mad082

well maybe if they stopped adding in extra cars (like the prototype of the ft-86 g sport) it might get out quicker. and maybe they should hire more staff so they can get the game released while they still have a fan base big enough to make the game profitable. that is only because japan was the only place to have a release date. and if japan doesn't get it, the rest of the world won't either. otherwise it would be like nissan designing the GTR then saying that japan won't get it but the rest of the world will.

there is also the possibility that the radiator is only just coping with the aircon off, but then the extra load of the aircon plus the extra heat from a normally functioning condenser is just enough to put it over the edge. the main reason i say this is that for the temp gauge to be going up above the normal spot it has to be extremely hot, petty much at the danger level. so it would have to be hot to start with because normally from normal running temp to getting it to go to hot is 15 or 20 degrees, which is a hell of a lot of extra heat to be caused by the aircon condenser. so i'm guessing the cooling system isn't coping to start with.

i disagree after owning 2 v6 magna's. sure they might not handle quite as well, but they aren't that much heavier and have much more torque to make up for the extra weight. the on;y model that is sluggish is the 4 speed auto (5 speed auto is fine) and that is because it has ridiculously tall gearing. i'm talking 150kmh in second. seriously, people take these to the drags and can cross the line redlining second gear. as for fwd being a bad thing, that is a highly uneducated response that gets thrown around way too often these days. basically it is said because you can't be some fuli hektic drifta wannabe in a fwd car, but who really cares? yeah, as a very rough rule, flywheel kw = hp at the wheels (then divide by 1.34 to get kw at the wheels). but as i said, it's a rough rule and doesn't work for everything +1. my manual 3.5L magna with just a catback ran a 14.8 at willowbank. also outright power doesn't mean you are going to beat something with similar power. so many other things come into play. i'd put money on my 88fwkw pulsar keeping up or beating half of the skylines on here that are making more power, for the simple fact that it weighs about 200kg less.

and i bet it's going to sound like a chainsaw having a screaming orgasm like all other lambos too (which is a good thing)

the new subaru engines are pretty reliable, as are most other japanese engines these days. as for the partnership, i don't see it as that odd. certainly been more odd ones in the past. as for the engine, i can't think of any rwd toyota vehicles using a 4 cylinder design that are current other than commercial vehicles (utes and vans). same goes for nissan (they do a 6 but not a 4). but the subaru engines are the right setup all they have to do is lose the transfer box and its a rwd. and it is a good way for subaru to possibly get into the rwd sportscar game, provided they don't make their car an awd version.

not really mods, but check tyre pressure and wear. low tyre pressures and incorrect alignment create extra resistance. and depending on driving style, sometimes the stock exhaust can be better for fuel economy than an aftermarket one as a lot of the time the stock exhausts perform better down low and if you only use low revs and don't rev it's ring off then the stock exhaust will be better for you. but a ecu upgrade of some sort will help as it will allow you to tune it to make sure it isn't running too rich. that said, you are getting pretty good economy as it is, depending on your driving and how much fuel you are classing as a tank (how many litres not where the needle on the gauge is, cause that doesn't mean squat). and why did you leave it so long between services? you are about 10,000kms or more overdue for an oil change. not the best thing to do to en engine.

how can they slam the brakes on gt5? it was fucking stopped anyway but i can honestly say that i'm not suprised. screw the fans, just do whatever makes more money seems to be sony's latest business plan. i wasn't expecting it to be released outside of japan in march anyway. the stupid thing is, why are they planning it for the american spring/summer. i would've thought that the ideal time to release it in places where it snows is in winter when it's too cold to go outside so people spend all their time inside. but then they don't have their long school holidays at xmas time like we do, they have them in spring, so that's when all the nerds will be able to play it for hours on end without having to leave their house to get beaten up at school

if the coilpacks were plugged in correctly on the loom it would be a possibly cause, however the idle would be more affected as well. i would be looking at new coils also

are the welsh plugs on that side of the motor? also they may not have had the rear hose to the turbo replaced. i'd check that first

why don't you invent some speed operated tyre spikes? if a car goes over a certain speed up the street the tyre spikes deploy, as well as a big safety net to stop the car from going out of control into a house. or like what they have on air craft carriers, have a big hook that catches onto the diff (or rear axle in a fwd car) and slows the car before yanking the arse end of the car off. that'll at least stop them using the street for hooning in the future

yeah the same goes for stainless. it is usually slightly thinner than mild steel as well, so gives a slightly different note. however for the actual muffler itself this effect is lessened compared to the piping as there is the muffler packing to reduce the difference.

the engine may have a small amount of build up but not as much as the radiator. the small tubes in the radiator get blocked rather easily.

ok cool. just making sure you realised there was 3 positions, or weren't having a brain failure. just fo shits and giggles try it on the 'on' location and see if that does anything. may possibly be that the switched was bumped to the middle from the side and that's why it has started staying on. but it isn't hard to look at the light switch and suss out if something is going on.

