the past without issues

advancing the timing may have some benefit. if you advance the timing you will pick up power, however you don't want it to be pinging as that will lead to all sorts of trouble. i would start by checking the timing and making sure it is at least where it should be (isn't retarded below stock) retarding the timing will give you no gain in performance at all. it will decrease performance.

this guy is spot on the money. the wastegate pressure on the r33 gts-t and r34 gt-t are 5psi and the solenoid opens at around 4500rpm to increase the boost to 7psi, so if you disconnect the controller and it goes to 5psi then there is no problem. as for your boost decrease, do you still have the stock solenoid connected or is it disconnected? if it is connected as well as the aftermarket one then there could be an issue there. otherwise it could be one of a few things. could be a leak in the line to the boost gauge or a blockage.

did you put 2 pods on or just 1?

pulsar group of australia will tell you all you need to know about this. pretty sure they have been doing it for a while now (i remember seeing a thread on there about it a while ago)

other than the fact that you sound like a muppet, i think you need to learn how to do skids better. commodores are the in thing where i live and i've seen plenty of them able to fry second gear. also you would know that commodore gearing is much taller than skyline gearing, hence why it is slightly harder to do skids in higher gears. and the nissan winning at bathurst thing is pretty pointless as anyone with half a brain knows that you can't directly compare a full blown group A car to a road car but back on topic, the easiest thing to say to a commodore driver is "have you ever driven one? and when they say no, reply with "well until you have actually driven one, you aren't exactly in a position to say whether they are good or not. racing against one doesn't mean a thing because that person may not have been able to drive for shit"

LOL the old "been to the wreckers and got whatever panel was available look"

the 0 and 10 refers to the weight when cold. 0 is thinner when cold (or is it the other way round???) but either way, the lower the number the better it is for cold weather and coming into summer the cold range of the oil is going to be less important than a few months ago so 10w will be fine

if it is a factory knob then there will be no grub screws and it should just unscrew (mine did). if it is an aftermarket knob then you usually need to unscrew a piece at the base of it to get to the grub screws.

you didn't happen to put the plug back on upside down? and what did you use to hold the pins apart? sounds like you have probably shorted something out like you said and that may have burnt out the ignitor (since you said that's where the smell is coming from). you may not have burnt out all channels on the ignitor and that's why the car will still run (just not on all cylinders)

it is more than likely the coil packs if it sounds like a rev limiter (missfire) if it was a boost leak causing the missfire then it wouldn't go away, it would get worse the higher you reved it

you could just put the dash and wheel in with the air bag module disconnected. be much easier (and probably safer) than trying to hook it up properly.

yeah it can be anything from dust to rust

or you could just spend $70 on a consult cable and plug your laptop in and do other diagnostice tests other than just reading fault codes

i'd say that the battery has dropped a cell (hence why it is reading at 9v) and this may possibly be the cause of the high voltage when driving, or the voltage regulator is shot and that has shagged the battery.

i reakon it'd be awesome to drift. some epic steering angle available

i don't know if you will have to take the belt the whole way off. i would assume that you would only have to slip it off the intake, turn it to the right spot then slide it back on. so you may just need to loosen a tensioner or something like that (not all that up to speed on the actual installation of timing belts) being 2 teeth out, that's a decent amount, so you should notice some definate improvement in how it drives when you get it sorted, LOL.

do a search on the net. there are plenty of lists of suspected cars

it can be 1 of 3 outcomes. it really comes down to how they were being affected by being dirty. 1: no change 2: less power (if being dirty was actually restricting flow then they will now put more fuel in, making it richer and reducing power) 3: increase in power (if they were still flowing enough but the spray pattern was poor and making it harder to ignite) but all in all, you should see very little performace change, especially at only 10% difference in flow

i don't like it, but that's just me another way to do it without painting it (or having to find a black one to try) would just be to wrap it in cling wrap then put some black contact paper or sticker vinyl on it. that's actually what i did with the front grill on my r33. i used both white and black decal vinyl to make it look a little bit more like a series 2 grill as i didn't want to paint it and then not like it.

as long as you have the z32 afm installed, i'd say it should be fine to drive it to the tuners even with the stock z32 map on it. the reason being that if you are cruising along the o2 sensor is going to be controlling the AFRs to a large extent. the injectors on the z32 are the same size, and for a given amount of air going into the engine the ecu should be putting in the same amount of fuel. it would just be that the rb25 isn't going to use as much of the higher load area of the map due to the lower capacity of the engine. also i have heard of people on other forums who have been running an untuned z32 ecu in a skyline for a few months with no issues.

the r33 gtr coils i have seen were like the s1 and r32, but i don't know what year series gtr it was.