mad082

the shape and size of the muffler plays a big part on how it sounds. if you get 2 cannons roughly the same size then they will more than likely sound very similar. but if you get a cannon and compare it with a big oval muffler then the sound will be totally different as the oval mufflers have a lot more packing in them and generally make the car quieter and generally give a less raspy sound. a perfect example is some of the lancers etc you see getting around. they have cannons on them and often sound like a rotary once they floor it. yet if you see one with an oval muffler on the rear they just sound a bit deeper and louder than normal and don't usually sound like arse. as for cannons being cannons, as i said to start with, size comes into it as a bigger bodied cannon will be quieter than a smaller bodied cannon with the same pipe though the centre. this is because they have more packing in them to soak up the sound. also better quality cannons will generally be quieter as well for the same size body simply because they put more packing in them and better quality packing.

but you still race on the same track with same cars yeah? so it would only be your ranking that is out

how could it not count because you are canadian? LOL

any 650 you can ride is going to be a dirt bike not a road bike. and while they do get up and go, they aren't uber fast (like a road bike) and you won't gain that much by unrestricting them.

well march is the release date for the japanese version of gt5, the rest of the world probably won't get it until june or july going by all info around.

but still, even if you can get away with it, you are making the car less powerful than the NA version by quite a bit. as someone posted in a thread a while back, their mate did it then put the car on the dyno and made something like 65kw. performance wise that's like getting a lancer and driving round with 200kg in the boot.

the noise you are hearing may be normal. you will someimtes hear some bubbling, etc when you pull up (my mothers car does it, as does my car - which runs are 82 degees). if you are really worried about it, get yourself an aftermarket temp gauge that way you can see exactly what temp the engine is getting to.

i'd be getting your radiator professionally cleaned. i'm guessing that when you said that you flushed the radiator you just jammed a hose it it, or used some of that radiator flush that you buy for a few dollars at auto stores? either way, both of those methods are about as useful at actually cleaning out the radiator as trying to degrease an engine with a spray bottle filled with only water.

i think the NA section needs to have it's name changed to the "removing a turbo to run as NA is a bad idea, and all other NA car talk"

if it is the new camaro, they are based off the commodore platform. the suspension, etc is the same (although it may not be interchangable it is based off the same platform) however they have a different wheelbase, etc. basically you could liken it to being nearly as close to a commodore as the monaro was.

altering the cam timing shouldn't have any effect on fuel mixture as all it is doing is determining then the cams are opening the valves (if you are talking about adjusting the actual cams). if you are talking about adjusting the ignition timing via the CAS (crank angle sensor) then that isn't adjusting the cams, just when the spark plugs make the fuel go bang, but again shouldn't really alter the fuel mixtures unless you are getting detonation and the ecu is backing off the timing and richening up the mixtures a bit. maybe your power loss is due to the hot weather as that can affect it quite a bit if you get 1 dyno run done on a cold day and the next done on a stinking hot day.

i'm pretty sure the speed camera locations for my GPS that i downloaded the other day had that one in it already

as i said earlier in the thread, if you are only using it as a daily, there is no point putting expensive oil in as it's just a waste. and at the end of the day, are you still going to own the car in 10 years time? if yes then you could use full synthetic oil, but if you are only going to keep it while you are on your p's, then using something like redline is pointless. sure if you go to track days, etc then use the better oil, but for every day driving, the difference in wear, etc is minimal. and often people running high grade oils are running the sort of viscosity that is good for performance driving but not that great for general driving so are probably doing more harm than good.

mid to low 15's is that all? my old v6 magna with just a cat back exhaust ran high 14's and it's a fwd family car, LOL and the only reason a 2.5L skyline can keep up with a commodore or a falcon is because of the gear ratios. give them the same gear ratios and the commodore and falcons would kick the arse of a NA skyline and probably even give a mild turbo skyline a run for it's money.

2.7V is very high for not having the engine running. i think they should be around 1.5V at idle if i remember correctly and 0v if the engine isn't running. it could be a faulty AFM or a wiring issue (such as faulty earth)

i'm guessing that this only started after the accident and not before hand? if so, i'd be getting the radiator professionally cleaned first. that is more than likely going to be the problem as it was the only thing replaced. however i would also be checking the clutch fan as that may also have been damaged in the crash. but since the lower hose is cold i'd be guessing it's the core being blocked, which normal radiator flushing does vey little to fix.

which is actually a commodore with a different body on it

or if a pet shop is closer than bunnings, go there, LOL

but how many kms has the average 32 done compared to the average vn, and what sort of road condition have they been diven on. the average australian road would be much worse than the average japanese road, plus the fact that the commodores and falcons cost less to buy in the first place.

the other thing to remember is that a majority of vn's etc have usually done well over 300,000kms by now and for the last 150,000kms probably haven't had anywhere near the amount of servicing they actually require. that is why they all seem to noisey, etc. most of them are probably still running stock/factory fitted suspension, etc, so you can't expect them to still be like new.

IAC = idle air control. but if it is starting without the AFM plugged in that the AFM may be the issue. also how long do you let the car crank for each time?

i think he actually means on the strut towers, not actually the underside of the bonnet

does the cylinder bit move as if it is being pushed out by a spring inside? if yes then i wouldn't worry about it. if no, then i'd get a spring off a pen or something like that to put around it to make it contact better

it doesn't always show the problem vey well though. i've done the boiling water test before and it seemed fine, but once i put in the new thermostat it solved the issue it depends on how low the temp goes. if the temp only goes to normal when driving faster then it's likely to be the fan. the 2 cars i've had with thermostat issues would get hot when sitting in traffic, but when on the highway would drop down to about 1/4 temp

if possible, get a compressor with an airgun, or even a can of compressed air and remove the coil pack cover and blow all the water out of there. this is more than likely causing the issues. also, next time, cover the pod with a plastic bag anytime you are putting water, degreaser or any other liquid around the engine bay.