mad082

could be: cold start valve IAC valve AAC valve (or a combination of all 3) fouled plugs caused by the above fouled plugs caused by them being too cold temperature plugs weak coil packs or ignitor dirty/faulty AFM and if the ecu is aftermarket, i'd say the tune needs adjusting. also try letting the fuel pump prime properly before turning the car over. there is a small possibility that the valve in the pump is dodgy and letting the fuel drain back.

theoretically speaking you are correct. theoretically you shouldn't see any boost increase from changing the exhaust as the pessure in the intercooler piping is what determines the boost level and you could remove the exhaust all together and it shouldn't alter the boost level. this doesn't always happen in the real world though. sometimes turbulence, etc from aftermarket exhausts can actually restrict the wastegate gases and cause them to have to flow throught the compressor wheel and give you an inceased boost pressure that said, i never saw a boost increase when adding a turbo back exhaust or intercooler, but others have. i still had 7psi all the time using the wastegate and solenoid only with a 3" turbo to cat and 3.5" catback.

i've often wondered how some of these people react if they watch the draw and see their numbers come up and it's a 20 or 30 million dollar but there have been lots of winners so they don't even get 1 million dollars. so they go from thinking they have won millions and turn out to get less than 1 million. surely some of them would actually get disapointed despite the fact that they are still getting a heap of money.

i think you will find that any increase in accidents from increase in speed cameas probably more comes from people driving along, passing a speed camera and then speeding up because they think there won't be another 1 on the same road. and it isn't exactly hard to keep at the same speed without having to stare at the speedo and occasionally glance at the road. it you need to do this to keep at a set speed then i don't think you are a very good driver. i noticed the other day that i can take off and accelerate to 60kmh without looking at the speedo and be within 2 or 3km/h either way just by the sound of the car and how fast the scenery is going by. it isn't that hard to do, and i'm sure plenty of other people could do the same thing if they wanted to but have never been bored enough to try it, or just do it out of habbit and have never thought about what they are doing. i think a lot of people probably get booked for speeding because they are going with the flow of traffic rather than even thinking about their speed. i know that i've been in traffic following the flow of traffic and keep the same distance to the car in front of me and looked down and been doing 5 or 10kmh over and then slowed down. another example of the following what others do without taking notice of what is actually happening is when you are at a set of lights and you are in a turning lane and you get the green light but the othe cars still have a red and you take off and the car next to you takes off and gets a few metres before realising that they still have the red because they were day dreaming. this is probably also the cause of a lot of accidents in city traffic as they aren't paying attention to what is going on then are suddenly snapped back to reality but the quickly approaching tail lights of the car in front. as for the article about reducing the margin, it was originally 10% for back when there were still a lot of cars with speedos reading in MPH and the conversions people were doing in their head from MPH to KPH were generally rounded off a bit and also didn't match up with any of the major marks on the speedo. but now if you were booked for 1kmh over or something like that, you could simply argue that you didn't know what part of the speedo needle was the part to use as the guide of your speed as the needle itself covers a 1 or 2kmh area. also on that topic, with newer cas speedo error, etc, you only really need to worry if you are in a car with tyres that are drastically different to the stock size, such as many 4wd's. i think my brother in law's patol is something like 12kmh out at 100kmh when compared to his GPS. i have compared my speedo to both the GPS as well as having the laptop plugged into the ecu and it is spot on, or maybe 1kmh over at 60kmh. the old van where i used to work though was massively out. it would read 15mph when you were stopped and 30mph at about 60kmh. other times it would read 20mph at 60kmh, but it was a 1954 morris minor panel van, and still ran drum brakes all round (without vaccum assist), so the "2 second rule" for following cars was the "if you can see a car in front of you at all then you are too close" rule, LOL

the poblem with the VN isn't the car itself, its the price of the car (can be bought for unde $1000) and the type of peson who drives any car bought fo under $1000. as for suspension issues, what do you expect for a 20 year old car than on average has driven atleast twice as far, on worse roads that it's jap equivilant, the r32. come and look at some of the s13's and r32's getting round gympie and you'll start to think that some of the vn's you see are clean. i saw a s13 the other day at my mates workshop that had coilovers in it with both front camber tops adjust fully to the left and the camber was still out (needed more adjustment to the left), had play in both front wheels, had a rust hole under the drivers side door sill you could nearly fit your hand through, headlights held in by zip ties, same with the front bar, radiator and cooler, front left 1/4 panel also had some zip ties tolding it on at the bottom, miss matched wheels, half melted rear bar from the exhausts (twin 2.5" that stuck out about 25cm past the back bar, also had no mufflers at all), painted dodgey in matt camo colours with a spray can, and an oil leak and radiator leak. needless to say that it had been defected the night before and was in to get a bit of work done (although all i think he was getting my mate to do was to change the exhaust and wheels). as for the sv5000, there used to be one getting round town here. also a sv3800 and both a VL and VN formula. the VL got written off by the guys brother though when he rolled it about 6 times into a paddock

