mad082

the stock location was between the afm and turbo. does your new intake pipe have a spot for it? if not you will have to get one made on it.

oh and meant to post this up too

i agree with everyone who says that the bike will be slower. the only reason why the cops might have these is simply to catch other bikes. or possibly on a highway pursuit. but round the narrow streets the bikes would get left for dead. while the busa might have accelleration from hell, it's handling (compared to other sports bikes) will send you there pretty quickly. i've seen a police chase in town where a v6 commodore cop car was right up the arse of the bike it was chasing, until they got onto a straight section of road where the bike was able to pull away a bit. i was coming up to an intersection when the bike went flying past with the cop car right behind it. they had just come up a windy section of road

so my watch would also be a computer then.....

nistune is an ecu system that uses the stock ecu with the addition of a different board. this is pretty much the cheapest option as far as full replacement ecu's go and in my opinion for mild setups is the best option as it gives the drivability of a stock ecu but has been tuned to give you maximum performance, and if the police ever decide to look at the ecu to make sure it hasn't been changed, they won't be able to tell the difference. as for cams, wait until you get the engine before you start sussing out what ones you need.

yeah but it's easier if she just posts them again, along with some fresh ones of her with her kit off..........

ahahaha, i love where this thread has gone. i also love how while modena is saying how poor people think that better off people are rich and greedy, but at the same time he is showing the trait that most better off people have, that they are somehow superior to people who aren't as rich as them. however it seems to be the mildly rich and the people from rich families (born with a silver spoon in their mouth so to speak) who are the worst at this. they spend their days living to show off just how good they are. everything is about their image. my father is a prime example of this. however his father was the oposite and i more take after him. he was rather well off and when he gave up driving he was still driving a 30 year old ford fairlane, and lived out his days in the house they had build back in the 60's that still used a wood fire stove to heat up the hot water. now this is not directed at the owner of the GT2, as all i have seen from him is on topic posting. now as probably the most financially worse off person on this forum (thanks to a few choices that didn't work out as expected), i wouldn't trade the experiences i have had for an easy life, because in this economic climate where things can change at the drop of a hat, i have seen that the bigger they arem the harder they fall and the worse they handle it. and i know that, thanks to what i have been dealt in life, i could probably cope better than most people on here with the worst possible outcome. at the end of the day, nothing brings me more joy that watching people with their expensive boat trying to load in crab pots and swearing when they gently tap the side and leave the tiniest scratch as i go full tilt into the mangroves in my $600 hunk of crap not caring what happens to it. anywho, back on topic, i think i may have posted early on in this thread that i agreed with the choice of the gt2 over the r35. for me the r35 is just a mass production supercar, and that's where i find it lacking to things like the porsche. while the porsche isn't much better in that reguard, it still maintains somewhat of an exclusivity about it. it's like nissan built a car to be good on paper. they built a car that appeals to the kind of people who buy a car based of what it can do on paper. that isn't to take anything away from the marvelous car that the gtr is, but to me it is too cold and clinical and doesn't have the emotion that other supercars do. for me the r35 doesn't get the bloody flowing like other supercars do. for me other supercars have something about them that gets to some primal part of you and makes you ignore all other flaws that the car may have, even if there is lots of them. sure it may be different actually driving one, but i wouldn't actually go out of my way to drive a r35 compared to other supercars if i was in the market to buy one. i would actually take much more inferior cars for a drive before taking a r35 for a drive.

no, i was simply meaning that she has been on here for a while, and i'm sure plenty of people have already said hello, and since this is her official hello thread, i was saying hello officially

if you are going to spend that amount of money, get an older NA sr20 and do it up. that way you will have a good engine and be putting out more power than a basic s15 NA. the s15 NA's only put out about 3kw more than an s14 and 11kw more than an s13. get a s14 NA and get a set of tomei poncams (or get the stock cams ground to autech specs), and a nistune, and if you really feel like it you could shave the head on it. but just with the cams and the nistune you should be seeing up around 110kw at the wheels, maybe a touch more, and have something that is very drivable and reliable. that should set you back roughly 2.5k including buying the engine. if you are only going to keep it while you are on your p's then reliability isn't going to be that much of an issue, as any issue you have is more than likely going to be from abusive driving and could happen to the s15 motor or the older one. how much of the history of the s15 do you know? just because it is a newer motor doesn't mean that it might not have had the crap flogged out of it. another thing to try would be to try and find a NA sr20VE from a pulsar bluebird or whatever they came out of. sure they are a fwd motor but shouldn't take much to put into a rwd car (pretty sure the bellhousing is the same) and then you will really make some power. not hard to get 150kw out of those bad boys.

