mad082

good stuff. my sister in law's boyfriend has one with a generic flash tune with the boost up to 9psi and it hauls pretty good. can't beat a 4L 6 cylinder for low end torque (well you can by going even bigger) but they have so much low end compared to a little 2.5L (reffering to my old r33). certainly my car of choice if i had the money

not exactly. the pressure is higher where the airflow is hitting an object and being forced to change direction. if your statement was true then airplanes wouldn't fly. what happens when you foward face a stock plenum is that the air is coming into the plenum is flowing in and hits the back of the plenum then flows down towards the rear cylinders. the air then flows around the plenum and into the other cylinders from there. not exactly an even flow. what you end up with is number 6 being lean (gets more air) and number 1 being rich (gets the least air). you may still get an afr the same as what it was with the stock manifold, but since that is simply an average of all 6 cylinders you don't know what is actually happening with individual cylinders. this is the reason why front facing plenums will usually have the inlet facing at a bit of an angle. if they have no angle then the airflow is going to directed mainly at the rear cylinders, and if they have too much of an angle the airflow will be directed into the front cylinders.

it takes a hell of a lot to get that last 30hp with the stock turbo.

on a stinking hot day after thrashing it a bit, you will make more power with a fmic than the stock cooler. the stock cooler suffers from heat soak pretty quickly. you won't really gain any power from a fmic, as has been said, although you can gain a very small amount simply because of the fact that while a fmic doesn't suffer heat soak as quickly as a stock cooler, it also means that it holds the cold better as well, so on a cold morning it is going to keep the chill longer. basically it is just a different way to look at it. and this is why most people feel a gain in performance when they put on a fmic. with the stock cooler and slightly higher boost, you give it the beans once and it feels good, although the next time you do it the performance will be slightly less. with a fmic you can give it the beans a few times before you start to lost that performance due to the (stock) cooler working less efficiently. as for making 300hp on the stock turbo, it can be done, just don't expect the turbo to last very long at all. also around 270 to 275hp is going to be about the absolute limit of what you can make before the stock ecu packs up it's bat and ball and goes crying home to mummy, although you might not even get that high. to safely make 300hp you are going to need some sort of aftermarket management, aftermarket turbo and possibly fuel system upgrades

yes but they alter the agreed value every year. you may not realise it, but if you look closely when you get the renewal info you would notice that the value has changed. if you got agreed value on a brand new car, they aren't going to pay that same value 3 years on when the car is worth less than half that. that said, some insurance companies will give you pretty good agreed values. the missus was looking at it when her insurance came up for renewal last time on her 2000 SSS pulsar. there was a $5000 difference in values between 2 companies she looked at. the higher of the 2 was the same as what i paid for the car back in 2003 (which was 17k).

are all plugs getting spark? are the coils plugged in in the correct order? what condition are the plugs in?

have a look in the DIY section for the tutorial on changing fuel pumps. they are generally for the r32 or r33 but they will give you a pretty good idea of what you will be looking at in the r34 as well.

ok well saying that you had an aftermarket ecu to start with may have been a good idea, LOL. when you say that you have adjusted the AAC valve, are you talking about the idle screw? or is there a setting in the PFC that can adjust it? i'm not too familiar with the PFC. redoing the idle procedure may help, otherwise there may be something in the settings in the ecu that needs altering.

you need the gearbox attatched because the starter motor bolts to it to hold it in place. don't think you can do it without the gearbox (at least not safely). and i don't think you can just do it by turning the engine over with a socket on the crank pulley. also it would be advisable to have oil in it when doing it.

don't think they read any different, but i have a feeling that one has 3 wires and 1 has 4, but i could be wrong there. it's been a few years since i read it.

also it depends on how long ago he was told that it was valued at that much. if he has renewed his insurance since then he may find that that value has dropped since then.

white interior = fail in my opinion.

if the bcp plugs are too tall i doubt it would put stress on the coils. if anything it would make it contact better and give better spark. all it is really doing is compressing the spring a bit more

before you go looking at coils, pull your plugs out and see what gap they are and what condition they are in. if they are 1.1mm plugs and have been in there for quite a while they may have worn and the gap may be bigger than 1.1mm so just putting new plugs in will solve the problem and only cost you about $30.

why not? i was hitting 14psi at around 2700rpm in my 33 on the stock turbo

my boost gauge read up to about -25 in whatever scale it was for vaccum and my r33 read about -21 at idle and when decelerating it would go to about -23 and i agree with what the others have said about the fuel pressure.

my guess is that you need to lock it into base idle mode otherwise the ecu will continue to regulate the idle to where it is now no matter whan you do to the idle screw.

it should idle a bit lower that that. i would suggest adjusting the idle screw to lower the idle. this is best done in base idle mode as if you just do it with the engine running the ecu will try and adjust the idle to where it was. i think that for the r34 you have to get the car up to temp then turn it off, disconnect the TPS and then start the car. i'm not 100% sure that is the way though, but i know it is for the pulsar which uses the same consult system. but i just use a consult cable and a consult program to lock it into base idle mode

it could be that the gauge is stuffed, or there is a split in the line that is opening up under boost. or it could be that your turbo is stuffed. if possible, borrow someone else's gauge and see if that works. or inspect the turbo. start by making sure the wastegate actuator isn't stuck open or you can't simply move it by hand (meaning the spring inside is stuffed). if that is fine then pull the intake pipe between the turbo and afm off and check for play in the compressor wheel and if you feel really energetic pull the dump pipe off and make sure the exhaust wheel is still there.

just did a bit more looking and i may be wrong. they might be different. nengun shows a different part number for splitfires for r34 gt-t and s2 r33

as far as i am aware, they are the same. coils from an r34 gtr should also fit

only way to know for sure what is happening temp wise is to either get a proper temp gauge or borrow/buy a consult cable and hook it up to some software to read the exact temp. no point just guessing that it is hot if it turns out that the temp is actually fine. edit: also you can pretty much ignore the stock water temp gauge. it will stay in the normal position up until a bit over 100 degrees when it will suddenly jump to hot.

i ran one, as have hundreds of other people. it's the high boost levels (above about 12psi) that are bad for the stock turbo, not the type of controller. anyone that says a manual controller is bad for a skyline needs to be ignored from now on

you can buy adjustable wastegates, however they are still going to have a base pressure of atleast 5psi. may i ask why you want to be able to run low pressure? is it for fuel economy? and when do you plan on running the high pressure? is it only at the drags and track days? if it is only for drag and track days, then buy yourself a cheap boost controller, set it to the desired boost level and just keep it in the glovebox and just put it on when you go to the track. if it is for fuel economy, then just buy the controller, set it to the pressure you want and just drive sensibly. the boost pressure will only build when you put your foot down. if you drive at low amounts of throttle then you can drive a turbo car without even making any positive pressure. if you only want to run 5psi, then just use your foot to control the pressure. the further you put your foot down the higher the pressure. if you are cruising along at 60kmh in 3rd or 4th gear, you could have a 30psi wastegate on there but that doesn't mean you will be running 30psi at the speed. at a set speed that you would be doing around town you won't even be making any boost pressure.

what are the afr's doing when it's pinging? some possible causes are: you could have 1 cylinder that is leaning out so while the afr's are ok when taking from after the turbo are all fine, you could have 5 cylinders running rich and 1 running lean as anything and that is what is pinging. pull out your plugs and see what they look like and make sure they all look the same. it could also be that your exhaust cam is a tooth out on the timing belt so while you think you are at 15 degrees, it is actually at 30 degrees or something like that. what are your engine temps doing? if the cooling system isn't working that well then your engine temps cause be contributing to the pinging