mad082

actually that reminded me. a mate of mine had a s13 that had a shagged pump and whenever you turned the wheel the car shook. have also seen it happen in a car with low power steering fluid and went away when topped up, but again, it was only when you turned the steering, not when just driving.

you'd think that if it was a wheel bearing it would get worse with speed, and it would also get worse when turning left (more weight on the right hand side when turning left). it may possibly be an enginge mount, or the car has a missfire at light load. if you can make it do it on command, next time you are slowing down and it is doing it, push the clutch in. if it goes away then it is engine mount or a missfire. if it is still there then you may be right about the wheel bearing or it may be a uni joint of even a CV joint/shaft i had a magna once with a shagged main engine mount but my vibration problem was the reverse of yours. at about 90kmh if you put your foot down it would shake the shit out of the car. even cruising at 100kmh was enough load on the engine for a small vibration but if you put your foot down just a fraction, like to go up a hill it would shake like hell. new engine mount fixed it, and the old mount was totally shagged.

ok, first of all, i'm guessing that the rubbing noise in the clutch is probably the thrust bearing. nothing overly serious or expensive, but worth replacing when you can. as for the miss, i'm not overly familiar with the rb30 (assuming yours has a rb30), but they run a distributor ignition don't they? it may possibly be a short in the leads, dizzy etc.

ok, few things to start of with, does letting the fuel pump prime before turning it over make any difference? how old are the plugs and what heat range? and have you pulled them out to see if they are fouled at all? tried cleaning the AFM? tried cleaning the IAC, AAC and cold start valve?

ahahaha, love the p76

well start off with doing the exhaust. yes it's power related but won't do much if you don't increase the boost level. if it still has the stock suspension (not lowered) then you could do a set of coilovers. that will inprove the handling. depending on how good the roads are around you will determine what type is the best to get. if you don't like a rough ride or the roads are a bit dodgy where you are, go a softer set such as tein super street. some of the drifting coilovers are too stiff for some roads. i put a set in my 180 and round a rough corner, going slower than normal i was bouncing onto the wrong side of the road. pulled them out 2 days later and just bought a set of shocks and lowered springs. also you could do wheels and tyres if it still has the stock wheels. again, the size you should go depends on the roads where you are. if the roads are shitty then i would stick to 17's. and if the roads are good then you could go 18's. but that is personal preference.

ahahaha, i was going to leave that one alone. but judging by the rest of his spelling i think you might be right about the shrooms, lol

as i have said in pretty much every thread on this topic, N15 SSS. fast (enough), reliable, handles well, runs cheap. and will also cost you well under 15k for a tidy one. or what doozooby said above, but good luck finding one for 15k, LOL

they won't use the SR20 in it. i think it would take too much work to make it comply with current emissions standards. i'd guess that they will make a beefier, rwd version of the motor in the tiida, since it is their current 1.8L engine that they are using, and nissan has a history of using the same motor in many different cars. the SR20 was a prime example

maybe your timing belt has jumped a tooth

well how else am i supposed to tape stuff until i get a ps3 and playtv? i'm not enough of a nerd to have a media centre, and i honestly don't watch that much tv. but i do have a SNES and sega megadrive, plus a N64, xbox and ps2. most of the consoles i only have about 5 games for except for the ps2, which i have about 20

then get a booster. although i used to have my aerial go into the vcr, then out of the vcr into the set top box, then out of the set top box to the tv with both the vcr and set top box hooked into the tv via rca leads. now i have it the set top box gets the signal first and vcr second and the vcr also gets the rca leads from the set top box so i can tape digiat channels.

i see what blind_elk said above and i agree with him, however i'm not talking about the gearbox oil. the clutch isn't a cable clutch in the r33 skylines it is a hydraulic clutch line, so it is full of fluid which has nothing to do with the oil in the gearbox. the clutch plate itself has no oil around it, otherwise it would slip and you would go nowhere. the oil in the gearbox has no bearing on the clutch itself. the only way that it could cause any slipping is if it was stupidly thick when it was hot and was basically like tar and making the cogs stick together more than what the clutch was able to turn, or it was so thin that the cogs get as hot as hell that they expand and bind up, however both of these would cause the car to slow down dramatically when you lift off or push the clutch in. also this would have no effect on the weight of the pedal. my money is on there being an issue with the clutch line rather than anything in the gearbox

if it is anything like the gts-t, it will be screwed into the upper radiator hose housing where it meets the engine (thermostat housing). there should be 2 of them, one for the ecu and 1 for the dash. usually there is 1 with 1 wire and 1 with 2. the 2 wire 1 is for the ecu. but if you unplug 1 with the key turned on and then check the dash, you will know if it is the right one or not. i think you will find that the plug at the bottom of the radiator is an over temp sensor and not the actual water temp sensor. i just looked at a pic of a gtr engine and it has the plugs on the thermostat housing like the gts-t does

why not just get a double adapter?

having the bonnet up a bit higher at the back isn't quite as stupid as it sounds. it lets air flow much more freely through the engine bay. this doesn't help cool the engine because of ait flowing over it, but it does allow air to flow more freely through the radiator. as for it coming off in a crash and injuring someone, there is just as much chance of one in a stock location doing the same thing as one that is lifted up a touch as they are still only held on by the same mounts. as for making sure the car runs at the proper temp, if you are at all concerned, make sure you have an aftermarket water temp gauge so you can see exactly what the temp is (unless the GTR already has one that shows the temp in either celcius or farenheit). that is the first thing. if it appears to run a bit hotter then start with the simple things like getting the radiator prefessionally cleaned. this doesn't mean getting a flush done on it, it means having the end tanks removed and the core cleaned out as it is supprising how much crap can build up in them and no amount of flushing will get it out. you can go and replace all the other parts like the thermostat and water pump, etc, but if the radiator isn't able to do its job properly then you will still have cooling issues.

it's not coming from the rocker cover gaskets? have a look further up the engine block and see if there is oil up there. mine had a similar problem and it was simply the leaking rocker cover gaskets and because i parked on a steep driveway the oil was coming out and running down the back of the engine.

could it be possible that the fluid in the clutch line is suffering from the heat and expanding and disengaging the clutch causing the slip?

i was going to say that but could be bothered, lol

+1 for asking what boost you are running. i'm guessing you still have the stock ecu and your boost is up around 13psi, yes? if so, you are hitting the ecu boost protection. basically when the AFM sees too much airflow for a given point in the load/rpm scale it backs off

if it is simply the tie rod or steering arm being damaged just buy a new one, install it then take it to get a wheel alignment (or get it installed by the place doing the wheel alignment. i think you would be best of taking to a steering place and letting them do it so that they can check it all over and make sure nothing else is damaged

other way round. advancing the timing will give you better acceleration usually and retarding the timing will poor acceleration. if you are a 100% sure that all the timing marks were lined up when installing the timing belt then i would but this as being the likely culprit.

love where he uses a little forklift to flip it back over

shouldn't have a bad effect on the carpet other than making it smell like coolant. should affect anything else though. in the short term you can bypass the heater core until you get a chance to replace the heater core to prevent any further loss of coolant. to do this you need to disconnect the heater hoses that run from the engine to the heater core. generally you disconnect them where they meet ther firewall.

from memory you need small hands to get to it as it's a bit of a tight squeeze. but to get the actual bulb out you turn the holder it sits in. i'm pretty sure the holder has the wires attached to it. it is all done from inside the engine bay. you should just have to twist the holder that the wires go into about 90 degrees and the holder, and therefore bulb, should pop out.