depreciation has little to do with quality and more to do with quantity. the more people who buy them, the moe people sell them and this drives the price down. and since a lot of falcons, etc are used as government and business cars under lease arangements then sold off after a year o 2, that drops the price quickly. and it isn't just the aussie cars that have it happen. happens to a lot of japanese and european stuff too. nissan themselves caused a massive drop in the N15 pulsar back in the late 90's when the RRP of the vehicle dropped by about $6000 in 1 year, which was about 20% of the value of the car at the time. this is the exact reason why a tidy r33 gts-t often goes for less money than an average r32 gts-t. cause there are a hell of a lot more r33's for sale than there are r32's cause there are a hell of a lot more of them in the country. here's a few stats from an article from 2009 (about cars from 2007) 2007 LARGE CARS (retained value): THE WORST: 1. Ford Falcon BF — 47.9% 2. Mitsubishi 380 — 47.9% 3. Holden Commodore VZ — 48% THE BEST: 1. Ford FPV GT Cobra — 92.2% 2. Mercedes E-Class — 72.9% 2007 MEDIUM CARS (retained value): THE WORST: 1. Saab 9-3 sedan — 56.4% 2. Jaguar X-Type V6 — 56.4% THE BEST: 1. Mercedes C-Class diesel — 80.8% 2. Ford Mondeo LX — 76.7% 2007 SMALL CARS (retained value): THE WORST: 1. Alfa Romeo 147 GTA — 58.9% THE BEST: 1. Honda Civic Hybrid — 87.6% 2007 LIGHT CARS (retained value): THE WORST: 1. Proton Satria — 59.5% THE BEST: 1. Mazda2 — 92.1% 2007 SPORTS CARS (retained value): THE WORST: 1. Citroen C4 VTS — 51.9% THE BEST: 1. Ferrari Scaglietti — 101.9% they also left out the F250 and F350 which gained value at 112% and 122%, since they are out of production now. but note how poorly the jag and alfa held their value. sure they aren't the best models, but still says that it isn't just fords and holdens that lose value

to be honest, i wouldn't have a clue how much fluid you would need for a full change. i'm guessing a few bottles though. as for needing special tools, you may need them for a car with ABS, but if it doesn't then all you need is a spanner to fit the bleed nipple, some tubing that is a snug fit over the bleed nipple and a bottle or container. i think the other thing is that you have to pump the brakes with the car turned off to get rid of any vaccum pressure from the booster first. it is a slow process even at the best of times though. the method where you pump the brakes is a much quicker method. however i think you could probably speed up the gravity method with the use of a large syringe. this is similar to the method used for bleeding brakes on bikes (push bikes). you could use the syringe to suck fluid out of the caliper, but even with a decent sized syringe it would still take a little while.

i forgot to add to make sure that you have plenty of spare fluid if doing it that way. you could simply just bleed it until any bubbles come out, but you would be best of getting all the old fluid out.

yes that is oil pressure, not compression. it has to do with how thick the oil is at different temps. however my 33 used to have higher oil pressure when cold than hot if i remember correctly. may be that your oil pump is dodgy, or your gauge is.

you can gravity feed the lines. for this you just make sure the master cylinder/resevoir is full with fresh fluid, then starting at the wheel furtherest away from the master cylinder just open the bleed screew and let the fluid run out (via a hose into a bottle/container) until it runs clear (meaning new fluid). then close it off, make sure there is plenty of fluid in the resevoir and move onto the next furtherest away wheel. this method can be done with only 1 person.

ford cosworth kind of says it all about ford's racing history. and before anyone says "but that's not actually ford", well nismo isn't exactly nissan either. and i love all the banter about how a gtr is better, etc, well a gtr also cost a hell of a lot more when it was new. like when the r32 beat the commodores and sierras at bathurst when it was still group A. gee i wonder why? maybe it was because nissan engineers made a road car the was specifically designed to win group A racing rather than a car designed to sell in the actual market. they were just lucky that it actually did. also the r32 GTR was over twice the price of the most expensive commodore at the time. so you would assume that it would be a better car. as for the people who have raced falcons with flashtunes etc, what boost was teh car running? there are people out there running stock boost with a flashtune and there are others running much higher boost. also some people are running generic tunes simply to have the boost raised. i know a guy who got a generic tuned flashtune to raise the boost to 9 and 12psi for his BA xr6t. just by plugging in the flashtune and raising the boost to 12psi, without even getting a proper tune on it, he gained just over 50hp. everything else on the car is stock. the other thing you have to remember when comparing it to other cars is not how much it's selling for second hand but how much it cost new. sure you could say that a 350 is a better car, etc, but how much more does it cost new? a new xr6t goes for around 50k and a 350 or 370 goes for around 75k. and considering that the base build qaulity of the falcon is still based off a car that sells for the mid $30,000 mark, what do you expect. you are comparing an optioned up cheap car with a much more expensive car, so of course the build quality will be better on the more expensive car. someone said above that some people need to open the other eye to see the whole picture. i think some people need to open both eyes to see the whole picture.

