mad082

if you only wanted to pretend, but a frigging bicycle. that way you are pretending you give a damn AND are actually helping the environment at the same time, LOL

+1 for the aussie junker. going to have more room than most jap cars, excellent seats, more than enough power for daily driving, cheap to buy, cheap to insure and cheap to fix. i find commodores and falcons more comfortable on long drives because of the reach adjustable steering. i can put the seat back a long way (get sore knees with the seat forward) and bring the steering wheel back to suit. in other cars i've had (180sx, r33 and n15 pulsar) i have to have the seat further foward so i can still comfortably/safely have the steering wheel where i want it and when i go on trips of anything over about an hour i start to get a cramp in my left leg. never had that issue in a commodore or falcon or magna. also where i live the roads are pretty crap and the aussie cars ride better. and even the sedans have a massive boot. depreciation on them isn't too bad either in the 10 to 15k mark because they have already dropped most of their value in the first 2 or 3 years.

pffft, i got a bike here with a 4.25" tyre

hi and welcome. be interesting to see how it handles

needs bigger tyres..... LOL

oh ok. i prefer the sedan over the 3 window, but still like the 3 window. and the missus wants a 59 impala.

but the shit that goes into the atmosphere when creating the prius is much worse. basically you could compare it to PETA buying pens with ink made from baby seal blood.

go and talk to a LPG conversion place for prices. as for performance, the amount you spend on it won't be very good bang for your buck. you could spend the money on other mods and gain way more power. and don't think you are going to save any money on fuel by doing it. maybe if you plan on keeping the car for 15 years and plan on doing LOTS of driving you might eventually see it pay for itself, but generally you won't. yes LPG is cheaper but you also have to use more of it to make the same power, so it sort of averages out. here's a quick idea of what sort of savings it would have to have. if you put $50 worth of fuel in your car every week, that is $2600 a year on fuel. at that sort of rate it would take you 4 years to pay off the conversion

just what the forum needs. another spam thread

hey man, welcome. got any pics of the 32 ford? i'm a bit of an early ford fan. my in-laws are rodders.

good aftermarket ecu would be a Z32 ecu with a nistune board in it. also the best bang for your buck option. will set you back around $1000 as for injectors, i agree with just getting the stock ones cleaned professionally. as for spark plugs, BCPR6ES would be my recommendation. try new plugs before going new coils. much cheaper and can sometimes solve missfire issues if they are simply caused by worn plugs.

wobbling noise could also be the sign of a wheel bearing on it's way out, or your brake pads getting low (if they have a wear tab on them that is designed to make a rubbing noise once the pad gets low so you know you need new pads)

could possibly be that the new water pump was dodgy.

wouldn't hurt to replace it to be on the safe side, however if it isn't the issue then you have wasted a few hundred dollars. you would be best off putting the car on a dyno to get the AFR's checked to see if it is leaning out. that way if the AFR's are fine you can put the money towards finding out exactly what is the cause.

could possibly be the switch. get a multimeter and check to see if the first 2 speeds of the wipers are getting a voltage.

also the iridiums don't last that much longer than the coppers for the price. i pulled out my coppers after 10,000kms and they were still fine. probably could've gotten another 5000kms out of them easy. iridiums won't last the 100,000kms that they quote. that is best case scenario. my car had iridiums in it when i bought it and they were approx 20,000kms old and they were stuffed. i'd much rather use the cheaper plug and replace them more often.

that pwc clip is pretty stupid. to be honest i could get the exhaust that clean with a sponge and the stuff i use to wash the car with. or even just a can of $2 degreaser, considering he spends a good 30 seconds scrubbing it with that brush. the brush is what made it clean, not the chemical.

could possibly be an alternator issue or a battery issue, but as trident said, bit hard to diagnose over the net. i'd start by getting yourself a multimeter and checking the voltage of the batter with the car off as well as when the car is running

generally if the fuel pump is playing up it will usually only be in the high end where it starts to lean out. generally it should be fine at lower rpm as the fuel being used is very low so the pump should be able to flow well enough.

i am assuming the '97 one is still from a r33? if so then it should be fine. but i'd get some other opinions as well. although i have run ecu's with different numbers on them in the one car before with no issues. and 1 was a series 1 and the other a series 2

spark plugs : BCPR6ES. should cost you about $4 or $5 a plug. don't bother with iridiums oil: something in a full synthetic in about a 5w30 or 10w 40. the recommended weight by nissan is 7.5w30 if i remember correctly. really depends on what sort of driving you are doing and how modded it is.

by fan i am assuming you mean the one inside the cabin? if so then it will be a little resistor type thing that controls the speed (can't think of the proper name at the moment. brain isn't working). there are 2 options. buy a second hand unit from the wreckers, or try and source a new one through nissan.

are you wanting bigger injectors or just replacement stock ones? if going bigger then don't forget you need some sort of aftermarket engine management to run the bigger injectors. also look online for coil packs. they will be cheaper.

it is probably the coils packs. just check that all the coils are plugged in properly. more than likely has nothing to do with having the service done.

you can get 20" mtb's that have 6 or 7 gears. whatever you do don't get a 20" with a triple chainring crankset. they don't have long enough chain stays to properly run a triple chainring set so you end up with plenty of chain issues. you can also get 24" road bikes, but he wouldn't be big enough to ride one at 6. he would only just fit onto a 20" mtb at 6 unless he is very tall. nah they are no worse than mtb's for knee injury. and gearing is moderate. not too easy but not too hard. i have crappy knees and i had no issues racing my 20". but you could always go a 24" if you are worried about it.