mad082

i don't think it should alter anything as the rpm signal is a pulse signal. also i doubt it would be any different to hooking up anything else that uses a rpm signal such as a tacho

it's only 3 weeks. if it was 6 months then maybe, but not 3 weeks. but then if it was 6 months you wouldn't want to have a full tank of fuel as higher octane fuels go stale (loses its octane rating) quicker than lower octane fuels so you wouldn't want to drive it much (or very hard) if the car had been sitting for a long time and the fuel had gone stale.

i think the reason why some older cars don't like E10 is that there is a build up of crap in the tank, fuel lines and filter than the ethanol dissolves and deposits them in the filter or injectors.

i'm too jdm to say jdm

ahahaha snap!

ok first of all, from watching the video i can say that your suspension is definately your first main problem. there is very little sag in the rear so you aren't getting enough weight over the rear tyres for traction. for drag racing you want soft rear suspension, not hard. the softer the better. and your camber probably doesn't help either. secondly, are you heating the tyres up first or just trying to take off on cold tyres? if you are just taking off on cold tyres without doing a big smokey burnout first, that will be your second issue. also your seem to be running a fair bit of air in the tyres in the videos (you might not be but it looks like it in the video). that will be your 3rd problem. let the tyres down and you will get much better traction. you'd probably only want about 15psi in the tyres. as for your power, i'd say that the dyno you are on is reading a bit high. i saw in one of your other videos that you said you were making 600hp with a 3037 pro s at 20psi, which is quite a big gap to what everyone around here is making (like about a 200hp difference), so excuse me for calling bullshit. i'm sure that with that turbo the car is making decent power, but i'm not sure it's as high as you think/say. since you were only running 12psi when you lost, i'm not suprised, although i'd say that your traction issues aren't because of your tyres but your general setup as you wouldn't be making that much power to fry the tyres if the setup is good. also how old are the tyres? maybe they are old and have gone hard.

exactly. there have been so many release dates so far and they just keep getting put off. i think that by the time it does finally get released it will be a massive failure. not because the game will be bad but because so many people will have gotten fed up with waiting and gone out and bought an x-box and forza 3. the longer they dick around with the release the less money they are going to make. also the march release is only for the japanese version, so we might not get it until a few months after that.

if your battery goes flat after not being driven for 3 weeks then the battery is shot to start with. my mum had an operation on her hand and didn't driver her car for 6 weeks and she just parked the car on the driveway and didn't do a thing and it was fine when she went to drive it the other day. disconnecting the battery will reduce the chance of it being stolen, but if you have an alarm in the car it may stop the siren from going off.

yes it's the exhaust temp light, activated by a sensor in the cat. i think that if it was coming on you would know that you have very lean mixtures as it would be pinging its arse off. generally this light comes on because of the sensor or the wiring in the sensor being damaged. i used to have the light come on when i put the key in the car first thing in the morning if i just turned the ignition to on, even before i had started the car. it would also come on when driving along a bumpy road

just use NGK BCPR6ES plugs (if you want the 1.1mm gap plugs just add 11 onto the end of the part number). they are a heat range 6 plug, but a copper not an iridium so they only cost about $6 each and just change them every 10 to 15,000kms. works out cheaper in the long run than using iridiums in my experience.

pandoraa, how old are the spark plugs? they are something else than can cause a similar issue to coil packs and are something that needs to be replaced more often than the coils.

my bad. i'm dissapointed now

yeah i thought there was a difference in gearing but wasn't sure which had the shorter gearing

i use united e10 95 octane in the pulsar and it has never missed a beat, but it isn't turbo. i'm pretty sure that the shell v-max racing 100 octane is an ethanol blend (98 octane with 5% ethanol which brings it up to 100 octane) and people have been using it without issues. and there are people running on e85 with good results too. although this requires a complete retune

i'm 189cm tall and i ride a 50cm frame with the seat the whole way up cause i like shorter frames (top tube length). last road bike i had was a 55cm frame and i found it a bit long.

firstly, 180kw is a hell of a jump over a stock NA. it is roughly a 60kw jump. what do you think is the reason why a NA+t using stock turbo etc won't make more power than a DET? and what makes you think that just bolting a supercharger on will be better? the reasons why a NA+t will only make as much power as a DET will be the same reasons why you won't get much of a different result with a supercharger install with a budget of 2k. do a NA+t and spend about 5k on the job and it will make a lot more than 180kw, as would a supercharger upgrade at the same money not entirely true. if you have both cars crawl along at about 1500rpm and then floor it the NA will pull away, but if both cars are at around 3000rpm or a bit higher when you floor it the NA will pull away a fraction (doubt it would even be half a car length) as the NA will spool up the turbo quicker then they will both accelerate about the same. at the end of the day 180kw is 180kw. the NA will have more down low but up top they will both go the same. the only other thing that may make a difference is the gear/diff ratios. which ever ones has the shortest ratios will have the quicker acceleration, but will have to change gears sooner.

there are still plenty of ricer mods on skylines as it is. a lot of people class a lancer with an evo bodykit as being ricer, therefore that makes a NA skyline with a GTR bodykit as being ricer as well.

the oil may be different weights, but you still need to change the filters and the general way that you change the oil is the same

oh god, not a TATA. they just go and buy parts (generally left overs) off other manufacturers and make them fit together until they resemble a car.

yeah but it's harder to insanely scream "RB DOES NOT STAND FOR RACE BRED" while beating the snot out of them if you just shoot them. just doesn't have the same effect

ok just looked at the specs and it does have the flip flop hub, so you can put a 15t freewheel on the back. you don't even need to take it to the bike shop to do it. just go and buy a freewheel and screw it onto the side that doesn't currently have the freeheel on there. you can leave the old one on there in case you ever want to change back. i would still take the wheel in with you when you get it simply so you can make sure that the freewheel will fit. just don't let them try and charge you fitting as all you do is screw it in by hand then put the wheel back in the bike and hop on the bike and pedal and that tightens it up. while you can get a freewheel for about $15 (that's what i sell them for but i'm guessing they will be more where you are) i would recommend going to a better one. i recommend the ACS claws freewheel. they will be the right width for your chain and are pretty much the best freewheel on the market. they go for around $40. they are a much nicer freewheel. they have a better pawl system (the pawls are the little things inside that lock in when you pedal) and a tighter spring. and because of this they are much louder and sound a bit like a fishing reel, LOL as for the bike, it looks to be decent spec'd for $1400rrp

well take a picture of the back hub so i can get a better look, but i'm guessing the guy at the bike shop may be a douche who doesn't know what he is talking about.... actually i think i have a masi catalogue round here somewhere from when i was offered the dealership. will have a look

that is like asking how long is a piece of string. unless you can give turbo and supercharger sizes it is a pointless question, if the engine was a rb25 and it was NA + stock turbo or NA + toyota supercharger then i would have to say that the turbo will shit all over it. the toyota supercharger is miles too small to effectively provide enough boost in the top end of a 2.5L. even on a 2L it would struggle. you have to remember that the superchargers are generally for toyota's 1.6L engines. i know people who have put them on commodores before and while they do make a difference it does trail off a bit up top. the commodore motors are a bigger motor, but they don't rev as high as the rb motors so it sort of balances out a bit and brings them closer as far as the volume of air they use

pfft, my dragon will kick your cars arse cause it has NOS stickers

yeah i have to agree. i've never heard of anyone pulling the top of the motor back off to tighten the head bolts again.