ummm, if you are using it for a drag car then why did you remove the handbrake? using the handbrake is a good way to load the car up on the startline for a quicker takeoff. as for needing a car for racing against high hp cars on a test and tune made me nearly fall off my chair laughing. do you think that your car is going to be fast enough initially that a high hp car will still be next to you if it loses control? i can see the point in doing it in a faster car, but while the car is still a NA rb30, i wouldn't have bothered.

now i don't mean to sound rude, but you should learn to use the search function. all the questions you have posted can be quite easily answered with a quick search. or you could've asked them all in the 1 thread.

it also really comes down to how you drive. if you only drive around normally and in traffic then that oil you have is fine. if you give it a bit of a hard time then go the better stuff.

i'd price it up before you go ahead and do it. you may find it cheaper to sell yours and buy a manual one, depending on how cheap you can get the parts

to check it you have to contort yourself into a position where you are laying on your back looking up at pedals and the underside of the dash. then just look for where an adjustable rod comes out of the firewall and bolts to the clutch pedal. i can't remember the exact setup so i don't know which way you have to adjust the rod to loosen it. the easiest way to tell is to see what direction the rod moves when you push on the pedal. if when you push on the pedal the rod moves in the same direction as the pedal then to get moe play you want the rod to come back towards the drivers seat. i just remembered something else i was going to add. if it is something that has been slowly getting worse then there is a very small chance the the cluth fork pivot bolt is undoing itselt as this will alter the pivot point. if this is the case then it could snap at any time. be worth checking this. it can be done by lying under the car on the drivers side and looking through the hole in the rubber boot that the clutch fork goes through into the bell housing.

i'd also check the thermostat. i've had similar issues in the past and found it to be the thermostat (but have also had another issue caused by a dodgy fan). the fact that it runs fine when going faster indicates 2 things to me, 1: the fan is dodgy, or 2: the thermostat is dodgy and restricting flow and the fan alone simply can't pump enough air to overcome the heat soak in the engine bay and also can't get enough air through the radiator to get all of the extra heat out of the radiator. the best way to tell if the thermostat is the issue is by how long the car takes to warm up. with a working thermostat the car should be up to temp within about 5 mins of driving (not just sitting there letting it idle for 5 mins). if the car takes much longer than that, or the needle doesn't make it to the halfway mark, or sits lower than halfway when on the highway with the aircon off then the thermostat is the issue as it isn't opening when it should and isn't closing when it should.

yeah i saw a chart similar to that a while back. i never thought that the P meant platinum, but it did help me find out what the difference between the BCP and BKR plugs were. for those that don't know, the BKR plugs are, other than having a grooved tip, a shorter plug. this doesn't affect the lower part of the plug as to how far it goes into the head, but it has to do with the height of the top of the plug. i think the BKR plugs are about 3mm shorter if i remember correctly (been a long time since i last looked). the shorter plug will still work though as it will still make contact with the coilpack

there ae plenty of things to check before looking at headgasket, etc when it comes to heating issues. first is to bleed the system. this is free and a good place to start. also check the clutch fan while you are at it as it's something you can check yourself. also check for any crap between the radiator and the aircon dryer/radiator. this can sometimes get a bit blocked up and educe airflow if the car is often parked unde a tree and leaves fall onto the front bar and get sucked through the grill when the car is started. next is to replace the thermostat as this is something that does need to be replaced over time and would probably be the cause of a lot of heating issues. replace the coolant while you are at it. then you could get the radiator professionally cleaned. in my opinion radiator flushes don't do crap as they don't get out the build up of crap that blocks the radiator core. next on the list is the water pump. if the impellor in this is worn it won't pump the water fast enough and cause heating issues (anyone that has ever owned an outboard will know all about impellors and water pumps) unless there is a reason to check the headgasket (such as oil and water mixing together) or bubles in the radiator when the car is running or the car is hard to start then when it does start blows a heap of white smoke for a short amount of time i don't usually bother. and milky oil or coolant isn't always the sign of a blown headgasket. i've had 2 blow and not ended up with the milk of death, but instead ended up with coolant in the cylinders.