red, der!!! ahahaha, der is red backwards, LOL ok so small penises amuse small minds

also a 3" system on a NA car will be loud. like police hear you from 3 suburbs away and greet you with their night stick wrapped in course sand paper the give you a good reaming loud. as for the ideal size, either 2.25" or 2.5" at the biggest would be good. unless he plans on doing track work, etc where he will be spending lots of time at high RPM he won't really notice the difference between 2.25" and 2.5". to put it into perspective, a 4.0L falcon uses a 2.25" system as stock and 2.5" as a sports exhaust. so if they can flow enough air to work on a 4L engine reving to around 5000rpm, they should be fine on a 2.5L engine reving to around 7000rpm, as from an airflow point of view there isn't that much difference

not only will you need the pistons, but you will want to get the cams as well as they are different/better on the NA. if you have a 3" exhaust system, you will also want to go back to a smaller size for 2 reasons. 1: 3" is way to big for a NA 2.0L and you may lose power. 2: 3" on a NA 2.0L will be loud as hell. i have a SSS pulsar with a 2" system and with only 1 muffler it was as loud as hell. with 2 mufflers it's not too bad. but a 3" system even with 2 mufflers would be asking to be bent over as the cops will hear you coming from a mile away. also, your car will still be registered as a turbo if it was turbo from factory, so there is a good chance you will still get bent over and fisted by the long arm of the law (reguardless of what the dept of transport tell you as half of them don't know what the hell they are on about). also price wise, getting a complete engine is going to be much cheaper and much easier, and more than likely perform better. you would be better off selling the engine you have and buying a complete engine, reguardless of what your reasons are for wanting to convert the s15 engine. it isn't what you wanted to hear, but each time i go and check my lotto tickets they don't tell me what i want to hear either. sometimes you just gotta accept the facts.

it could be your bov opening slightly and causing the squeal. it could also be a boost leak somewhere, or possibly an exhaust leak. it doesn't sound like a belt slipping does it?

not really no. finding one that fits is going to be better than making that one fit dodgily.

ok i think there has been enough formalities in this thread, we can turn it into a quest for pics now

dunno about that. i just did it then after posting the post before this. only have to enter in a few details. took all of about 1 min from when i googled qld transport to when i confirmed the order. once i got the to qld transport website i just searched "sticker" and "replacement certificate/label" was the second result. click that, have your licence number ready and you are about 20 seconds from having it processed. just make sure you click that you want a new certificate/label and not just certificate, otherwise all you will get is the certificate and no label. i ordered a new label because mine is doing what pretty much every other brown label i have seen is doing and not sticking.

gotta love qld transport. glad it is as bad everywhere. i went in last monday morning. got there at just before 9 and there was 6 people in front of me. took me about 10 mins to get served. i spent about 10 mins being served (was getting my boat licence sorted and registering my boat) and when i left there was probably 30 people in there.

where's the "i consider it to be a waste of money but will be massively popular because apple fans will buy ANYTHING new apple brings out because they are nerds and would would buy a steaming pile of dogshit if apple released it"

forget outside air temp. don't even bother posting about it again. get yourself a water temp gauge and see what it is doing. i've seen cars boil on cool days before, so outside temp has very little to do with what your engine temp is doing if you have a failing cooling system, and that seems to be what you are ignoring. i once had an issue with the cluth fan on my 33 screaming on mid 30 degree days. even at night when the temp would drop down to mid to high 20's it would still be roaring. i put a temp gauge in and discovered that it was running at around 95 to 97 degrees and that was the cause of the fan going. then it was just a case of finding the cause of the high temp, which seemed to be the water pump. and everyones fan is going to kick in at different temps due to different cars cooling systems working at different effeciencies due to things like thermostat age, radiator condition, frant bar design, and then other things like driving style

pretty much as above, but it comes down to what your budget is. are you planning on going (sort of) all out and spending 4 or 5k on the project to do it properly (bigger afm and injectors, ecu, etc), or do you simply just want to bolt the turbo on and do it for as cheap as possible? also what power are you chasing?

and that is the only reason why the veilside kit looks any good on it.

welcome to sau (officially)

the thermostat is needed at all times to make the car run properly. running without it can actually cause overheating issues, as weird as it sounds, if you are driving it hard. it will also cause you to use much more fuel not having it in as it will take you car much longer to heat up and on the highway the temp can drop back down to where the car is on cold temp enrichment. to explain that a bit better, when the car is cold the ecu makes the car run a bit richer than when it is at operating temp. it is basically like having the choke on on an engine that does have fuel injection.

it could still be the factory one, but you will find that the replacement one will look pretty much identical. it would be worth replacing either way just to rule it out. sounds a bit weird that it is only doing it at light load. could also be an AFM issue, o2 sensor, AAC valve issue.

maybe you should fit it with a cow catcher like what the trains used to have