mad082

going to a bigger frame won't help too much with that. if you go to the next frame size up the handlebar height comes up by 20mm, but it is also about 10mm further away. your best bet would either be a steerer tube extender or a stem with a steeper angle. the stock stem is only 5 degrees. my bike has a 40 degree stem on it. this is the only pic of it i could find on the computer. you can see the angle of the stem and how much higher it makes the bars compared to yours

57cm is a stupidly tall frame for a mtb though. generally made for someone well over 6 foot, generally 6'6 or taller. jase 50cm or 55cm would suit you. i only ride a 50cm and i'm 6'3. sure i have the seat the whole way up, but i prefer shorter top tube lengths. road bikes on the other hand are sized totally different to mtb's. well not totally different, but generally you take a different size road bike to mtb. a large frame road bike will be around 57cm, and extra large will be around 60cm. the top tube lengths on road bikes will often be shorter, because of the difference in handlebars and stems. for example, in the 09 stuff, the bike you have jase in a 20" frame (50cm) has a 589mm top tube length. but in the road bikes, a 58cm frame bike only has a top tube length of 585mm.

nothing wrong with SSS owners, LOL

ummm, you do realise that rotor and disc are the same thing yeah? you can't get new rotors and keep the old discs, LOL.

i did in my 180sx once, but it was my mate on the bike, so i didn't mind watching him disapear into the distance, LOL

don't forget, when you put the turbo on, before you connect up the lower oil line, unplug the coils and turn the car over until oil comes out of the turbo oil line. that was in the instructions that came with my mates 3076 that i had to put on for him. and leaving the engines in the cars they were originalyl in sounds like a much better idea than swapping motors. save yourself a lot of work for zero gain.

i must say i'm guilty of doing this. had a NA 33 next to me at the lights the other day when i was in the missus SSS pulsar. light went green and i took off not fast, but not like a grandma. heard the skyline take off hard and the nose start to move past mine so i floored it and watched the front of the skyline stop moving foward then start to slowly move backwards. then we both lifted off at 60kmh and he seemed to drop right back. the missus was in the car and found it rather amusing. also had a run with a r32 gts-t in the pulsar. the 32 was in front of me though and they took of hard so i just floored it to see how the pulsar went compared to the rb20 turbo. it was only just pulling away. but again, it was only up to 60kmh before lifting off. back when i had my gts-t i had more encounters with commodores wanting to race, but pretty much anytime an import was up against me they would try to race me. so if you put it into terms of % of cars wanting to race, imports were about 98%, commodores about 20%. oh and 131kw in a 1450kg car isn't exactly a lot. you would find that a lot of magna's ect would actually beat you as they would have about the same power but in a slightly lighter car. my first magna had been thrashed and it still had 127kw. but there are plenty out there in better condition with well over 130kw. there are quite a few with just an exhaust putting out around 135kw at the wheels.

get the stock cat off a SSS pulsar. they are 2.5" (well the one on mine is) and they are the same flange as a skyline (well it's the same as a 33, so if 33 gts-t is the same as 34 then you are set)

could be the CAS, ignitor pack (depending on what year model your car is), or possibly the ignition drivers in the ecu.

also check it isn't just clogged. i had some rain-x washer fluid in my car once and it would clog up the inlet to the motor a little bit and it wouldn't squirt.

i wouldn't bother with either platinums or iridiums. not worth the extra money. what are they now, like $25 or $30 a plug? for a similar amount you can get a full set of coppers that will work just as well and last nearly as along. i had coppers in my 33 and pulled them out after 10,000kms of reasonably hard driving and they were still fine. when i got the car it had iridiums in it that were only about 25,000kms old and they were stuffed. and i know people who haven't gotten 15,000kms out of coppers without any issues. my advice would be to save your money and go the coppers. i ran both BKR6ES and BCPR6ES in the 33. the BCP plug is 2.5mm taller (height from thread to top of plug where it goes into the coilpack) but the BKR still contacts the coil fine. the section that goes into the cylinder is the same though.

