mad082

would be best to ring a few scrap metal places in your area and ask them what they will give you for it. you may find the prices differ a little bit between places.

or if you know someone with a bit of land, ask them if you can take a paddock basher out there and have a play around. you could pick up a junker for probably $300 at most.

the qld vcheck will only give the odometer reading from the last time the car was registered (rego put into the current owners name. so if you buy a car that the one owner has had from new it might say that the car has only done 50km (basically pre-delivery driving), even though the odometer shows 150,000kms. this also means that the car could have actually done 300,000kms and had the clock wound back. i also highly doubt it would be for nsw cars. you also have to have a qld drivers licence to do it, although some 3rd party vcheck systems allow you to do it without a qld licence, but still only for qld vehicles it appears. in nsw don't you have to get a rwc done every few years, which means the kms are much more up to date. and i thought the southern states had a way to check the kms of a car with the transport department through a check of some sort (like our vcheck). maybe it is vic that has it.

maybe it's the o2 sensor

oh for f**ks sake, can't the mods do something about the amount of spam the site is getting? this is getting ridiculous. no other forum i am on gets this much spam. is it something to do with the servers we are hosted on?

don't use degrease on the afm. use electrical contact cleaner. degrease will still leave an oily residue

as i said, i'm in a small town. but if you are in brissy it might be worth the drive up. only cost you about $40 in fuel. the place i got it done was called coola auto air. actually last time i was there there was a r33 gtr having the conversion done. the guy is an older guy, but owns about 3 or 4 toyota imports (chasers or celciors, 1 of the 2) and i think 1 has a supercharged 1uzfe in it

this thread needs more dragons

the difference between the full and low marks on a dipstick is about 1L. and as long as there is oil on the dipstick between those marks then you are still in the safe zone, unless you had been giving the car a bit of a hard time in the mean time. if you hadn't then that isn't the cause. as for genuine vs non-genuine filters, not much in it really. ryco are one of the better filters on the market. i would rate them up there with genuine as i have a feeling that they make some of the genuine filters for cars, and i have a feeling that in the user manual for the pulsar it states a ryco part number for the oil filter. so they are pretty much an industry standard. as for only letting skyline specialists work on your car, that just made me laugh. maybe if it was an engine rebuild, but for an oil change? hell, unqualified people do it themselves, some of who have never been shown how to do it and only read how on the internet. itsn't that hard. and what's to say that once you leave the workshop they don't just have their apprentice work on the car? look at all the complaints people have about tuning shops. i think you will find that every performance shop will have someone with a horror story about the work done (some more than others), so at the end of the day you find someone with a bit of intelligence that might not know everything about the car but is able to put 2 and 2 together and get 4 on the first try. back on topic, i don't think the knock has anything to do with the oil filter (unless it wasn't sealing properly and had dumped most of the oil, which it hasn't since the dipstick is still showing an oil level), and i don't think the quality of oil used is an issue either. the weight may have played a small part though. i think that there was possibly an underlying issue and putting new oil in has just made it much more noticable. were you using the same weight oil previously, or is this the first time you have changed the oil. if this is the first time then (or at least the first time with that weight oil) i would say that there is a good chance that the previous oil was hiding an underlying issue and the new oil has brought it to light. or it could just be a plain old coincidence that it happened shortly after an oil change and has absolutely nothing to do with the oil or filter being changed and it just started making the noise because that's when whatever is causing it finally failed.

that's all you ever say to me dan.

i wouldn't really class the r32 as being much lighter than a 33 as there is only about 40kg in it. and as for smaller, well there is only 3.5cm difference in width between a 32 coupe and a 33 coupe, and 11cm in length. and a s14 is actually 1cm wider than a 33. although they are lighter than both a 32 and 33. also, when did you get your p's, because i was just looking at the vicroads website and if you got your p's after 1st july 2007 then you can rule out the s14 (unless you go a non-turbo) and just get a r32 4 door (r32 coupe also ruled out) as you can't drive a turbo vehicle with only 2 doors. this is what i was reading:

i too think you are fighting a losing battle here. you can get all technical about it and argue over the smallest little detail in the hope of getting off from paying the fine, but i think you will find that most judges will just think you are being a prick, see the light as being a fog light and make you pay the fine anyway. basically the term "fog light" is a generic term for what you are calling a "low visability tail light". either way you were using a light designed for low visability conditions in clear conditions. remeber that the judge is allowed to use their discression in the ruling, and if i was the judge i would make you pay the fine. it's like trying to argue out of getting booked for having a blow off valve by saying that it isn't a bov, it's a compressor bypass valve.

