mad082

maybe you weren't driving in pooring rain with bald tyres on a road where a car had just had it's sump plug come out. all that saying "frying the tyres in 4th" says to me is that you either talk a lot of shit or really need to stop buying the absolute cheapest tyres on the market. and there is no way a rb20 could fry the tyres in 4th on a stock ecu.

haven't been in the NA section for a few days, so thought i'd stop back in and see what was going on. good to see there are still idiots in here making posts that make us guys in wasteland look intelligent, LOL ok lets list off reasons why not to get aany product that makes your car sound like it has a turbo when it doesn't: 1: proves you are a ricer wannabe 2: after you get beaten by a commodore or falcon they will brag to their mates because they think they beat a turbo car 3: they look extremely crap because you can see this shiny thing sitting up the exhaust 4: harden the f**k up and buy a turbo car if you want the whistle. if you are on your p's and can't legally drive a turbo car, just wait until you can. that way you will hopefully have some of your stupidity out of your system by then. 5: let's say you don't do the clamp up properly and the thing comes flying out and hits a pedestrian and hurts them. or it comes out and narrowly misses a bikie following you, resulting in him pulling up next to you at the next intersection and kick your door in

i highly doubt it would be the issue. otherwise all the guys with turbo cars would have issues when they upgraded their pumps. what is probably happening is that before it was running lean and now it isn't and your coil packs are arcing out as they aren't able to ignite the extra fuel

yeah i posted a bike waaaaaay back.

nah, redline choppper

yup

pretty much anything in 12" and 16" bikes comes with training wheels. but in my opinion you are best of taking them off before the kids gets the bike and teach them to ride a bike without them. they will learn to ride much quicker and they can become too dependant on them and won't ride without them

just go into your local shop and they will hook you up with something. just make sure it has pump up tyres and steel wheels. 12" is the size you would be wanting. 16" would be too big.

yeah i realise that. my next daily driver is going to be a commodore wagon. as for the people who are recommending a forester wagon, how many of you have ever sat in the back of one? i have and it's pretty cramped. would be ok if you only have kids, but if you were taking adults i wouldn't get one. leg space sucks majorly. commodore/falcon/magna are about the only cars i can honestly say that i can comfortably travel in the back seat on trips over about half an hour.

i have to agree about not liking it edit: since i opened this link and then posted it has been moved.

just to clarify, the vaccum line goes from the plenum to the little black box (located on the back of the drivers side strut tower) and then there are wires that go to the gauge in the dash. it is very common for this vaccum hose to split as they are getting old now.

how did you clean the carbon off?

+1 for not touching a 32 gtr for 15k. also +1 for looking at a 33. you could pick up a nice one for 15k that will have some decent mods, or buy a relatively stock one and do mods to get you up around 250 to 260kw.

air filter will have nothing to do with it, (unless you didn't take the wrapping off). more than likely a spark issue caused by dodgy coils or plugs. but you haven't exactly given us much info to work on

yes atomising the fuel. that is what i was meaning

ask the ladies if they agree, LOL

my guess is that you would lose power compared to the DE version for various reasons. first of all, carby's don't give the same sort of fuel input as injectors. they don't vapourise it as well is about the best way i can describe it at the moment (brain isn't working today). i know that on the EA falcon they did 2 versions of the 3.9L engine. 1 was a single injection (basically a carby) and the other was multi-point injection (6 injectors). there was a 17kw difference in power. secondly, you would need to do a lot of work to get the intake manifold right to suit the flow of the carbies. you can't just simply bolt on a carby and have it work. thirdly, i think twin 350's would probably be way too big for a 3L engine. and i highly doubt it would rev harder. i don't think it would be a good idea. and the way it sounds like you plan on going about doing it sounds like it isn't going to end well. sounds like it will end with a poorly performing engine

does the rb30 one look the same? i have a feeling it should work, but i'm not 100% sure

i just tried doing it and it appears you have to sign up to use it.

that's ok but not great. if it was round town then it's good, but on the highway it's not great. i know it's a smaller car, but in the SSS pulsar i can get that sort of running costs/economy from highway driving and i didn't have to spend a few thousand dollars to do it. a few months back i had to take mum down to brisbane. 380km round trip (after work to make matters worse), over half the trip in 110kmh zone which makes it use that little bit more fuel than the 100kmh zone, probably at least 20 or 30km of driving through the centre of brissy and occasionally playing silly buggers. filled up before i left and when i got home. put in 98 octane (even though i normally run it on e10 and don't usually see much of a difference between the 2 in economy) and it cost me under $30 (think it was about $28). so as i said, if that was highway economy, a few thousand dollars out of pocket and losing my boot space to save $2 when i fill up doesn't seem worth it, LOL

after you washed the engine did you dry any water out of the coilpack valley? if not then i'd say you've fried the coils. they will arc out something major when there is water in there (know from experience) and i would assume that if you don't dry it out the coils would just keep arcing out and end up creating weak spots where they will continue to arc out even when dry. also the car should run even without the coolant sensor plugged in.

plenty of cars have that. the magnas do, the pulsar does. but direct exhaust injection or whatever it was wasn't just a small pipe that allows a very small amount of gas through which is controlled by a valve. this was having the header pipes run over the top of the engine and into the throttlebody. there was NO actual exhaust outlet here is the actual drawing the guy posted (with added fail comment)

yeah it sounds like some sort of restriction/air bubble. have you properly bled the system using the air bleed screw? as you said, pull the thermostat out and shove the hose in there and try and flush it out with pressure.

ummm, do the speedo's even use a cable? i thought they were an electronic speedo (look analogue but are a digital gauge). when i have taken out my dash in my 33 i never saw a speedo cable. i'm pretty sure they use a small little sender that screws into the gearbox that has a little wheel on it which then sends a signal to the ecu and the dash. i would try and borrow a consult cable and see if the ecu is getting a speedo signal. this will tell you whether the speedo sender unit is stuffed or if it is just a short in the wiring.

i would assume it would. may have a slight issue with some of the plugs for the gearbox, but other than that the actual engine side of things would work fine