mad082

if you have a lip on the rotor then it means they are worn. yes you could get them machined to get rid of the lip but that will remove some of the meat of the rotor thus shortening the life even more. obviously you can also have only used up 10% of your pads and still need new rotors. if new pads are installed with old rotors the rotors are going to keep on wearing. they won't just stop for a while until the pads catch up. and when replacing rotors it is best to put new pads on (or at least reface the pads so they are smooth). also if the pads or only cheap ones then they can be hard and wear the rotors fast. i know someone who had a set of pads last longer than the rotors.

well then in that case there would be a hell of a lot of gts-t's owned by people on here that you wouldn't class as a gts-t then?

10m is more than enough room to pull a fat skid though, LOL. once you have warmed it up of course

if you do have a spare ecu you could try then i would. there is a small chance you have damaged something in the ecu

that would probably because the coolant has been sitting in the block getting hotter (from lack of flow) than it would normally and once you actually start the car the water pump starts pumping the coolant out you will see a spike in the temp until it normalises again. you could kind of think of it like walking on hot concrete with no shoes on. while you keep walking it is fine but then if you stop for a bit you will find that the concrete is much hotter.

you may have cooked a wire somewhere in the wiring and it's shorting out when you replace the fuse and give it power again. i would try unplugging the fuel pump and then replacing the fuse and trying it then just to see what happens.

often the council dump will have a tank you can put the oil in (i know the one here does). another option for oil i have done in the past is tip it on timber fence posts in the yard. stops them rotting.

pulling the fuse will allow the engine to crank over and pump oil around the engine without it actually firing up. another way is to simply unplug the injector harness. as for the fuel, it will have dropped it's octane rating a bit from sitting there, so i would fill up the tank with fresh fuel and probably even put some octane booster in. i'd still take it easy for the first tank of fuel and don't go boosting everywhere.

i smell spam

ahahaha, this thread is gold. gotta love threads like this. ok here's a few facts about the falcon (as i saw a falcon was mentioned above). my sister in law's ex had a ba xr6t (the 240kw ATC ones). put it on the dyno stock as a rock and it made 185kw. got a flash tune for it (12psi and a generic tune, wasn't tuned specifically for his car, so still plenty of power to be made. no other mods other than the ecu) and it made 223kw. now i have been in this thing with the boost only at 9psi and it hauls. yes they are a heavy car but the torque is astounding. it would've beaten my 200kw r33. as for the statement about how it is hard to get a commodore to run 12's, well actually it isn't. when i was at the drags a while back i went up against a mild vy hsv and it ran a low 12. also i know of a guy in town with a twin turbo vn 5.0L running stock internals making around 260kw at the wheels. and most of the new 6.0L commodores will get into the 12's with just an exhaust system. also someone said that the v8 would be better off the line because of more toqrue. that's far from the truth. more torque = more wheelspin. yes once the v8 is up and moving it will go better, but by that time the smaller engine will be up and moving as well so there is little difference.

counterfeit is different to replica in the case of most cars. if something is made using all genuine parts (as a lot of replica cars are) then they aren't counterfeit as counterfeit is when you use fake parts (or reproduction parts) that look like the real parts. a lot of replicas will be using genuine parts from original cars. but then you will get some genuine cars that will have parts in them that are imitation/reproduction parts, so which is more genuine?

something seems a bit suss about this. you'd think that putting it into neutral would work. i'm guessing he didn't try pushing the brakes when/if he put it into neutral.

commodore or falcons will fill most of the market of cars under $2500. but otherwise n13 pulsar (go for a 1.8L)

if the fuel filter is very dirty then it may be restricting the flow and causing it to lean out and ping. or the injectors (if it has injectors) may be dirty. if it is a carby engine then that may have an issue. you may also have a fuel pump issue. and don't you use hotter spark plugs with LPG? if so the timing might be too advanced for the fuel. you have to remember that LPG generally has an octane rating of well over 100, so even using 98 octane would be like using 91 octane fuel in a turbo car. also if you don't put fuel in very often it could be going stale in the tank. higher octane fuels lose their octane rating faster than lower octane fuels. so even though you put fresh fuel in recently, if the old fuel had been in there a while then it could've gone stale and you would still result in an overall octane rating of less than 98.

try and borrow (or buy) a consult cable. this way you can plug a laptop into the car and see if there are any error codes and check the AFM voltage at the ecu. as for o2 sensor, it won't make any difference to how it runs. i ran my car for a few months without it being plugged in.

belts are cheap and easy to do. regas would cost about $100 depending on where you are.

