mad082

yeah for an air con issue i would go straight to an air con place. air con units are all generally similar between different models of cars (the general basics are the same) so they should be able to help you out for that.

it could be a sign of overheating, but it could also be a sign of it having been resprayed or just an oil or something like that sitting on it for a while and lifting the paint.

he is running stock boost. he said it in an earlier post.

that is because of 2 reasons. 1: you make more power the higher the revs, and 2: the VCT shuts off at that sort of rev range and there is often a flat spot just before it does.

oh there have been plenty of other great cockups. there was the guy who "ported and polished" his head by hooking the intake up to a bag of sand and then started the car. then there was the guy that came up with DEI, direct exhaust injection where the headers just fed back into the intake so it would be pressurised, just ignoring the fact that you need oxygen to make the fuel burn, and the oxygen gets burnt up with the fuel. i'm sure there have been others as well that i can't think of right now.

get a bmx then, LOL

ahahahaha, or hook it up to be powered by their own feeling of self worth, like the guy on the simpsons, LOL

ahahaha, well played

if it is for general servicing i would just use any decent mechanic. changing the oil, etc is no different to any other car, so find a well trusted mechanic and use them. if it was more for performance tuning or diagnosing a specific problem i would say go to a good workshop that knows their stuff about skylines, but for general servicing you don't have to be as picky.

swoit. joyce mayne is having a 20% off sale tomoro, might have to go for a drive and see if they have them in stock yet.

what ecu are you using? what afm? how did you buy the engine? reason i ask is that there is a posibilty that something isn't stock in the engine, such as injectors, which hasn't been taken into account. also check the TPS voltage. if the tps is stuffed it will be sending a voltage to make the ecu think the trottle is open and therefor dumping in heaps more fuel than it needs to

yeah it does. it's all good to use the principle of having something in the wheels to collect kinetic energy as you drive, but that adds resistance, so you end up using more power to drive anywhere. it is kind of a 2 steps foward 1 step back type os scenario. that is the reason why the prius only recharges when you lift off or brake, so you aren't using power to make power. something they could look at doing though is having air vents with small wind turbines in them to allow recharging while moving. but then it is a case of how much would it actually do? and is the extra weight of the setup going to negate any positive gain?

america got to be a world leader how?

ahahaha

pull out your spark plugs again and inspect them. that will give you an indication of whether it is a fuel issue. if they are black then it isn't a fuel issue but a spark issue. if they are a light colour then it is a fuel issue. if possible get someone to drive behind you and make it play up. if they see unburnt fuel coming out the exhaust when it missfires then you know it's a spark issue.

ahahaha, if they were ian thorpe types though they would have clothing about 2 sizes too small, LOL

in the video the car has individual throttle bodies, with trumpet style inlet runners and no AFM. basically it's the same setup as most NA race cars use, although they normally have them in a big air box with a CAI feed. you can get little pod filters to sit over the top of them. it still runs injectors though as you can see them in the video.

as above, the part number of the plugs tells the heat range. however not all spark plug companies work off the same numbering system. NGK go a higher number for a lower temp, but i'm pretty sure some others go a higher number = hotter plug. if your car only has mild mods and is running lower boost then you would be better off with a lower number (higher temp) plug, as the colder plugs are more prone to fouling. i would still be looking at the battery though, as the battery may be on it's way out and not producing enough amps to crank the starter motor quite fast enough while also supplying power to everything else at the same time. you could also try just resetting the ecu in the mean time to see if that helps. also something i have heard on other forums is that sometimes the earth wire for the afm can need a better ground attached to it to help it run a bit smoother. this is something that is talked about a bit on the pulsar forums. i know that for some of them it gave a smoother idle. might also be worth a shot. try and locate a wiring diagram to find out which wire is the earth and then strip the wire a bit close to the plug and attach a second wire and earth this somewhere (either to the engine block or to a bolt in the engine bay close to the afm) and see if it helps at all.

yes those were the coils. they are also different ones for series 1 and series 2 r33's. if you have a series 1, something else you could try before new coils is a new ignitor pack. it is a square thing at the back of the cover. series 2 have the ignitor built into the coils, where as series 1 have an external ignitor. this can play up a bit as they are getting a bit older now. if yours is a series 1 with the external ignitor, try to borrow a mates ignitor (if you have a mate with a s1 r33 that is)

there is a fuse box in the engine bay (drivers side near the strut tower) that has all the relays, etc in it. my guess is that one of them is gone. if you do find one blown, then don't just buy one to replace it, but buy one as a spare, because there is a small chance it will do it again if there is a short in the system, in which case you would need to find the short before installing the spare one.

the solar panels used in that farm probably cost a bullshit amount of money though. the biggest issue with pure electric cars is the fact that you can only get relatively short distances out of it per charge. generally it is around 200-300kms. now that may be ok for city driving, but if i wanted to drive to brisbane i wouldn't make it home, or if i wanted to drive to the gold coast i'd barely make it there. yes solar panels would help, but not if i'm driving at night. now if they could incorperate a small petrol powered generator into an electric car, something like a little 4hp or the likes, it would only cost a dollar or 2 an hour to run, regaurdless of what sort of driving you are doing

the biggest problem with the hybrids is the weight. that is why the new ford fiesta 1.6L diesel is more fuel efficient that the prius. it is also why it will outperform it speed wise too.

was the 'tick' like the sound of flicking a switch? it may have been a relay or fuse blowing. i'd go through the fuse box and check them all.

i'm guessing it's your coils then. they are a bit more expensive.

the aluminium cleaner works well. you buy it from supercheap and spray it on, let it soak then wash it off. not good for painted surfaces or rubber though. you would want to have the parts off the car. i use it on my tinny and it makes a big difference.