mad082

i know, but stating that doesn't serve my purpose

i think it can also happen if it has overheated.

i have gotten down there and needed help getting back up before, LOL

is your car turbo? if yes, what sort of bov do you have and how old are your plugs? i had an issue with my 33 stalling when lifting off due to the plugs getting old and worn and even though i still had the stock bov it was going a bit rich on lift off and the plugs weren't able to cope. new plugs fixed it for me.

it is possible to do rather easily. not the best for flow and sort of defeats the purpose of going 3", but anyway i will explain what to do. simply take the car to an exhaust shop, tell them you want a 3" system and to keep the stock muffler. they will be able to do it for you. if they can't, hop back in your car and drive to another exhaust shop with people who actually have a brain. there are 2 ways in which they could do it. 1 is to simply have the new system join the old muffler through a flange setup and bolt the 3" flange to the 2.5" flange (they will match up, just not the best for flow), or they can remove the 2.5" flange and flare it out to 3" and put a new flange on. either way you will probably need a custom 3" system as there are very few aftermarket 3" systems that use the exact same piping route as the stock system and would match up with the stock muffler.

or maybe there is a bomb......... but seriously, most likely the injectors if it is a ticking sound. but be a bit more descriptive. is it like a soft ticking or like a rattle?

yeah, the only car we don't like is r32s LOL note: for those of you who don't get the joke, it is something between me and bozo here

i have a few of the older ones, but not sure which ones, LOL. i think i sold some of the ones i had though. i honestly don't remember

yes it has an ecu. to reset it just disconnect the battery and press the brake pedal then connect it back up (pressing the brake pedal, or turning the lights on or anything like that drains any remaining power from the system). the other way is to buy a consult cable and plug it into the consult port and into the laptop and use some consult software and reset it that way.

yeah i would also say battery. just because you charged it doesn't mean that it is actually holding charge. however to test it all you need is a multimeter. also if you have a second car with a battery that you could put in it simply to see if it is the battery or the starter motor is another easy way to check without having to outlay the money for a new battery.

but how many of them have 700hp? 1, maybe 2?

my experience with sr20's is only with the stock t25 bush bearing turbo, so i can only say from my experiences with 1 of the sr motors and not the whole lot. and my 33 was making 14psi by under 3000rpm (was about 2800rpm) on the stock turbo and stock ecu with the timing advanced a bit. i have driven other 33's that were the same as mine, but also driven others that were a bit sad and there was a noticable difference in performance.

i'm curious to see where you got this info from, as all the info i've seen on the rb25 (in the r33) has the torque being 294nm at 4800rpm, and the s14 engine is 274nm at 4800rpm (s13 is at only 4000rpm). so the rb25 makes 20nm more at the same rpm, and even if you take into account the lower revs of the s13 it would still be the same. but that is only max torque so doesn't give an indication to what it is at much lower rpm. having owned both a s13 and a r33, at low revs the r33 had much more torque than the s13. in fact the s13 felt gutless compared to my SSS pulsar (na sr20) under 3000rpm and it wasn't until you got close to 4000rpm when the s13 would actually start catching the pulsar. before that the pulsar would pull away. but in the r33 it was much better down low. making full boost by well under 3000rpm it was much better down low than the s13.

no i'm not saying it's ok, i'm just saying that it isn't a "OMG my engine is going to blow up and kill me and destroy the world" type of situation. hell, a large amount of pinging goes undetected as it isn't audible inside the cabin. and anyone with a stock ecu (or a nistune) shouldn't be overly concerned as the factory ecu will back off the timing if it hears it, providing the knock sensors are working properly.

and also, kms don't mean much for 2 reasons, 1: can easily swap over a dash, 2: comes down to driving. if they are highway kms then a car with 150,000kms could be in better shape engine wise than a car that has done 80,000 of city driving, because the odometer doesn't keep ticking over while a car is sitting in traffic idling. this is why you would never buy an ex highway patrol car. the kms might be low, but they spend a lot of hours sitting on the side of the road with the engine running (so the aircon is going).

yeah it could be the throttle cable or the butterfly that is getting stuck and causing the higher revs.

yes i would agree. well then your mates pulsar is crap (more than likely the tune), unless of course it is either the 1.6L or an old 1.8L, because a sr20 with nistune, poncams, and full exhaust should be putting out around 110kw at the wheels (which has little to do with the cams as they only give about 4kw up top but give 7 or 8kw to the low and middle), and able to run mid 14's with slicks. there is even 1 or 2 into the 13's that are still natro and just have headwork ontop of the cams, exhaust and nistune. there are a few into the 14's with street tyres and plenty running very low 15's still on stock ecu and cams on street tyres. and from my experience, with my pulsar putting out about 88kw at the wheels from just full exhaust and panel filter, it can adequately keep up with commodores or NA skylines. and if the skyline is an auto it will do more than keep up.

they aren't all straight road bikes. most are touring/enduro bikes, etc designed for both on road and offroad. basically softcore versions of dakar bikes. a good analogy would be if you compare a landrover discover, or some other bare bones offroad 4wd and a lexus, that is what those 650 bikes are like compared to a proper dirt bike. they are more suited to the road but can occasionally get their tyres dirty

the reason why smaller piping can give better results at low revs has nothing to do with back pressure, but a scavenging effect. this is the same reason why on a NA car if you go too big of an exhaust you can lose power. i have seen info on back to back tests on a v6 magna where they went from a 2.5" system to a 3" system, dynoing both and gained nothing up top but lost a bit of bottom end. it isn't back pressure that you need so much as a slight bit of turbulence (not exactly the best work to describe it but all i can think of) to keep things moving. it is a little bit like how if you fill a bottle of water up then turn it upside and tip it out, the way to get the water out the fastest (without squeezing it) is to make the water spin first.

on some NA cars it's very obvious though. i have had a pod on 3 6 cylinder cars (falcon, commodore and magna) and the falcon and magna it made a massive difference to the intake noise (sounded throaty) but the commodore it didn't do a thing.

you would have to have an engine on it's last legs to let go due to a few mins of driving with detonation. plenty of people have driven round for months or even years with the engine pinging it's arse off due to being too lean from blocked fuel filters or dodgy fuel pumps.

yeah beacuse 700hp in rwd is a sensible idea....... sure they may be the odd company putting that amount of power in a rwd car (such as zonda) but if they want it to have good performance on paper as well as not have lots of them wrapped around trees they will stick with the awd platform that they know and trust.

and at the end of the day, the type x 180sx still only has a redtop in it (although the rocker cover is black) as it has no VCT like the blacktop in the s14.

i doubt there would be any difference in the wheelbase between the toyota and subi version. that kind of defeats the purpose of doing it as a joint venture. will just be interesting to see if subaru make this their first wd car or if they go the awd route. you'd think that they'd stick with the rwd in order to not have it as a close rival to the wrx

i was actually meaning the opposite. a stock exhaust will give better economy on the highway and puttering around town because sports exhausts often result in a slight loss of low end torque in exchange for better top end. on bigger engines with lower rev ranges this isn't so noticable, but for smaller cars with higher rev limits i have found this to be more noticable. this is more to do with the headers than the actual exhaust though.