you can use regular unleaded on a turbo car if you want to rebuild it every few months and make less power than running it on premium. you have to run it on premium. and 98 octane is what you ideally need to run it on. you could get away with 95 octane but i wouldn't do it unless you retard the timing to prevent detonation, which results in less power.

ash while you are at it, dig up some of andru's old threads about crashing his car while racing a commodore, although he wasn't actually racing, the commodore just took off fast so he took off fast too to try to pull ahead, and then the guy in the commodore got cut and apparently rammed him off the road and then a while later he tried to sell the car for a stupid amount of money and people started posting links to all his crash threads. good times had by all

i won't be getting an x-box 360. if i don't get a ps3 and gt5 i simply won't get anything

<insert usual joke here>

what pisses me off about the whole GT5 thing is that instead of getting their arse into gear and getting the game done they keep arsing about doing other things. how much extra time did making prologue add onto the final release date? and the same goes for the PSP? why not put all the time and effort into making the main game for the main console and then worry about the other shit later on. and the fact that they come out with bullshit statements like when they said it was ready to be released any day now. then to come out and say that they are only 65% finished. well if it has taken them 5 years to get to 65% finished then we won't see it until 2012. yes i agree that it is good that they want the game 100% ready when it is released so that they don't have to release a path 2 days after it's release as this would just lower the reputation of the game, especially after such a long lead out time. but the longer they take the more damage they are doing to their reputation and the higher the quality is going to have to be to justify the amount of time it took. also the more sales they are losing by taking longer. if when the game is finally released it isn't miles ahead of anything else i think it will do a lot of damage to their reputation as people won't bother waiting stupidly long periods of time for any more of their games. i also think that they are putting too much time into the wank factor of the game, the visible side of things. i don't really give a shit how good a leaf looks sitting on the side of the road when you go past it at 200kmh. it is only the serious computer nerds who rate a game more off how it looks and sounds than how it plays that are going to care. yes it would be good to still have it look great, but there is a limit to how good you need to make it before you start going over the top. i'm basically over it. if i still give a fuck when the game comes out i will buy it, but until such time i don't care anymore. i'm sick of being dicked about with lies by these guys. had the originally said "it will be out in early 2010" and never changed their view on that then that would've been fine, but since they kept yanking our chains with the above mentioned statements about being ready to release it at any moment, etc, then i don't care anymore.

i thought SR stood for Shits Rockers. certainly did for my mates sr, LOL

i know the guy that bought that car (the car now resides in gympie). when he first got it i think he tried to pass it off as the original time attack car to a few people, even increasing the price that he paid for it (going off what i heard from people he was talking to about it, but they also may have misunderstood him). although once i pointed out to a few key people that it was the replica (and a few others knew what it was to start with, having seen it in magazines since it still had the same plates) he seemed changed his tune. however he can still call it a mines car as the engine, etc was all built by mines. as for the XY, the only difference between a lot of the replicas and the genuine ones are the body number. some of the replicas will have more genuine parts than some genuine ones that haven't been kept in 100% original condition because they have made sure that every part is original. at the end of the day, even if someone tries to sell a fake for a lot of money, if the numbers don't match they are going to have a hard time selling it. as for GTR's etc, there are plenty of jap cars that have had the clock wound back before being imported. this probably happens much more than we care to acknowledge. as to what someone above said about the manufacturers using the same car but badging them differently (such as the ford laser and mazda 323) the cars have the same body but will often be different spec, have different interior trims, etc so it makes them a bit harder to pass off as the other model than just sticking a badge on it. but that doesn't stop people doing it. within the skyline range there is 1 main error made by a lot of people selling cars, even dealers. that is the type m/m spec name. the amount of M spec r32 and r33 gtst's that you see is amazing, yet the M spec is a r34 gtr model. they should be calling them type M. sure this isn't as bad as an incorrect badge, etc, but it is still incorrect and it is an ever growing problem.

i'd be going the aussie built heap because a 10k r34 is likely to be nasty, where as you will find a clean vx for well under 10 leaving money for other things.

good, it was supposed to be, but it highlights how when mods are done to a type of car that is similar to what you drive it is ok, but when the same mods are done to a different type of car it suddenly becomes stupid. you either have fitting stupid body kits to any car as being stupid, or not stupid. you might think a NA skyline with a GTR body kit and big stupid drift wing looks good and think that a lancer with an evo body kit looks like crap, but there might be someone who thinks the opposite, that the skyline looks stupid and the lancer looks good. i personally think that they both look stupid. but then i think that most big bodykits are stupid on pretty much any car