mad082

hello and welcome. i must say that you are already in my bad books though as i was expecting this thread to be more about a new girl joining, LOL

get yourself a test light or a multi-meter and go looking in the wiring. first find out if the wires at the back of the unit are getting power. then, if they aren't make sure the fuse is getting power. if the fuse is but the wires aren't then you know it's somewhere between the fuse and the lighter that isn't getting power. could also just be the earth wire is a bit dicky if the wires at the back are getting power.

yeah i have a set of allen keys with those ball ends on them i use at work. i think half of the small ones have broken off, LOL. all the ones from 4mm and up are still holding up well despite some pretty hard use, but they are a good set.

and skyline owners talk the same was as well. basically it's the same shit with a different brand. nearly every fan boy is going to say that their car is faster than a different make, reguardless of whether it actually is or not.

probably be a close race and come down to who gets the better launch. sure the fwd is a bit harder to launch, but they aren't that hard but the honda's aren't exactly torque monsters so wheelspin is less of an issue. go and try and launch a manual 3.5L magna and you will find it a bit harder. both cars being dead stock and with a decent launch from each vehicle i think i would probably have to put my money on the honda though.

oh and there is no way the starter motor can be affecting anything (unless it wasn't dissengaging, but then it would be making bad noises when driving). the starter motor only activates when you turn the key to start. other than that you could take it out of the car and leave it at home and only put it in to start the car in the morning (as long as you didn't have to stop anywhere where you couldn't park on a hill to roll start it, or stall it)

yes BCPR6ES are 0.8mm off the shelf. if they have -11 on the end then they are the 1.1mm version. the suddering etc while spooling may be caused by the sparkplugs not able to ignite the fuel either because they are fouled/worn or because the coil packs are weak and arcing out. while you have the coils out to change the plugs i would tape up the stems of the coils and the base of them with electrical tape and see if that also helps the problem

you would need a pretty small G clamp to be able to do it with the calipers fitted. and even then you wouldn't be able to get the pads out. have to remove the calipers, but that is generally only 2 bolts to remove them anyway, so not a lot of work

spray it in through a vaccum line into the plenum. you don't have to spray it at the same time as you crank though. you can spray it into the engine just before you crank it over if you are doing it by yourself.

+1 for the G clamp, but i have also used a set of multi-grips in the past on a car with single piston brakes.

how old is the battery, and what sort is it (cheap quality or better one)? also have you tried letting the fuel pump prime fully before you start it? and what heat range plugs are you running?

if the clutch is slipping then the revs should rise but not your speed. what sort of revs are you getting the lag at? is it always at a certain rpm or can it do it at any rpm? the r33's have a bit of a flat spot at 4500rpm when the VCT turns off. otherwise it could be your plugs or coils not coping that well with the sudden increase in fuel.

well it really comes down to what boost you are running. and i am assuming it is just a stock replacement turbo and stock ecu? if you are running boost above about 12psi then the missfire could be (and most likely will be) caused by the ecu being a buzz kill and not liking the amount of airflow it is seeing. only way around it is aftermarket ecu or to lower the boost. most likely cause though is a mix of coils and plugs. weak coils and/or plugs would cause the stalling pulling up to the lights, especially if you have an atmo bov. start with the plugs as they are the cheapest at about $30 for a set of BCPR6ES.

there will be a bit of a power difference with the different gearboxes. auto gearboxes are heavier and generally take more power to drive, and at lower revs they are less efficient as the lock up torque converter isn't engaged or they aren't pumping enough fluid to get the gearbox spinning quickly. basically it means that you can be reving higher than what the gearbox is turning, like when a clutch is slipping in a manual. once the torque converter locks in it is like being in a manual with the clutch out. whatever the revs do the gearbox does. you put the foot down and the revs won't pick up before your speed does.

another thing to point out for the sake of this argument is that the oils with the 2 numbers are called multi vis (viscosity) oils, hence they have 2 numbers. old single weight/vis oils only ever have 1 number

i think the reasoning may actually be to do with the cost of production. the companies initially were making them to see how they would be recieved by the market and there are plenty of small petrol motors on the market to use as a base unit in the vehicle, so it was a case of get an existing engine and slap an electric motor on the back of it as it would be cheaper than getting a small diesel engine designed and manufactured to put in it. and the fact that it was costing so much money to make the car to start with. and i find the whole idea of hybrids ironic. sure they produce less emissions when running, but the manufacturing emissions far outweigh those savings.

yeah all s13 vehicles (that includes ALL 180's even the late ones with the black top motor as they are still a s13 and the engine is still a redtop which has had the rocker cover changed to black) are 4 stud. as for being under braked, i thought that the bigger brakes weren't standard on all turbo 32's and were only on the type m 32's, unlike the 33's which all turbo models had them. i could be wrong though. never really took much interest in the finer details of the 32 models. also i would have to say that the sr20 is a superior engine to the rb20. sure they have rocker issues when held on the limiter for a while, but other than that i would say they are more reliable than a rb20. less issues with turbo failure thanks to steel wheels, and with the rb20 turbo failure can also come engine failure if parts of the turbo make it into the engine.

hi josh

i'm not a big fan of profile cranks. sure they are good, but there is other stuff just as good, if not better at the same price. i'd be going something like the colony colonial cranks. as for fitting them. it's not harder than fitting shimano cranks really. you install one side of the bearings, slide the spindle through a bit, slide in the spacer then install the second bearing cup, then just plap around with the spacers until you get the right chainline and the right amount of spacers to have the second arm sit properly and have both arms clear the frame.

i'm not entirely sure, but i think they can vary depending on which model stagea it is, as some have the neo engine like the r34. but i'm not sure about it. never really paid much attention to stagea motors and specs

cara are you saying you got the tune done and the CAI, or just the CAI? cause if the tune was done at the same time then that probably has more to do with it than the CAI. i used to have a magazine where they fitted a CAI and k&n panel filter to a car and did before and after dyno runs. don't remember too much about the article but i remember the key figure. on a car making around 125rwkw i think it was, the difference in max power with both the CAI and filter was 4kw of the stock snorkel and paper filter.

i think you also need to find out how exactly they are going to test the exhaust level. sitting the car on the spot and revving it isn't the proper way, yet it is the most common way they test it. the proper way to test it is with a driveby test, which is supposed to be done with the car accelerating from 60kmh in 3rd or something like that.

very nice. very nice indeed. i must say that i'd have made the same decision if i had a spare few hundred thousand sitting around and wanted a new car..... well that is if all the lambos were sold out, LOL

ok, had a quick look at what i have in old stuff. got 1 set of bmx cranks but not really ideal as they have a 22mm spindle so since you are running it with a euro BB set it will destroy bearings pretty quick. the downside to running a bmx crank is that you can't keep the external bb shell which gives you better bearing life. but going to a bmx crank you are getting a much stronger crank and the weight difference isn't that much. if you are worried about it you could always put a titanium spindle in it. and bmx cranks are cheaper than mtb cranks. i looked up the price of a set of xt cranks before and the wholesale price on them is about the retail price on a good set of bmx cranks. and then once you take into account the cost of a sprocket and bb set the bmx cranks would still be cheaper and stronger.

so you are only running it as a sinlge speed? why not change to a set of bmx cranks? much stronger. i may be able to hook you up with a set of old cranks and a 25t sprocket. all you would need to do is buy a bearing set for about $50