i have to agree about it being a let down. 5 years worth of hype is a hell of a tall order to meet. as it is my expectations of the game are falling as they keep jerking us around with release dates, except there is no chance of me having a "OMG THIS IS EPICALLY AWESOME!!!!11ty!!!" moment as i know the game is going to be good but i don't see it being great. i sort of just see it now as gt4 with better graphics and new cars and tracks. and as i've said ealier, i don't really give a shit about the sound as i'm not listening to it through some big stereo system and when i'm racing i'm usually concentrating on my driving rather than how realistic the engine sounds.

the mitsubishi engines aren't too bad. certainly worse engines out there. your biggest issue won't be with the engine but with CV joints if you give it a hard time. but if you drive it reasonably sensibly then you shouldn't have an issue, although they do eventually wear out on their own. the skyline will have a bit more torque than the fto, however the fto being a lighter car will help a bit with this. performance wise there would be little in it in a real race and would mostly come down to the drivers. but as people said above, don't just go off power outputs to say which is quicker. factory power outputs are at the flywheel so they don't take into account any drivetrain loss, and don't give you an indication of how the powe comes in and where it is in the rev range. you also have to take into account gearing etc (as said above) plus weight. for general diving you won't notice the difference between fwd and rwd (despite what a large amount of people who have never driven a fwd think). it's only when you start to push them that you do and even then it comes down to how well the car is designed. i've driven plenty of fwd cars and some are very similar to rwd, others you can feel the front pulling much more. my 113hp pulsar torque steers much much more than my 170hp magna did (which pretty much had zero torque steer). the magna felt a lot like a rwd car to drive, even when pushing it (other than the understeer when booting it half way through a corner, LOL), unlike the pulsar which you can feel the front leading the way. personally i'd stick with the skyline for various reasons, and none of them are due to me being on a skyline forum.

yeah i sat down one day and picked out 26 numbes or however many you could have on the most expensive systems game, wrote them down on a bit of paper and then checked them the next day. didn't get a single number.

yeah i think i posted this earlier in the thread that i bought a remapped 33 ecu off the owner of the gympie store. as for the prices at autobarn, too many people on here are used to buying stuff from importers, etc who buy stuff direct from the factory etc and cut out the middle man. the actual price that they are buying the stock for is the reason why their prices are so high, not because they are simply ripping people off. a prime example of this: i own a bike store as some of you may know and i had a rep from the company that distributes V drinks come in trying to get me to have a little fridge to sell their drinks. when i looked at the price list the wholesale cost of a can was more than what the local coles, etc sell them for. but when people walk into a shop and see a price higher than what they are used to seeing they just assume that the shop with the higher price is ripping people off. but on the same token, some people assume that the big chain stores are cheaper too. i went into a goldcross (part of the supercheap brand) bike shop down the coast a month or 2 ago to find out that i am $2 cheaper than them on tubes, and some other stuff i have that was the same brand, etc i was half their price ($25 vs $50). then i went next door to BCF (yet another section of the supercheap brand) and was looking at some little plastic clips that i had bought from my local privately owned fishing shop for $2.50 for a pair and BCF had them for $5.95. but then they were cheaper on some big ticket items, which probably came down to them buying in bulk as their price was below the RRP price listed on the companies website. also back when the ps2 first came out i was working at toyworld and i bought my ps2 from eb games down the coast as it was $10 below our cost price (i was storeman at the time so i got to see the invoices so i knew exactly what cost price was. it wasn't just my boss telling me it was below cost or anything). but when i was talking to the salesperson they said that they were still making a profit on it at that price. another time target was selling ps2's for $20 less than wholesale and the sony rep advised my boss to go and buy them from target rather than buying them from sony as he couldn't match the price.

the newsagents up from me have some systems going. one is 4 x system 16's (4 different system 16's). 91 shares in total. 1 share is just over $200. they also do one with a system 15, 16, 17 and 18, again 91 shares and costs a bit over $200 again. i've been in a system 12 or 14 a few times before. once i got about $30 more than it cost me, another time i lost $50. my step mother got a few thousand out of a system 8 once. good luck though, but not too much luck, cause i plan on being the only winner, LOL

i think it is pretty safe to say that you won't see any of the old engines making a comeback. the new emissions laws simply make it too expensive to adapt the old engines so they just start from scratch as they usually have to redesign heads, etc. they may possibly use the same starting code, but the engine wouldn't be much like the old ones.