sounds a bit like a coil pack issue, but could also be an issue with the TPS. you are opening the throttle and the tps isn't registering the movement so isn't telling the ecu to add more fuel.

could also be an exhaust leak somewhere. that is a common cause of popping on decel. a mate of mine had a cracked header in his falcon and it would backfire and shoot flames about 2 foot out the exhaust when he lifted off. was somewhat amusing to watch at night.

yeah go a NA 33. or a rb25de powered 32. wouldn't bother with a rb20de 32 though, unless you can find one dirt cheap. they are a little bit under powered for the size of the car they are in. that's only because nissan didn't put wipers on the side mirrors, LOL but in all seriousness, if you are scared of driving a skyline in the wet you need to grow a brain. you know that pedal on the right? well if you don't push it to the floor everytime you take off in the wet you won't be swinging off the wheel trying keep it off the gutters. and have a look at the inside edge of the tyres. just because there is plenty of tread on the outside doesn't mean there will be on the inside, and that's the bit that is contacting the road the most.

that 3 to 4k would probably be for a rebuilt with new pistons, not second hand ones. or they were simple guessing. yes it would only take a professional mechanic only a few days to get it done, but it would be a few days of solid work, and when they can charge anywhere from $50 to $100 an hour, the money adds up quick. plus there is the costs of gaskets, etc. plus if they get the head machined, that can set you back even more money. my brother in law put a new head gasket on his patrol. did it all himself and all he didn't do himself was machining the head. the head machine, gasket kit and something else cost him close to $1000. but then i had a head gasket replaced on my falcon a few years back and that only cost me $800, but that was through a small mechanic where the labour charge was pretty low. had i gone through the ford dealer it would've been twice that at least.

+1 for gasket being gone

umm, i can't see how heating the thermostat from both sides can make it open differently to heating it from 1 side. only 1 side of the thermostat controls the opening of the thermostat, so dunking it in water is fine. and besides, that's what the nissan workshop manual says to do. could possibly be the new water pump that is the problem. it may pump coolant with no thermostat but the added restriction of the thermostat may be too much for a weak pump. also there will be a small amount of flow even without a water pump.

have a search around the forums for the part number for the bonnet struts for a cefiro. the cheapest option would be to retro fit them to the skyline. be a lot cheaper than getting the teins or taking the car to a professional.

stupid spammer koont

stupid spammer koont

problem is that the pedestrians are the ones who are the risk to the cyclists. the dopey flamin mongrels with ipods who step out in front of them without looking. in fact i had one do it when i was in the car. didn't even look just stepped out onto the road. luckily i was watching him and thinking to myself "i bet he doesn't even look". wasn't a young guy either. he was probably 55.

yeah that sounds about right.

i wouldn't exactly call a rb25det sluggish down low. certainly not like a rb20 or sr20. sure a de+t will have even more low end than a det, but the det isn't that bad to start with. i was making 14psi by around 2700rpm on the stock turbo. i think people should point out the exact cost and work involved of converting the det to a de. you all make it sound so easy. "yeah just slap some pistons in and a natro ecu and she's apples mate". a bit more complicated than that. azzafreddy, your mate who "knows his shit", has he ever rebuilt an engine, or does he just know the technical side of things (how much power cars make, etc)? if he hasn't ever rebuilt a motor, then you may want to rethink your approach to this. while it isn't rocket science to rebuild an engine, it also isn't as easy as changing a tyre. there is a lot of work involved, and a lot that can go wrong if you don't do things properly, or have the correct tools. while i'm all for learning by doing, don't bite off more than you can chew. while people in here are saying it would be a waste to not do it, it would be more of a waste to do it incorrectly and end up with a blown engine.

if i'm every looking at buying a vy r8 i'll make sure to contact you first to make sure it's not this car, LOL

wow, that went way off topic, LOL. being from the wasteland, i'm impressed at how random that post was.