before you go changing things like the o2 sensor to get better economy, check how long the car takes to come up to temp from a cold start, as well as how she is driving. the o2 sensor only works on light throttle so if she is giving it the beans everywhere then a new o2 sensor won't help at all. the car should come up to temp within about 2 or 3km of driving. if it is taking much longer then i would look at getting a new thermostat. go a genuine nissan one for that. if she is driving sedately and the car comes up to temp quickly then look at a new o2 sensor. you can check the o2 sensor with a multi-meter to see if it is working or not. i would also change the fuel filter just for piece of mind. as for spark plugs, BCPR6ES11 are the way to go. if you get any misfiring then gap them down to 0.8mm. i wouldn't bother with wasting the extra money on platinums or iridiums. they don't last that much longer but are about 5 times the price. you certainly don't get 5 times the life out of them. for the powersteering, any powersteering fluid should do the job.

as have been said, lots of places will do it, and provided it is as simple as putting new gas in it should only take an hour or less and should only cost $100. i've had it done for less, but i'm in a small town. they will generally vaccum out any old gas before refilling the gas. not sure the cost if it needs the conversion done.

aussie dollare was actually a few cents higher a few years back (about 15 months ago actually) when it was up around 96 or 97 cents US. also the value of the dollar isn't the only thing to influence the cost of items. chinese manufacturing costs are still rising at a pretty high rate compare to most countries. some of my suppliers costs have gone up by as much as 40 or 50%, and on the odd occasion they have been a 100% increase.

just so you know, if your website mentions RB standing for "race bred" i'm going to find the server it is located on and set it on fire.

i hope you are sitting down mike. there is a PM on the way and you won't want to be standing up when you see the price of it.

you generally enter in teams and will do 1 or 2 laps and then have a team mate do a lap, etc. i know a few guys who do 24 hour races.

it's a pretty old video, but yeah, that guy did a great job.

yeah this seems to be a factory option on r33's. mine had it as does pretty much every r33 i have seen, LOL.

by the video it sounds like the death rattle. this is usually followed by an electrical problem (caused by a conrod coming out of the side of the block and hitting something, LOL).

the plugs you put in are a much hotter plug. depending on your mods they may be too hot and the 7's may have been too cold, and that's why they were fouling. get yourself some copper BCPR6ES11 plugs. they will be a touch colder to help with detonation but not too cold that they will fould up like the iridiums you took out. and they are still a 1.1mm gap, since you have new coils.

there is a video on youtube of the car being towed from the water, as well as it hitting it (your video has been removed sneakey pete so can't see which one it was) but here it is hitting the water http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9uuPf8QII9w...feature=related and here it is being towed out of the water

if you want heart rate then the polar computers are the way to go but they are bloody expensive. cheaper option would be a more basic unit and a heart rate monitor. if you are wanting heart rate then you are obviously interested in fitness, so you would want to go a computer with cadence as well as speed as your cadence will play a bigger part to achieving your heartrate goals than speed. something like the cateye strada cadence would be my suggestion. it's what i use with my bike on the mag trainer. it is a wired computer but they also do a wireless version called the strada double wireless. i'm not a huge fan of wireless though. about the only only wireless computer i've had a good experience with is a pro computer, the same as what jase uses. i think from memory the strada cadence sells for about $90RRP, but it's been about 6 months since i saw the price, and the prices have changed (gone both up and down) since then.

i had a s13 and have been in a 32. i would go the s14 for sure. just get rid of the stock turbo and find a BB unit of a JDM s15 (i'm pretty sure they are a bigger turbo) and wind the boost up to 15psi and you will be laughing. other suggestion i would make is a r33. they are cheaper than r32's and go much better. buttloads more torque, more power everywhere actually. and better as a daily driver than the 32 due to smoother power. performance wise a 33 with a few mods (such as boost at 12psi, and the usual mods such as exhaust and cooler) and a silvia at 15psi (with similar mods to the 33) will be pretty close, but both will be quicker than a 32 with the same mods. even with the stock turbo @ 15psi the s14 will still beat the r32