mad082

what do you mean the timing belt was done 89,000kms ago? you mean it had it done at 11,000kms? or are you meaning it was done at 89,000kms? also if this is your first time changing the oil i don't know if you should takle the timing belt by yourself. it isn't super hard to do, but there is a possibility you could destroy your engine if you do it wrong. and what do you mean you are leaving the spark plugs to the pros? as for the actual method for doing any of this, there would be a write up on pretty much everything you are planning on doing if you search the DIY section

gotta love the massive input these people getting up their post count bring to these types of discussions

it would really come to how the piping is run as to whether the oil drains out when you drop the oil or not. if the cooler is mounted lower than any point in the return line then oil will stay in the cooler. the other way to get the oil out if there is no bung or without pulling a hose off would be to unscrew the cooler and simply lift it in the air and all the oil will run out, but pulling a hose off would probably be easier, just a little bit more messy

i'm honestly not sure, but removing a line would be one way if the cooler doesn't have a bung.

if the oil is going black straight away then it means that there is still a large amount of old oil still in the system, and i would be willing to be that the oil cooler is to blame. depending on how the piping is run to it, there is a good chance that when the oil is being dropped a lot of oil is staying in the cooler and not draining out. this means that when you then run the car the new golden oil is mixing with this black oil and turning your new oil black. no amount of 'detergenting' of the oil should be turning the oil black in such a short period of time.

pull of the airbox and mount the pod where the airbox used to be and enjoy the massive power gains provided by your HAI (hot air induction) /sarcasm

the overall weight of the utes is roughly the same but the distribution of weight is different to the sedans. the weight is more forward on the utes and there is less over the rear wheels. it isn't as huge as people think, but there is certainly a noticable difference in the weight over the rear wheels. with the ute there is more weight on the centre of the chassis which means that some of that weight is over the front wheels, where as a sedan has more weight directly over the rear wheels.

could be diff, gearbox, wheel bearing and possibly be a few other things

any new car power figure quoted in any magazine or book is flywheel power. also they are the factory quoted power so on individual cars it can vary by 5 or 10kw

doesn't suprise me that it hadn't been done with only 81,000kms on the car. the service schedule says to do it at 100,000kms so that's what they do it at even though with low km driving there should also be a time frame thrown in for good measure, people just usually leave it until it gets to the set kms to change it

at a guess, yes. won't sound drasitcally different as the general design of the engine will determine the exhaust note, but the volume and drone, etc will be altered by putting on different mufflers

if it was the gearbox it should've done it before the exhaust got fitted. could possibly be that the exhaust is hitting the body though. might be worth getting under the car to see if it is sitting close to anything. or maybe have someone stand on the side of the road and go past them with it making the noise and they should be able to tell if it is exhaust noise or a rubbing noise

i'm sorry, but when did the rb20 every win the ATCC? because as far as i'm aware the r31 only won about 4 or 5 races and was generally being beaten by ford sierras. but feel free to show info proving otherwise, but i know for a fact that dick johnson won both 1988 and 89 ATCC titles in a sierra (with team mate john bowe second both years), jim richards won the 87 titles in a bmw m3 (and glenn seton was second in a dr30 but that was FJ20 powered AFAIK), and we all know that the 1990 ATCC was won by the GTR. so at no time did the rb20 hold any title in australia. unless of course you got a hold of one and then (if you had the right setup) you could make a copy for under $1500 and then it would be just as good and a darn sight cheaper

maybe you should look at either losing the ricer cannon and getting a decent muffler or just getting a centre muffler/resonator

but if you still want the twin tip look, just buy a twin tip muffler to suit the system you buy.

you will get better performance from doing that too

love the name

LOL

from the info i have seen the skyline 2 doors were generally about the same price, or cheaper than their sedan counterparts (when comparing the same model such as gt-t sedan and coupe of the same year).

back pressure isn't good with performance. if you want peak power and are going to drive around constantly above 5000rpm then you want a nice big exhaust (but not too big) that flows well. however if you are going to just putter around town at low revs then there is no need to have a massive big exhaust as it won't flow any better, and can even negatively effect the flow at low revs. it might be good in the higher revs, but if you are going to be doing most of your driving at low then you want an exhaust tuned for that rev range, which is what most factory headers are.

yeah it's only a rb30, definately not worth the iridiums. then again i don't think many engines are worth the extra money for iridiums as they don't last long enough to outway the extra cost in my experience

would be unusual for so much to evaporate in such a short time.

how many litres are you classing as a full tank as "a full tank" isn't a unit of measure and may also be the reason why you haven't see the light yet as you may still have a few litres to go before it comes on. gemerally it comes on with about 8-10L left in the tank, so that would mean about 55 to 60L used (depending on how much you fill up after the first click)

the problem with the stock gauge is that it sits at normal from around 70 or 75 degrees all the way up to around 100 or 105 degrees. and then it will suddenly jump up from there. and a car doesn't have to be tracked or dragged to run hot. often they can get hotter sitting in traffic than out on a track where there is plenty of air flowing through the radiator. it could also be that you have done a headgasket, as oil in the water or water in the oil doesn't always occur. but best to speak to your mechanic about it. just a thought, but was the coolant that he put in green? i have seen some redish coloured coolants before (i think repco do one) so if you hadn't taken any notice of the colour until now it may be that he just used a different colour coolant and there is no problem at all

no suprises to see it turbocharged. i didn't really think they were going to make a NA sports car just to keep the ae86 boys happy when most of the other cars these days are going turbocharged