yes that is correct that they are set to, as near as makes no difference, 10psi. however i have a feeling that while they will fit on a 33, they aren't a 100% straight swap and just need a slight alteration done which isn't too hard. but i'm not too sure on that. been a long time since i looked into it

i'd rather get book for speeding and have to walk eveywhere than own an iphone, LOL and you can join websites that have user submitted mobile speed camera locations, but they sometimes charge a joining fee. the site i got the free fixed camera locations from had them but i wasn't going to pay to join. as it was i cheated the system to get the spoken audio alert for the speed cameras and redlight cameras (only got the redlight cameras one because there is a redlight camera in town but the nearest fixed speed camera is about an hour away so i wouldn't to see if they worked). you had to join the site to get the spoken warning, but they had a link where you could play the warning to hear what it sounded like, so it was just a case of *right click on link*, *save link as..* and bob's your aunty, spoken warning for speed cameras and redlight cameras

this pipe you are talking about, get a pick if you could. does it go down into the inner guard or something like that? if so then i'm guessing it's a resonator box designed to reduce intake noise in the induction system.

fair enough, then in that case, 180sx or s14, depending on what you like the look of more. if you go the s13 then just get a BB t28 turbo off a late model s14 or s15 and you'll be laughing. they go good on 15psi even with the stock ecu (or even with the stock bush bearing t25 turbo at 15psi).

i would be looking firstly at the IAC and AAC valves. they control the idle IAC, as well as the idle when things like the aircon is turned on or the steering is turned and more load is put on the engine at idle (AAC). these valves often get dirtied or blocked by carbon and don't operate properly because they become sticky. this is why sometimes turning the car off, or even just giving it a rev can be enough to make it idle better as you are making the valve move even more which can be enough to temporarily sort the issue out. i'm guessing that isn't your car in the video and you are just using it as an example of what the car runs like? if so then the above is what i would do. if it is your car (even though the video is from october 08 and plenty of people have said what the problem is in the comments) then i would plumb the bov back in to where it's supposed to recirculate to (between the AFM and turbo) and that will solve the issue.

ok since it is a bit hard to work out your knowledge of the light from your post, i'm going to be pretty blunt about it and i don't mean this to sound rude or anything, so don't take it that way. what setting are you putting the light on to get the light to come on? there are 3 settings in the light, on, door and off. generally off will be all the way to one end, door will be in the middle and on will be at the other end. if you are simply moving it from one extreme to the other then you are missing out the door function in the middle which is when the light goes out if you shut the door. if you are putting it on the right setting and both door and on are making the light stay on regaurdless of where the door is then i'm guessing there is a short in the wiring. i doubt it would be in the door switch as that is making the dash light go off and they generally work off the same circtuit. i would guess that the terminal in the light swith itself is dodgy and shorting it out. pop the cover off the light and have a look. you may even have to unscrew the light from the roof depending on the terminal setup as some have the contact on the rear.

also while on the topic of experience and knowledge, the sales people have to start somewhere. the businesses simply can't only employ experienced people. if they did, then in 20 or 30 yeas time there would be no-one around to work in the shops as anyone with expeience would be retiring and since no young people have been given the opportunity to get experience, the number of available people would decrease. but i have the same complaints about this forum as a lot of people do about autobarn stores. you post up a question and you used to get plenty of good answers. now you get a few good answers and plenty of stupid answers where people are just regurgitating incorrect information without knowing what they are actually talking about. this then makes the new people think that this incorrect information is actually correct so then they keep passing on this information.

unless you are on your p's and the restrictions are preventing you from getting a r33, i would go the 33. for drift, etc they are very easy to drive as the torque is much better than the 2.0L engines. the extra toque means you don't have to be changing gears as much if the revs start to drop. out of the other options, i personally would go the s13 over the s14 because i prefer the look of them. for drifting i would also rate the sr20 over the rb20 as the sr puts out more torque, especially if you happen to find one with the later model BB turbo on it. also in a straight line the s13 and s14 are quicker than the 32.

as above, won't work without some form of ecu alteration whethe it be full aftermarket ecu, piggy back or a nistune (my recommendation) you may possibly get the car to run (doubt it though) and if you were it would be an absolute cop to drive

double post

problem is that how fast a car feels and how fast it is actually going is 2 different things. my turbo 33 felt slower than my 180sx although it was a touch quicker. my v6 magna felt quicker than my 33, even though it was slower. also most people are comparing a manual skyline to an auto commodore. of course the auto commodore is going to be a touch slower. just look at the difference in diff ratios. that alone tells a massive story. as for turbo vn versus gts-t, i reakon the turbo vn would have it over the gts-t if you are talking stock for stock. if you are talking modified then you have to compare 2 cars with the same mods and i think the vn would still win.

i'm just using a basic garmin unit. plenty of websites have the speed camera locations, but they are generally only the fixed camera locations. some will give the locations frequented by the speed camera vans, but you don't know if they will be there or not, and also if they are in a new spot you won't know either. best bet is to stick to the speed limit as someone said.